Help - Installing CV/Axle Assemblies after Engine Install? Options

[Tom1394racing]

On my -6 GT project I decided to leave the CV/axle installation until after the engine was installed. I figured there has to be a way to change out the CV/axle assembly with the engine in the car.

This afternoon, I went to install them with the stub axle installed on the CV. It was not clear that they would fit. It seemed like I might need to remove the heat exchanger and/or the shock absorber. Any tricks to this? Do I need to install the stub axles before the CV/axle assembly? I can't imagine that I need to remove the engine to install the CV/axles.

How is this done?

[Tom1394racing]

Well, I’ve done a little bit of reading on this one. Lots of suggestions, including removing the shocks and the heat exchangers and for the driver side, the starter. Will this allow me the access?

Is there any clever way around this?

[technicalninja]

Have you had the car aligned yet?

If not, I'd remove lower shock bolt and the trailing arm mounting hardware.

You might have to un-clip the E-brake cable.

I think you'll have enough slack to move the arm out enough to slide the axle in without discoing the hydraulics.

Need to have a way to support the trailing arm weight during this.

Floor jack with a piece of plywood might work.

My 2 cents...

[bdstone914]

No need to remove the heat exchangers. Remove the lower shock bolt and let the trailing arm come down about 4 inches to get clearance to install the assemblies.
Floor jack to raise up the trailing arm.

[rgalla9146]

Bolts out of lower shocks with some way to both lower and raise the control arms.
With your large CVs you can use a phillips screw driver to guide the stub axle into the
hub. There's a recess in the tip of the stub...stick the driver in there from the wheel
side.
I'm not sure you can get away with the HE's in place on a six.
Maybe lower the trans end a bit. Don't forget the ground wire.
Have some extra CV gaskets on hand. Brake hoses are not a problem

[Tom1394racing]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll try the passenger install first with removing only the shock bolt and allowing the trailing arm to droop. If I can't get enough clearance that way to fit the stub axle into the trailing arm, I'll remove the heat exchanger.

I wish I had installed the axles before the engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Tom1394racing]

Did the passenger side today. I removed the shock absorber and the throttle bell crank & linkage. This gave me sufficient access. The screwdriver trick to guide the stub axle into place in the hub was golden!



Hopefully the driver side will be as easy.

[Tom1394racing]

I did the driver's side today. I only needed to remove the shock, just like the passenger side. A little bit more fiddling on this side. Being able to slide the inboard CV joint towards the middle of the axle on the free-floating axle made a big difference in the clearance.



Thanks again for all the suggestions