Christmas in April, Subaru 2.5 NA SOHC 2003 Impreza TS with 5MT Transmission Options

[R_u_dd]

After long deliberation and a lot of research on my Subaru Conversion, I received this engine transmission combination in the mail from Alberta, BC. It's a Naturally aspirated SOHC Subaru 2.5 litre out of an Impreza TS (2003) with 118K miles. I was able to get the transmission and ecu from the same car. The tranny is a 5mt with hydraulic clutch.

I tried the donor car approach on Copart and kept getting outbid for what I wanted to pay. In the end I went direct on ebay so I could get the exact engine year I wanted and I did not have a hulk sitting in the driveway for the neighbors to look at. I paid more than I wanted ($1,574 with shipping) to but in the end , you get what you pay for.

Related Threads: Decision to Subarize or not to Subarize

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The plan is to change the head gaskets, check the condition of the clutch, and convert the transmission to front wheel drive. Any other suggestions on the engine? Anyone know it that's a push or pull style clutch? Looks like a push from the photo.

Ian, I will be needing your help once you are up and running.

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[Chris H.]

Looks great. That's not a bad deal really if it included shipping. The timing belt is probably due...It's not hard. If you're doing the head gaskets you have to take it off anyway. Might as well replace it.

That looks like a push clutch to me, just like mine. BTW don't be fooled into thinking you need to match the clutch MC and slave sizes. You have a 3/4 slave...but you DO NOT want a 3/4 master unless you have really strong legs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Kent and I have already learned that one. 5/8 is the way to go. We used Honda Civic MC's. The 3/4 master was too stiff.

[Mueller]

Nice score...I have to quit looking at all of the Subaru and Weber threads...makes me want to combine the 2....!

[Bob L.]

Nice score...I have to quit looking at all of the Subaru and Weber threads...makes me want to combine the 2....!

Everyone knows you can't "weberize" a Suby. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[JRust]

I have my clutch cable running around the back & up, So didn't use the hydrolic setup at all. Works just fine for mine with the NA 2.5 SOHC. If you don't plan to use the a/c I'd be interested in your compressor & mount (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Good score overall on the drivetrain. They are a great setup in a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[R_u_dd]

I have my clutch cable running around the back & up, So didn't use the hydrolic setup at all. Works just fine for mine with the NA 2.5 SOHC. If you don't plan to use the a/c I'd be interested in your compressor & mount (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Good score overall on the drivetrain. They are a great setup in a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I'd like to see a picture of your cable to clutch setup. Do you have the original pedal cluster as well? I would assume that if Subaru went to hydraulic, it would be smoother and take less force to make it work? Probably a lot more complicated though.

PM me about the AC compressor.

[R_u_dd]

Looks great. That's not a bad deal really if it included shipping. The timing belt is probably due...It's not hard. If you're doing the head gaskets you have to take it off anyway. Might as well replace it.

That looks like a push clutch to me, just like mine. BTW don't be fooled into thinking you need to match the clutch MC and slave sizes. You have a 3/4 slave...but you DO NOT want a 3/4 master unless you have really strong legs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Kent and I have already learned that one. 5/8 is the way to go. We used Honda Civic MC's. The 3/4 master was too stiff.

How did you make the hydraulic clutch work with the pedal cluster?

So, timing belt, head gaskets, water pump. Anything else? I will probably take a chance that I won't need a rebuild.

[JRust]

Basically turned it into a pull with it looping around back. Then a bracket the cable bolts too. From there just through the clutch fork & uses the stock pedal cluster. It is a little on the stiff side. That can be changed with a little bigger throw on the arm. Hydrolic is a great way to go. I'd considered changing that out when I upgrade to my WRX turbo motor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[worn]

So, its a white Christmas here. Snow flurries past two days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[R_u_dd]

So, its a white Christmas here. Snow flurries past two days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Spring weather here. Wish we had more snow though. We are going to have some bad fires this summer.

[Chris H.]

Looks great. That's not a bad deal really if it included shipping. The timing belt is probably due...It's not hard. If you're doing the head gaskets you have to take it off anyway. Might as well replace it.

That looks like a push clutch to me, just like mine. BTW don't be fooled into thinking you need to match the clutch MC and slave sizes. You have a 3/4 slave...but you DO NOT want a 3/4 master unless you have really strong legs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Kent and I have already learned that one. 5/8 is the way to go. We used Honda Civic MC's. The 3/4 master was too stiff.

How did you make the hydraulic clutch work with the pedal cluster?

So, timing belt, head gaskets, water pump. Anything else? I will probably take a chance that I won't need a rebuild.

Nah...HIGHLY unlikely you'd need a rebuild at 118k for a N/A engine. My EG33 has 140k on it and it's 20 years old. Runs like a steed. No smoke, burns no oil. I resealed my whole engine but it's a lot older than yours. The valve covers were leaking and so was the oil pan. I'm not an expert on the EJ25 but check the condition of the seals and see if you see any leaks. Looks pretty damn clean from here. It's as obvious as a Type 4 if there's a leak.

Re: the clutch setup, IMHO it would be just as hard or harder to fab a cable setup than to do a hydraulic since you have a push clutch and already have the slave in place. I can't take credit for my setup because Kent (76-914) really did the hard work. He made a plate for the pedal cluster which allowed us to mount the Honda Civic Master on the other side of the brake master. Then we just used the stock clutch arm and connected it to the MC, actuating it the opposite way that the cable does. Then we just ran the hydraulic line through the clutch tube (it fits perfectly), and right to the slave cylinder. I can tell you the part #s once you get to that point. Use Aeroquip hose and fittings...it worked well for us. Kent measured the plate and the measurements are in his build thread.

Take a look at this, starting with post 486 which explains how we started with the 3/4 and then went to the Honda setup.

Kent's build thread

If you decide to go this way let me know and I can tell you exactly what we ended up using for the reservoir, MC, hoses, fittings, etc.

[DBCooper]

Nice score...I have to quit looking at all of the Subaru and Weber threads...makes me want to combine the 2....!

Everyone knows you can't "weberize" a Suby. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

Or why anyone would WANT to:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i53.photobucket.com-2618-1429762429.1.jpg)

[Stacks914]

Nice man are you fabricating your own engine cradle?

[R_u_dd]

Nice man are you fabricating your own engine cradle?

I would rather not fab the cradle. I like Ian's design if I can get one from him. The smallcar design is also good. A little cheaper but looks like it needs more work because it's designed for a vanagan. The other possibility is renegade hybrids but I'm not sure what their cradle looks like.

Not sure I trust my welding and fabricating skills to make my own. I could see myself driving down the road some day and the engine falls out the back...

[mgp4591]

The cable setup that jrust and rnellums have is really pretty slick and requires less fab work than the hydraulic setup, but if you're already halfway there... Another idea since you're replacing the head gaskets is to tear the heads down and do a little good ol' fashioned porting work. Port matching, unshrouding valve pockets and removing unneeded casting flashing all adds up to one of the cheapest bang for buck mods you can do, especially since you're over half way there. Shop around the good engine shops for price or maybe a talented friend who gets really thirsty now and then. Worth the effort in my mind!

[R_u_dd]

The cable setup that jrust and rnellums have is really pretty slick and requires less fab work than the hydraulic setup, but if you're already halfway there... Another idea since you're replacing the head gaskets is to tear the heads down and do a little good ol' fashioned porting work. Port matching, unshrouding valve pockets and removing unneeded casting flashing all adds up to one of the cheapest bang for buck mods you can do, especially since you're over half way there. Shop around the good engine shops for price or maybe a talented friend who gets really thirsty now and then. Worth the effort in my mind!

Thanks for the advice. I am guessing that porting increases airflow and horsepower. How much is the question? Might as well put some headers on as well.

[AndyB]

Nice score. I never got out bid on erepairables. That's probably why there was no competition. My only engine upgrade will br the dames since I also have the SOHC.

Andy

[r_towle]

Nice score...I have to quit looking at all of the Subaru and Weber threads...makes me want to combine the 2....!

Everyone knows you can't "weberize" a Suby. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

Or why anyone would WANT to:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i53.photobucket.com-2618-1429762429.1.jpg)

I would quickly step up to that challenge.

I wonder how well they run off just webers....

If I go this subaru way (Mike) I am going turbo....I dont see any fun in not doing a turbo....

rich

[Bob L.]

[/quote]


....I dont see any fun in not doing a turbo....

rich
[/quote]

Even if it's a -6?

[R_u_dd]

[quote name='Bob L.' date='Apr 23 2015, 02:10 PM' post='2177810']
[/quote]


....I dont see any fun in not doing a turbo....

rich
[/quote]

Even if it's a -6?
[/quote]

From what I have read 165 hp is a nice balance of power for the 914. I considered a 6, but for a number of resasons decided to go with the 2.5 NA. There's lots of options down the road I might try later.