front wheel movement, Thought it was the bearings, but they are new... Options

[rjames]

After getting the newly rebuilt front suspension buttoned up, I thought I was done, but I can't seem to remove a bit of play in both of the front wheels. Feels exactly like loose wheel bearings, except that it's not. I installed new wheel bearings in the rotors even though the old ones looked fine since I was in there anyway. Spindles looked fine, too.
I verified no movement in the strut, and I can't feel any movement anywhere else on the strut assembly (ball joint, tie rods, control arm etc.). Over tightening the bearings only helped a tiny bit, (I didn't drive on the overtightened bearing, just did it to see if it removed the play).

I've done my front bearings before and didn't run into this issue. I guess I'm left with removing the rotors, but don't even know what to look for.

[barefoot]

After getting the newly rebuilt front suspension buttoned up, I thought I was done, but I can't seem to remove a bit of play in both of the front wheels. Feels exactly like loose wheel bearings, except that it's not. I installed new wheel bearings in the rotors even though the old ones looked fine since I was in there anyway. Spindles looked fine, too.
I verified no movement in the strut, and I can't feel any movement anywhere else on the strut assembly (ball joint, tie rods, control arm etc.). Over tightening the bearings only helped a tiny bit, (I didn't drive on the overtightened bearing, just did it to see if it removed the play).

I've done my front bearings before and didn't run into this issue. I guess I'm left with removing the rotors, but don't even know what to look for.

Are you getting shimmy at any speed ? steering rack itself ??

[dax1969]

The rubber steering coupler worn out ?

krgds
Dax

[mepstein]

Tie rods, ball joints, loose gland nut on top of strut, etc. go through each part ( there aren’t many) until you isolate the problem.

[arbitrary]

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

[rjames]

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

Where should I measure from and what’s the spec?

[bdstone914]

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

Where should I measure from and what’s the spec?

The diameter of the spindle should be about .010" smaller than the inner race of the bearing that goes on it. Compare the old and new bearings. Is the static play both horizontal and vertical?

[rjames]

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

Where should I measure from and what’s the spec?

The diameter of the spindle should be about .010" smaller than the inner race of the bearing that goes on it. Compare the old and new bearings. Is the static play both horizontal and vertical?

Play feels mostly vertical on both sides. If it ends up being less than spec, is it OK to run with it as is? If I have to remove the strut assembly after just putting the front end back together, I’m going to lose it.

BTW everything from the steering coupler down has been replaced or refurbished and I can’t feel any movement from anything other than the wheel/rotor (they move as one).

[76-914]

With the crap quality we see todayI wouldn't surprised if it were the new bearings. Mic the old bearings then mic the new bearings to check for a difference first. Next check to see if there is any slop in the new bearings. If there isn't any problem there go thru everything like Mark suggested. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[brant]

Check the gland nut that holds the insert in the strut?

[rjames]

Check the gland nut that holds the insert in the strut?

No movement there. Puck replaced, rack is refurbished, new tie rods and ball joints. All feels tight from the strut assembly back to the steering wheel.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

if in the wheel tightness only I totally agree

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

[rjames]

If it ends up being the spindles, is it safe to run them as is?

[bdstone914]

Worn spindles? Check them with a micrometer.

Where should I measure from and what’s the spec?

The diameter of the spindle should be about .010" smaller than the inner race of the bearing that goes on it. Compare the old and new bearings. Is the static play both horizontal and vertical?

[rjames]

Took the rotors off on both sides. All looks to be in spec. Put everything back on, no change on both sides. Even if I tighten the spindle nut way too tight I still feel movement. For the life of me it feels like it’s coming from the rotor, but admittedly it’s hard to push/pull the tire while trying to look / feel around underneath for movement.

Something to note, there isn’t much movement when the car is off the ground. As soon as the full weight is back on the tires, there’s movement. I think I need to get the car on a lift that will allow the weight to remain on the wheels to have a better look. Either way, after all the work it’s taken me to refurb the front end, I’m fully burned out and ready to farm this sh*t out.

It’s times like these I think about selling.

[Geezer914]

When you say play in the wheels, is it play in the steering wheel?

[Superhawk996]

Did you measure spindles & Bearings?

The fact that it seems worse with weight on it needs to be followed up on.

Things affected by having weight and/or ride height differences:

Bearings (are you sure races are fully seated)? Sorry to ask since you have over tightened bearing and removed rotors, but are you absolutely sure? Did you remove grease and actually look at race position within the rotor?

Strut gland nut - The Koni strut cartridge may be seating further into strut housing creating play at the top gland nut at curb ride height.

Tie rod ends.

Seems to me that I recall you having some “extra” clearance between those Koni strut rods and the top body mount ? Maybe I’m not remembering correctly?

If it were me I’d start measuring the play with a dial indicator to know how much play there is and to see where it’s coming from.

Example: dial indicator mounted between body and the top of the strut rod to see if that extra clearance at the top strut mount is showing up.

[rjames]

No play in steering wheel.

No extra clearance between strut rods and the top body mount. (That was a thought before I knew how they we’re supposed to be seated.)

Gland nut- I don’t think I feel movement there. I do know that I tightened them to spec on the bench.

I started to wonder if maybe I left some paint on the surface of where the ball joints sit on the control arm, but I don’t feel any movement there.

I don’t feel movement in the (new) tie rod joint.

Inner and outer races are fully seated.
I measured bearings and spindles and they are within .10 of each other. The old bearings were good too. They were in good shape so I tried installing them for grins and there was no discernible change. New ones went back in.

I'm going to try and get it up in the air with weight on the tires so I can get further under the car while recreating the noise/movement. Hoping that maybe it's in fact the gland nuts, but I don't think it is.

[Superhawk996]

I measured bearings and spindles and they are within .10 of each other. The old bearings were good too. They were in good shape so I tried installing them for grins and there was no discernible change. New ones went back in.

Decimal places matter. I think this is typo. Did you mean 0.010” or less between spindle OD and bearing ID? 0.010” is quite a bit. I’d think it would probably be less than half of that but don’t have parts in front of me to measure and suspect Bruce isn’t terribly far off either. 0.002” of clearance is a slip fit.

I think you’re saying old and new were basically the same?

[Superhawk996]

What did you use for lower control arm bushings rubber or hard bushing like Delrin?