Clutch tube repair, Tips Options

[BeemerSteve]

I have the daunting job of clearing out my interior and cutting my tunnel open to repair the clutch tube. Does anyone have tips on doing this job? Do the fuel lines need to be taken out? Humm.......maybe I should if they're still plastic.

I appreciate all your wisdom as I'm trying to gain some on my own. Thanks!!

Steve

[TheCabinetmaker]

Tube can be accessed and sometimes repaired through the shifter opening without cutting the tunnel. It's possible to remove shifter with out disturbing the rod

[Spoke]

Here's a write-up of how I repaired my clutch tube. It was basically free of any supporting material when I started the repair.

Clutch Tube Repair

[Bruce Hinds]

The right way of course is to cut it open and weld it up and make a big project out of it. On the other hand, you can make a nice little bracket to put in under the shifter to hold it in place. Not the best repair but it works.

Sorry no pics, I did it too many years ago.

[sean_v8_914]

remove fuel lines at engine or at firewall (depends on what you have there after 40 years of creative mechanics)
drain tank then and plug lines with 8mm bolt.
add 1qt water to tank (no, its not going to harn anything)
remove shift rod and shifter

[sean_v8_914]

there are 3 attachement points
all must be addressed if firewall is ripped
1. forward of shifter hole about 4 inches on the left wall of the tunnel
2. about 10 inches forward of fire wall. this bracket hangs from teh top of the tunnel
3. where the clutch tube exits the firewall

i go in from the bottom. its cleaner that way

[sean_v8_914]

it the tube is loose but the firewall is still OK this means the middle bracket is still intact. the front bracket is the first to break.

in this case i weld a 1"x1" L-bracket to the tube. this minor solution is quick . you only have to remove the shifter and dont need to mess with fuel ines. i still stuff a wet rag against them just in case


did i mention remove clutch cable...

[sean_v8_914]

before we get carried away, lets see some photos of the firewall

[sean_v8_914]

next time yall cut access panels, clean the metal on both sides of the cut line prior to cutting. easier than after its cut. only cut 3 sides. just score the 4th side and it will bend clean and return to original position to weld iit closed

[JeffBowlsby]

No need to remove the fuel lines, just wrap them in a wet towel when welding.

So which of the three attachments is broken? If its just the front one then no need to cut anything, just a couple plug welds to hold the guide tube to the tunnel sidewall:

[BeemerSteve]

Wow!! Thanks you guys! Now I have lots to chew on after I clear the interior stuff out of the way.
I'm having difficulty with posting pictures but will try to figure that out soon.

Thanks again, much appreciated!

[76-914]

next time yall cut access panels, clean the metal on both sides of the cut line prior to cutting. easier than after its cut. only cut 3 sides. just score the 4th side and it will bend clean and return to original position to weld iit closed

I like that approach, Sean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[cary]

next time yall cut access panels, clean the metal on both sides of the cut line prior to cutting. easier than after its cut. only cut 3 sides. just score the 4th side and it will bend clean and return to original position to weld iit closed

I like that approach, Sean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

I was thinking the same thing. Nice work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[PancakePorsche]

Mine too broke and was good at the firewall. I made a clamshell bracket for the front which was installed using one bolt and did not require any cutting of tunnel. All was done thru shifter opening. Still working good.

Good reason to to properly lube and maintain your clutch cable to prevent this from occurring in the first place. A dry cable housing causes excessive load on the tube.

[jsaum]

There is a good write up in the classic threads on the tube repair with pictures and on the Pelican site tech info section they have some good pictures of the center tunnel. I did mine had to replace the entire tube it wasn't that bad.


Jsaum

[BeemerSteve]

Mine too broke and was good at the firewall. I made a clamshell bracket for the front which was installed using one bolt and did not require any cutting of tunnel. All was done thru shifter opening. Still working good.

Good reason to to properly lube and maintain your clutch cable to prevent this from occurring in the first place. A dry cable housing causes excessive load on the tube.

Did you by chance take any pictures? I'd be curious to see how you did it.

[sean_v8_914]

i have had to replace the entire tube on a few
this is currently to most common 914 weld job for 2015
i think they will all break . the
l bracket under the shifter is so quick and easy. i can do it with the clutch cable in place but many have welded the inner cable to the tube (hearse )

[Dr Evil]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

[BeemerSteve]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

Thanks for confirming that approach because I thought about that idea as well. Since this car has lots-o-rust and the mechanical components will be the donor I will only need a temp fix for this anyway.

Most all parts will be moved over to a 1973 2.0 tub that has very little if any rust as it sat in a garage awaiting a failed v8 swap. The tub only has 60k mikes on and sat for almost 30 years.

I will be contacting you for a 901 rebuild this year too. Thanks!

[barefoot]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

Second that, here's mine, i did a little blacksmithing on the conduit clamp to get the correct radius size, my 3/8 socket extension has just the right radius, for an anvil