Pictures of Body Dimension X Measurement Points |
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Pictures of Body Dimension X Measurement Points |
cary |
Jan 25 2014, 02:24 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I was wondering if any one has pictures of exactly where to measure body dimension X. Targa bar to windshield frame.
This car was a front clip repair back in the beginning of its life. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=2&t=187546 If it needs to be tweaked, now is the time. TIA for the help ........................ |
r_towle |
Jan 25 2014, 02:32 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,699 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Look at the link up top right of the page named 914info.
All the body dimensions are there |
cary |
Jan 25 2014, 02:42 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Got that ...............
Kind of vague exactly where to measure. Targa bar is pretty easy. The windshield frame there are 2 or 3 points that could qualify. |
mrbubblehead |
Jan 25 2014, 03:24 PM
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#4
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
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cary |
Jan 25 2014, 03:41 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Ok I give you some help ...........
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nathansnathan |
Jan 25 2014, 03:50 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
It's hard to get a good measurement by yourself, but if I put it about there, the other side of the tape measure, I can touch the end of the catch on the corner of the targa bar, so I'd say the tip of the inner. There's no trim on my car or rubber, so just the steel, I'm measuring from. -I think that's how you do that one. That's like the easiest one though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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cary |
Jan 25 2014, 04:17 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Perfect ................ that's what I thought.
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SLITS |
Jan 25 2014, 04:30 PM
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#8
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Shame, shame ... the tape is not metric.
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rick 918-S |
Jan 25 2014, 04:59 PM
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#9
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,841 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
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mrbubblehead |
Jan 25 2014, 07:34 PM
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#10
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
Shame, shame ... the tape is not metric. Have you tried to find a good metric tape measure lately? I've checked all the local places. Vanished! i got a nice starrett from mcmaster carr (i think) might have even been ebay. it wasnt more than 10 or 15 bucks either. its not very big tho. |
cary |
Jan 25 2014, 09:34 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I built a gadget to measure by yourself.
$8 for the metal strap and a couple nails. Looks like I'm off by 1/8". I think I'll wait till I get it back on its wheels before I tinker with it. Thoughts? |
rick 918-S |
Jan 26 2014, 03:31 PM
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#12
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,841 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
After your pm I went back and reviewed your build thread. You have quite the project on your hands.
I noticed you sectioned the "A" pillar including the lower hinge mount. At this point I would suggest checking the door fit. 914's are a challenge because of their welded chassis. Unlike American iron that could be shimmed. I understand you had both longs out at the same time. You should have supported the car by the shock and strut mounts to prevent sag in the cowl or rear clip. Maybe you did.. In any event that's one of the things you will want to consider going forward. If I were you I would start there. Build some type of support. Wood works or metal. what ever you have. Level it and make a provision to adjust it. Whether it be a small bottle jack or acme thread. Just something that will allow the weight to come off the base of the "A" pillar and the base of the door latch pillar. Next I would check your "H" measurement. This may give you a sense of whether your cowl is sagged. Once you have recorded that measurement move onto the "F" measurement. Here is a set of braces I made for Ben's 6. You need to install some kind of a brace and leave it in place until your done welding. Here is the upper position. I used the targa top cover latch bolt holes as a mounting location. Here is the lower mount. I used drill screws to attach it to a section of the long that is solid. The bolt that holds the pipe also passes through the all thread. The nuts push the pipe and act as an extension to correct sag. I adjusted this chassis 1/8 of an inch before I cut anything out of the car. I have seen guys use turn buckles but they tend to deflect and not hold an accurate measurement. Once you have this set then re-fit the doors and check your hinge mount fit on your "A" pillar. Check your fit to the fender and then finally the quarter panel gap. Once you have the doors in place check your "X" measurement last. This will be strongly effected by your "F" measurement. "F" first then "X" |
CptTripps |
Jan 26 2014, 04:35 PM
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#13
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:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Great tip Rick. I agree that the turnbuckle routs seems the best, but they do stretch out and deflect.
Also, Ace Hardware has a tape with SAE/Metric on it. I picked one up yesterday. :-) |
rick 918-S |
Jan 26 2014, 04:40 PM
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#14
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,841 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Great tip Rick. I agree that the turnbuckle routs seems the best, but they do stretch out and deflect. Also, Ace Hardware has a tape with SAE/Metric on it. I picked one up yesterday. :-) Damn it! I didn't try Ace! I have one a couple blocks away. I can't find the three I own. Kids... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
cary |
Jan 26 2014, 05:55 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Thanks for the guidance.
I'll get it lowered from the 2 post lift tomorrow. No suspension, so we'll MacGyver something after we get it leveled on the floor. I think I'm OK on the sag. It was always supported on all 4 outside corners. Screw jack under the rotisserie hanger. We'll see. I never had it supported under the "A" pillar. I used that as my adjustment point for installing the longs. On the lift ............... Supported with this frame. On the lift ............ "F" is perfect on the right where I haven't finished the inner rocker install. UNSPRUNG "F" on the left is 25 1/16. UNSPRUNG. I can push it out to 25 1/8, but springs back. Not enough threads on the Hiem joint to push it out far enough to adjust. I'll report back tomorrow night after I get it on the floor, on jackstands. Here's the other guidance I'm using. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...03941&st=50 http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...75069&st=25 I have both a big and little Porta Power so I should be OK. |
rick 918-S |
Jan 26 2014, 06:03 PM
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#16
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,841 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
The screw jacks are nice.
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cary |
Jan 27 2014, 08:53 AM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The doors have been braced from the get go.
We just built them so we could leave the door on too. Heres the before ............ This after we put them behind the door so we could continually check the door fit. |
cary |
Jan 27 2014, 10:27 PM
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#18
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Good day ...................
After pushing the left cowl a bit. Got the 1/16th I was looking for. Both F's are 638mm. Both H's are 1039mm. But the X's, that's another issue. Right window frame to left targa bar is dead on at 1997mm. Left window frame to right targa bar is 2001. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) When they did the front clip they screwed something up. Front gap on the left door is excessive. |
r_towle |
Jan 27 2014, 10:39 PM
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#19
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,699 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I have seen guys weld a bead on the leading edge of a door or use lead in that spot to reduce the gap, and move the door back to make the door latch fit correctly.
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cary |
Jan 27 2014, 10:55 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
That's what I'm thinking too .........................
Weld or All Metal. Tested the top. It should be fine. Not exactly a Willhoit restoration. But I'm starting with an $1100 combination of two cars. LOL. |
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