DIY T-4 head volume CC kit, on the cheap Options

[rfinegan]

I put together some cheep pieces to make a CC kit
I got from amazon but I am sure it can bee done even cheaper> about 10 bucks per kit
FREE shipping too
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGLJ72RY?psc=1&...product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1NBMHWM?psc=1&...product_details

just drill a hole, seal with petroleum jelly and use ATF or Colored washer fluid

I post a video of how I used it soon....

[rfinegan]

I bet you can use this to find the volume of the dish or fly cut on you pistons too...

[technicalninja]

I've got a tip...

Drill two holes!

At either end of the span.

One hole I drill to fit a hypo or burette. The other hole is tiny to release the air.

Slight tilt (little hole up) and the entire process gets easier.

Getting the final bubbles out of a single hole is an exercise in futility...


Using an inexpensive hypodermic over an expensive burette work fine in my book.

It's not AS accurate but at the comp ratio you will be checking (below 13-1) it will be accurate enough.

You will be able to accurately match each chamber to the others using a hypo.

[rfinegan]

^^^^I will try this too... ^^^^

[rfinegan]

Here is a quick video for trying out the new tools
first one # 2 is 58 cc and #1 was at 60cc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THjjnmbzDqk

[rfinegan]

pics
I can see the chamber differences here:

[Montreal914]

What about all the fluid that came out from your breather hole that wasn't accounted for? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Maybe I am over thinking this...

The blobs of excess vaseline are also taking out some of the measured volume, no? Wouldn't it be better to put an even layer of the vaseline on the head instead, to prevent any excess to make its way in the chamber? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[rfinegan]

all valid points...

This video was the Second time I have done this. There will be some technique required to keep the fluid in and get the air out. The bleed hole helps ALOT.

FWIW, there are no blobs, just a light film on the edge of the plexiglass . The pics shows a few drops from prior attempts . The 2 ml difference is a fail and will need to be corrected once I find the biggest chamber. You can not win with previous owned (used Stuff). But I try to save where I can, and in return will learn twice as much?

Thanks for the Tips, by the time I get to the last chamber. I bet I have a GOOD process to share.

Anyone have a WOHLHAUPTER they can loan me to use on my Bridgeport?

[old914dog]

Used a burette(?) for 10 years. Used red atf for better visibility

[technicalninja]

Burettes are more accurate but a bunch harder to use IMO.

When you're pushing 13-1 a cc of difference is a huge jump in static comp ratio.

When you're pushing 9-1 a cc doesn't do shit...

I drill the inlet so a hypo "sticks" in the hole and holds itself upright.

If you drill so the hypo tip just clears the other side you don't have to worry about the volume of that hole.
The breather hole should be so small as to be an insignificant volume change (especially at low compression ratios).

I use antifreeze as my CC fluid.

It has a super low surface tension and bubbles don't get trapped or created as easily.

And, because it has a low surface tension it will leak past the valve seats like nothing else in this world.

I combat this by smearing the contact point/valve seat with candle wax.

Anything that doesn't evaporate quickly will work, ATF is fine.

I've always used old school green antifreeze.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

When you're blueprinting a motor and varying chamber volume to account for deck height/piston differences. you can end up doing this crap 4 or 5 times on a single chamber.

This is more critical as compression ratio move UP. Building a 8-1 turbo engine is SO much more forgiving regarding perfect CC numbers that a 13-1 NA engine.