Stainless fuel line routing: engine bay Options

[rjames]

I’ve installed the 914rubber stainless steel fuel lines on my ‘75. Here’s a pic of how they terminate in the engine bay. No way to connect the feed line to the 3-4 fuel rail with a straight piece of hose. As it is currently I’ll have to create a ‘loop’ with the rubber line to make the connection work without kinking. Anyone else run into this?

[VaccaRabite]

Thats pretty much how it goes.

You can cut the line right after the bend and you get a better hose route for the stock fuel rail.

Otherwise you need to have a little line loop.

Zach

[mepstein]

tangerine racing

[rjames]

Zach thanks for the confirmation. I spent more time last night swapping the steel lines back and forth in the engine bay only to land in the same place as the photo I posted. Cutting the steel line to avoid looping the rubber line is tempting, but then I'd lose the bead that helps keep the rubber line attached, so I guess I'll go with the loop.

Meptstein I think those pieces are just for the early cars that have the fuel pump located in the back.

[Superhawk996]

Couple options for you:

Pretend the fuel line with a piece of rigid wire - inset into boiling water for a couple minutes until the material is heated to temp. Then let cool. The fuel line will hold that shape.

Insert a stainless spring into the ID of the hose to keep it from kinking or collapsing due to the tight radius.

Cut as needed and have someone re-bead it. Beading tools are pricey but you can probably find a fabrication shop with them that would do it for not too much coin.

[rjames]

Couple options for you:

Pretend the fuel line with a piece of rigid wire - inset into boiling water for a couple minutes until the material is heated to temp. Then let cool. The fuel line will hold that shape.

Insert a stainless spring into the ID of the hose to keep it from kinking or collapsing due to the tight radius.

Cut as needed and have someone re-bead it. Beading tools are pricey but you can probably find a fabrication shop with them that would do it for not too much coin.

Thanks for the suggestion. The method you gave for reforming the fuel line works well and is how I made the 'J' pieces for the injectors. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the stainless line terminates almost 1.5"" below the fuel rail inlet which would require one bend up and another bend back down to make the two connect. Easier to just loop it.

The other oddity is that after pouring over fuel line diagrams, it would seem that the supply line is supposed to come up through the engine shelf through the fuel line hole that is closest to the front of the car. However, the stainless lines would have to cross over to achieve that and they then wouldn't fit into the set of plastic clips that hold the lines in place.


I know in the grand scheme of things all that matters is that the lines are hooked up correctly and secured, but I'd still prefer things to be lined up like stock.

I noticed that in Ian's video he was able to install the lines such that the clips that secure the lines are angled at ~45 degree angle where as mine are at 90 degrees. The way the lines fit though, I couldn't see a way to make that happen.


I'll try moving them around a bit more tonight before settling for a 'loop'.

No sense in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) for too long on this one.

[ChrisFoley]

AFAIK, supply line is the bottom one from the factory.
Ian used my lines. You have lines made by Rotary14.
Even with the difference though, mine aren't that easy to connect either.

[Montreal914]

Side question: I seem to recall my car (73) had metal folded tabs to hold the lines, unless that plastic clip was missing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Was the plastic clip an evolution in 74?