Exhaust studs, Anti seize? |
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Exhaust studs, Anti seize? |
Flyinlow |
Jul 26 2024, 06:34 PM
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#1
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Flyinlow Group: Members Posts: 54 Joined: 17-October 20 From: British Columbia, Canada Member No.: 24,774 Region Association: Canada |
Would you recommend using hi- temp anti seize on exhaust studs?
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rfinegan |
Jul 26 2024, 06:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,007 Joined: 8-February 13 From: NC Member No.: 15,499 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I use just a dab on each
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bkrantz |
Jul 26 2024, 07:44 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,042 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I would. But then be prepared for the studs to unscrew when removing the exhaust next time.
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930cabman |
Jul 27 2024, 05:07 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,511 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
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rhodyguy |
Jul 27 2024, 08:46 AM
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#5
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Paint the studs with Milk of Magnesia. Rust bonding is your enemy.
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technicalninja |
Jul 27 2024, 10:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,821 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region |
A member here sells 10mm headed 8 X 1.25 flanged nuts.
They are not lock nuts and they are the ONLY thing I'll use in this application now. Makes it much easier to install/remove. I'd anti-seize both the stud to head and the nut to stud. Having the stud come out of the head during removal is not a big thing IMO. Having one seize and then break is a NIGHTMARE! |
Flyinlow |
Jul 27 2024, 01:44 PM
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#7
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Flyinlow Group: Members Posts: 54 Joined: 17-October 20 From: British Columbia, Canada Member No.: 24,774 Region Association: Canada |
Thanks everyone I’m doing it!
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bkrantz |
Jul 27 2024, 08:04 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,042 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
A member here sells 10mm headed 8 X 1.25 flanged nuts. They are not lock nuts and they are the ONLY thing I'll use in this application now. Makes it much easier to install/remove. I'd anti-seize both the stud to head and the nut to stud. Having the stud come out of the head during removal is not a big thing IMO. Having one seize and then break is a NIGHTMARE! Agreed. And if it has been a while, I would use all new studs--and anti-seize. |
Jack Standz |
Jul 27 2024, 09:13 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 361 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None |
This is what is going on exhaust studs and fasteners going forward:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UENJ2?p...ob_b_asin_title Was using regular antiseize before der Nija mentioned this stuff in another thread. Thx |
technicalninja |
Jul 28 2024, 08:30 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,821 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I always try to use new hardware/studs.
Even on modern junk. 50-year-old stuff... HELL YES! Now, it's easy to buy cheap ass Chinese stuff today... Hardware needs to come from Germany, USA, or Japan. ARP usually makes nice hardware... This is the longest 8mm stuff they list https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=2106 Pricy but comes with UBER 10 mm 12 point headed nuts. Shorter is available in packs of 8. Most of the time studs from a German parts supplier (Pelican/others) will be decent quality at much more budget friendly prices. I have three grades of anti-seize! Copper Aluminum Nickle There's a reason I'm the TECHNICALninja! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif) If I had to buy all of my "shop supplies" at a single time I'd wipe out the shop checkbook! The Copper and Nickle are every 5 years or so. I go through two big bottles of the normal aluminum crap every year! |
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