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> 914-6 setting timing, How do you get to it?
bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 06:54 PM
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This may seem stupid.. But, I went to check the timing, and I can't get to it. The timing marks are right up against the firewall. So, is there some trick to it? And, I hope you don't have to crawl under a running car to get to it...

-- brett
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Jeffs9146
post Sep 26 2012, 06:58 PM
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Is it a stock 6?? Take off the air cleaner if it is and you should be able to get to the mark on the flywheel!!

My FI 3.0L is a bit tough but once I get the light in it works fine!! I found that it is easier if you have a time
ing light with an adjustable advance so you can set it and find the line easier!


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ArtechnikA
post Sep 26 2012, 07:18 PM
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QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 08:54 PM) *

The timing marks are right up against the firewall.

Ahh - no.
There are TDC marks on the crankshaft pulley, but they are intended to be used when setting valve lash.

The _timing_ marks, which include TDC and 35º BTDC, are on the _flywheel_ and are visible through a notch in the bellhousing.
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bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 07:21 PM
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It's a 2.7l. I can't tell from the photo, where you angle in from, andwhere to sight onthe timing mark.

thanks for the response!

--brett
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bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 07:23 PM
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QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Sep 26 2012, 06:18 PM) *

QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 08:54 PM) *

The timing marks are right up against the firewall.

Ahh - no.
There are TDC marks on the crankshaft pulley, but they are intended to be used when setting valve lash.

The _timing_ marks, which include TDC and 35º BTDC, are on the _flywheel_ and are visible through a notch in the bellhousing.



ahhh. (smacking my forehead). The picture in my book, showed the pulley.

thanks!

-- brett
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bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 07:25 PM
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Which brings on another question... I have a 2.7l, with cis converted to megasquirt. The spec shows 5 atdc initial and 38 total. Is this what I should be using?

--brett



QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 06:23 PM) *

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Sep 26 2012, 06:18 PM) *

QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 08:54 PM) *

The timing marks are right up against the firewall.

Ahh - no.
There are TDC marks on the crankshaft pulley, but they are intended to be used when setting valve lash.

The _timing_ marks, which include TDC and 35º BTDC, are on the _flywheel_ and are visible through a notch in the bellhousing.



ahhh. (smacking my forehead). The picture in my book, showed the pulley.

thanks!

-- brett

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sixnotfour
post Sep 26 2012, 07:29 PM
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If you have a 2.7 with a 2.0 -6 flywheel the timing marks will be off on the flywheel.
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ArtechnikA
post Sep 26 2012, 07:34 PM
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QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 09:25 PM) *

Which brings on another question... I have a 2.7l, with cis converted to megasquirt. The spec shows 5 atdc initial and 38 total.

Well, yes, that's another question, but it is not the essential question.
The essential question is: are you sure you've got a 914/6 flywheel?
'Cause 911 flywheels don't have timing marks on the flywheel...
If you're using a 911 flywheel, it's smart to put the timing marks there before mating the transmission, using a known TDC and a degree wheel.

I can't really answer the rest, but I expect it will depend on whether or not you are using the stock distributor and have appropriate vacuum sources for whatever it needs. And there's a few different kinds of 2,7's with different cams. 38 sounds like a lot, but I don't know if you're expecting this to run on pump gas, and of what octane. Or your altitude. I used to run a lot of advance in the ur-GTI - but I lived at 6000 feet. Makes a difference.
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Jeffs9146
post Sep 26 2012, 07:53 PM
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Mine is a 3.0L 911 and it has marks on the flywheel!

The photo is to the back at the flywheel!
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Jeffs9146
post Sep 26 2012, 07:53 PM
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Double post from droid!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Sorry!
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bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 08:03 PM
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PO did the conversion, so, there are a lot of unknowns. I am unsure of what flywheel, or cams, or disty that are in the car. Suppose to be modified e cams, whatever that means. :'(. And the disty is also in question.

the whole reason I am doing this exercise, si that the hp is off. I dyno'd the car and it only made 110 at the wheels. Ackkk. Compression is 160 on all cylindrs. Fuel is right where it should be. Used a wideband o2. So, the only thing left is ignition and cams.

thanks again for the inputs.

-- brett







QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Sep 26 2012, 06:34 PM) *

QUOTE(bfrymire @ Sep 26 2012, 09:25 PM) *

Which brings on another question... I have a 2.7l, with cis converted to megasquirt. The spec shows 5 atdc initial and 38 total.

Well, yes, that's another question, but it is not the essential question.
The essential question is: are you sure you've got a 914/6 flywheel?
'Cause 911 flywheels don't have timing marks on the flywheel...
If you're using a 911 flywheel, it's smart to put the timing marks there before mating the transmission, using a known TDC and a degree wheel.

I can't really answer the rest, but I expect it will depend on whether or not you are using the stock distributor and have appropriate vacuum sources for whatever it needs. And there's a few different kinds of 2,7's with different cams. 38 sounds like a lot, but I don't know if you're expecting this to run on pump gas, and of what octane. Or your altitude. I used to run a lot of advance in the ur-GTI - but I lived at 6000 feet. Makes a difference.

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mskala
post Sep 26 2012, 08:23 PM
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I don't know of any early engines that would spec 38 degrees. The 911T/914-6 used 35, but all the others were lower. You will need to really find out what the cams are, both to figure out the best advance curve as well as to find out if the guy timed the cams properly. There are folks on the Pelican 911 board that will be able to advise you if you can determine what the parts are in your engine.
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bfrymire
post Sep 26 2012, 11:31 PM
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Thanks. I will try and determine which cam I have.

-- brett


QUOTE(mskala @ Sep 26 2012, 07:23 PM) *

I don't know of any early engines that would spec 38 degrees. The 911T/914-6 used 35, but all the others were lower. You will need to really find out what the cams are, both to figure out the best advance curve as well as to find out if the guy timed the cams properly. There are folks on the Pelican 911 board that will be able to advise you if you can determine what the parts are in your engine.

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IronHillRestorations
post Sep 27 2012, 07:30 AM
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Timing is probably more like 28 or 32 degrees total advance, and you want to set the timing at full advance.

Your best bet is going to be to rotate the engine so you can see the timing mark on the front pulley line up(with a mirror) and then make a paint mark on the flywheel, then use the mark on the flywheel to set the timing with the engine running.

This is also why some guys cut an access hole in the firewall right in front of the fan pulley.
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Jeffs9146
post Sep 27 2012, 08:40 AM
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QUOTE(9146986 @ Sep 27 2012, 06:30 AM) *

Timing is probably more like 28 or 32 degrees total advance, and you want to set the timing at full advance.

Your best bet is going to be to rotate the engine so you can see the timing mark on the front pulley line up(with a mirror) and then make a paint mark on the flywheel, then use the mark on the flywheel to set the timing with the engine running.

This is also why some guys cut an access hole in the firewall right in front of the fan pulley.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
But you have to make sure you are at TDC on the #1 cylinder!
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GeorgeRud
post Sep 27 2012, 09:54 PM
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When I did the conversion on my car, I initially used a cup-type flywheel with the 901 transmission, and the engraved marks on the flywheel were not lined up with the crank pulley. Obviously, there is a difference in the way the crankshafts key the flywheel position between the original 2.0 engine and the 2.7.

Use the crankshaft pulley marks and some whiteout (it seems to show up best IMHO) to make the corresponding marks on the flywheel for TDC and 35 BTDC.
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brant
post Sep 27 2012, 10:45 PM
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if the car is running well, you are not going to pick up 40hp by timing... maybe 5hp

(over extend your reach and you will destroy the motor, so caution and race gas are your friends during this quest)


a hole in the firewall is easiest
or a mirror and timing light can work
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