3.0 /6 in storage the case is filing with oil, and starting to leak on the floor. |
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3.0 /6 in storage the case is filing with oil, and starting to leak on the floor. |
Mark Henry |
Dec 26 2019, 12:51 PM
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#1
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
So my '74 /6 conversion with the DWD sump tank is slowly leaking down into the engine sump. I have a leaking #6 rocker shaft that I'll have to R&R so I know my engine is full to at least to the exhaust rockers. I know it doesn't drain enough to do this if I drive at least weekly. I have a buddy who's well worn engine has hydrolocked a few times due to this.
I had to start and move the car, quite the smoke show. Only automatic cure I've seen so far is a $300 valve from Rothsport. Or I could just install a ball valve and red tag my dash for just over $20. I know it's a common 911 issue, do you other /6 owners have this issue and what do you do about it? |
brant |
Dec 26 2019, 01:12 PM
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#2
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,824 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I just drain the oil each time I move the car from the trailer to the garage.... never leaks that way
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Superhawk996 |
Dec 26 2019, 01:25 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,598 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Only logical solution is to drive it daily. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) But being in Ontario, you have the same problem as me . . . Winter.
Worn(ish) oil pump gears won't help but honestly even perfectly new gears will still bypass oil over time. A long time ago I worked on suspension project that used hydraulics to control vehicle ride height. The project was eventually cancelled because over time, hydraulic fluid would eventually leak past the closed orifice valves and the vehicle would go unlevel. Imagine coming home from a 3 week vacation and finding your vehicle at the airport listing to one side like a sinking ship. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Of course it would level out upon start up but it sure looked stupid! Even super precision control valves (i.e. high $$) still leaked, they only slowed the rate of leakage. The project was doomed financially due to the cost of the control valves and the inability to find an economical valve that wouldn't leak over extended periods of time. I don't think there is a total solution. I would expect the anti-drainback valve to leak down over time too. It would just be a whole lot longer periof of time. This is the crux of a dry sump, especially one with the tank above the engine. I'll be watching this one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
sixnotfour |
Dec 26 2019, 01:34 PM
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#4
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,681 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
your pretty handy , the Porsche part is $125, needs some creativity = time=$$
https://www.911partsdirect.com/shop/996-99-...-metzger-motor/ Im going to use a in hand manual ball valve..my Tank is even higher in the rear trunk...maybe this 12 volt.. Everyday driver for yrs no problem, Instaled in another 14 sits alot,,and its an experience to start... although it doesnt smoke much . https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-...rial&sr=1-2 Attached image(s) |
jd74914 |
Dec 26 2019, 03:22 PM
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#5
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,818 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
A long time ago I worked on suspension project that used hydraulics to control vehicle ride height. The project was eventually cancelled because over time, hydraulic fluid would eventually leak past the closed orifice valves and the vehicle would go unlevel. Imagine coming home from a 3 week vacation and finding your vehicle at the airport listing to one side like a sinking ship. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Of course it would level out upon start up but it sure looked stupid! You mean people didn't like the Citroen DS look? I have a coworker who drives a DS21 almost daily in the winter ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) I know-his summer car is a Saab 96 with something like 750k on it) and always loved watching it pump back up from "low position." your pretty handy , the Porsche part is $125, needs some creativity = time=$$ https://www.911partsdirect.com/shop/996-99-...-metzger-motor/ Im going to use a in hand manual ball valve..my Tank is even higher in the rear trunk...maybe this 12 volt.. Everyday driver for yrs no problem, Instaled in another 14 sits alot,,and its an experience to start... although it doesnt smoke much . https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-...rial&sr=1-2 I'm not a huge fan of adding the check valve in the top link. You're adding an "undetectable" failure point, especially in terms of partial open failures. Strong opinion to follow but...absolutely do not use a motorized ball valve. I have not found a motorized ball valves under ~$1500 that doesn't suck (after over a decade of dealing this these kind of components). Eventually they all fail and to be safe you have to watch them-at that point you might as well have a manual ball valve and lock-out tag-out like your original idea. I would never buy one without position feedback that would prevent the car from starting on event of a non-open. Not worth it. My dad's 911 sits a lot too. We've resigned to letting it smoke on startup and kinda cough to life. |
Superhawk996 |
Dec 26 2019, 03:59 PM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,598 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
You mean people didn't like the Citroen DS look? @JD74914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) It was the early 2000's and as young engineers we thought we certainly could solve the Citroen DS problem with "modern" valves and a less complex hydraulic system. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Agree completely to not use motorized valve without position feedback. They all fail eventually in whatever position you don't want. |
porschetub |
Dec 26 2019, 05:01 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,754 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
I haven't had this issue but mine is a baby "six",the larger motors have more oil for what is most likely not a much larger crankcase than mine...maybe that's the reason,I run 9 litres and have found that is ok with a stock oil tank but no front cooler.
In my case the oil pressure comes up very quickly on cranking so can only presume the excess (drain back) of oil is being returned to the tank as quickly. Perhaps a ignition remote shutoff would help so you crank for a while extra and the pump scavenge clears the sump oil before the engine starts if the car has been sitting for a while. |
76-914 |
Dec 26 2019, 08:13 PM
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#8
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,647 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-21...C202&sr=8-5
Horizontal installation only. Approved for water, oil and gas to 150psi. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
jd74914 |
Dec 26 2019, 09:49 PM
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#9
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,818 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supplies-21...C202&sr=8-5 Horizontal installation only. Approved for water, oil and gas to 150psi. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Not really so good when you add acceleration (either lateral or longitudinal depending on what direction you orient it). That’s why it says horizontal installations only because it can’t handle gravity. Swing checks are never really a tight shutoff either. |
thelogo |
Dec 27 2019, 01:35 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,510 Joined: 6-April 10 Member No.: 11,572 Region Association: None |
Almost Every war bird in thd chino planes of fame
Have drip pans for their hydraulics From a p47 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) To f18 /f14 But not the stearmans ... No hydraulics except maybe the prop |
roblav1 |
Dec 27 2019, 07:57 AM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Is yours leaking by through the pressure or scavenge side?
If scavenge, how about something like this?: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-accumula...alve-p-555.html Flapper valve. Those rockers are a pain... just finished mine last night. Am trying those RSR seals this time. |
Bills914-4 |
Dec 27 2019, 08:38 AM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 311 Joined: 1-March 08 From: suburbs of Miami FL. Member No.: 8,762 Region Association: South East States |
Just a thought , what about a electric pump just to scavenge oil out of sump
and pump back to tank ? https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm |
jc73-914 |
Dec 27 2019, 11:48 AM
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#13
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 28-May 15 From: Richmond, B.C. Canada Member No.: 18,769 Region Association: Canada |
what about adding a manual shut off valve to the oil feed line, use it only for prior to long term parking. that should stop oil sipping back into the sump. downside is it needs to be open prior to starting engine.
just a thought (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
injunmort |
Dec 27 2019, 04:13 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,024 Joined: 12-April 10 From: sugarloaf ny Member No.: 11,604 Region Association: North East States |
had this problem on my nortons and indian. they sit, oil runs into the crankcase. I have seen bsa owners put in valve or ball checks, I have also seen what happens when you forget to turn the valve on or the check ball fails. I am good with drip pans and emptying the crank case upon start up. if it sat long enough for oil to drain into case, it will probably need other fettling as well.
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Mark Henry |
Dec 27 2019, 08:48 PM
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#15
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Is yours leaking by through the pressure or scavenge side? If scavenge, how about something like this?: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-accumula...alve-p-555.html Flapper valve. Those rockers are a pain... just finished mine last night. Am trying those RSR seals this time. Feed side, the pump I blueprinted and DFL coated the inner housings, but it's just a pump, nothing the way of a check valve. The rockers I have RSR seals and they still leaked and came loose. Last year I had this issue with #1 and 2 rockers, a buddy sent me an article by CE where they said to install the shafts 100% dry and clean. So far the 1/2 rockers are dry, so a PITA job before next season is to R&R the rest of the rockers. I think I'll add a ball valve for storage when I tackle the rockers. |
gereed75 |
Dec 28 2019, 10:47 AM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,315 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States |
Would That improved racing check valve be a good alternative to the 3x more expensive Rothsport valve (available for slightly less from Wilhoit)?
Can’t quite get my head around what you would need to fit it into a 6 oil feed line - a female fitting that fits the line and then an AN to metric adapter at the other end. By the time you do that you are almost at the price of the Rothsport valve. Anyone have any further experience with that? |
sixnotfour |
Dec 28 2019, 11:42 AM
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#17
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,681 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Would That improved racing check valve be a good alternative to the 3x more expensive Rothsport valve (available for slightly less from Wilhoit)? Can’t quite get my head around what you would need to fit it into a 6 oil feed line - a female fitting that fits the line and then an AN to metric adapter at the other end. By the time you do that you are almost at the price of the Rothsport valve. Anyone have any further experience with that? that check valve has a 1lb opening rate the facory/rothsport is 3lbs,,,and since its a check flapper , you would actually have to install it backwards..... Its the continual flow from the tank is what is trying to be lightly blocked when not running.. ie keeps the oil in the tank..at rest...little to no restriction while running.... Im gonna use the manual ball valve also..mine will be right below trunk floor ,,so the handle can be inside the rear trunk... My setup is kinda odd, But I have a huge front trunk... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
gereed75 |
Dec 29 2019, 12:31 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,315 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States |
Yea after thinking about it more, the improved racing valve is a back flow preventer while the Rothsport valve prevents forward flow at low pressure buts allows full flow with pressure.
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gereed75 |
Dec 29 2019, 12:35 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,315 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States |
Yea after thinking about it more, the improved racing valve is a back flow preventer while the Rothsport valve prevents forward flow at low pressure buts allows full flow with pressure.
Or maybe better described as a check valve with very low opening pressure. |
ConeDodger |
Dec 29 2019, 01:14 AM
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#20
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,853 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
I did the valve, but I got it from Engine Builders Supply. They’re local to me. It was less than $300 though.
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