Replacing rear main seal, What parts along the way can't be reused? Options

[rjames]

I replaced the clutch and flywheel last year and the rear main seal, but it looks like it's leaking again.
As part of the task of removing the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel to get to the seal, what parts can't I use again?

Do I need a new felt washer?
What else?

[Cap'n Krusty]

You'll need the o-ring. Since you're ordering the seal anyway, get the locking washer, too.

The Cap'n

[rjames]

Cap'n, I'm looking at the list of items in Pelican's clutch kit and I don't see a lock washer listed. Are you referring to the 'metal crush gasket' on their list?

Pelican's list of clutch replacement parts:

New Pressure Plate
New 911 Clutch Disc
New Throw-out Bearing
New Pilot Bearing and Felt Ring
2 Throw-out Bearing Guide Clips
New Throw-out Fork Bushing
New Flywheel O-Ring
New Flywheel Bolts
New Flywheel Metal Crush Gasket

[Cap'n Krusty]

Cap'n, I'm looking at the list of items in Pelican's clutch kit and I don't see a lock washer listed. Are you referring to the 'metal crush gasket' on their list?

Pelican's list of clutch replacement parts:

New Pressure Plate
New 911 Clutch Disc
New Throw-out Bearing
New Pilot Bearing and Felt Ring
2 Throw-out Bearing Guide Clips
New Throw-out Fork Bushing
New Flywheel O-Ring
New Flywheel Bolts
New Flywheel Metal Crush Gasket

Yup. They call it that. I call it a lock washer because its function is to allow the barbed ridges on the backside of the flywheel bolts to dig in and lock the bolts in place. Porsche just calls it a washer. In NO WAY does it "crush".

The Cap'n

[rjames]

Cap'n, I'm looking at the list of items in Pelican's clutch kit and I don't see a lock washer listed. Are you referring to the 'metal crush gasket' on their list?

Pelican's list of clutch replacement parts:

New Pressure Plate
New 911 Clutch Disc
New Throw-out Bearing
New Pilot Bearing and Felt Ring
2 Throw-out Bearing Guide Clips
New Throw-out Fork Bushing
New Flywheel O-Ring
New Flywheel Bolts
New Flywheel Metal Crush Gasket

Yup. They call it that. I call it a lock washer because its function is to allow the barbed ridges on the backside of the flywheel bolts to dig in and lock the bolts in place. Porsche just calls it a washer. In NO WAY does it "crush".

The Cap'n

Great, thanks!

Any recommendations on what brand of seal I should use? I put in a Viton last year because of reports that the Ehlring (sp) brand had a bad track record for leaking out of the box.

[MartyYeoman]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[type2man]

Might be transmission front seal leaking. I would tear it down first. I have found that if you run the engine for a few mintutes right before tearing it down, it will be easier to see where the drip is coming from.

[r_towle]

considering the cost of both seals, I would just get both and be ready do install both.

rich

[rjames]

It's not the tranny. I pulled it already and verified.

[Dave_Darling]

Think twice about re-using anything with "gasket" in its name. In particular, if you run gaskets on the CV joints (hey, some don't!) you probably don't want to re-use them. Especially if you wind up having to poke a screwdriver into them to get the CVs off the transmission output flanges.

Transmission linkage cone set-screws (only used in side-shift linkage) are good to replace when you take them out. (I don't always follow this, but I probably should.) The locking nib tends to get mashed into the shape of the thread and not lock as well over a couple of install and remove cycles.

Since you're going to have the linkage apart to pull the trans, consider replacing some or all of the bushings.

If the side shift console is leaking, this would be an opportunity to replace the seal inside of it.

You can clean up your transmission ground points and ground strap, while you're in there.

.... Eventually, you'll wind up with a completely rebuilt car if you keep doing things "while you're in there".... In our world, that is known as DWD, or Dirk Wright's Disease.

--DD

[rjames]

Think twice about re-using anything with "gasket" in its name. In particular, if you run gaskets on the CV joints (hey, some don't!) you probably don't want to re-use them. Especially if you wind up having to poke a screwdriver into them to get the CVs off the transmission output flanges.

Transmission linkage cone set-screws (only used in side-shift linkage) are good to replace when you take them out. (I don't always follow this, but I probably should.) The locking nib tends to get mashed into the shape of the thread and not lock as well over a couple of install and remove cycles.

Since you're going to have the linkage apart to pull the trans, consider replacing some or all of the bushings.

If the side shift console is leaking, this would be an opportunity to replace the seal inside of it.

You can clean up your transmission ground points and ground strap, while you're in there.

.... Eventually, you'll wind up with a completely rebuilt car if you keep doing things "while you're in there".... In our world, that is known as DWD, or Dirk Wright's Disease.

--DD

I wasn't planning in reusing any gaskets or cv washers. Trans was rebuilt last year and at that time put a new clutch in with all new associated parts, including the flywheel. I also did all of the shift bushings.
I've also reused the linkage cone screws without any issues, but I'll replace them just the same. Thanks for the reminder.

I also need to check the end play. I didn't do that when I replaced the flywheel. ( It wasn't listed as part of the procedure in Pelican's clutch article.)

Could too much/little endplay cause the rear main seal to leak?