rust proofing cavities? Options

[rfuerst911sc]

Is there a pictorial or diagram of all the empty cavities on a 914 that can/should be sprayed with rustproofing goop? As I make my way thru my 914 in regards to surface rust cleanup on exposed exterior surfaces I would like to also spray in all empty cavities some goop. So where are all of these cavities? I know the longs but where else? And where are the best places to drill/spray some goop?

[Wilhelm]

Is there a pictorial or diagram of all the empty cavities on a 914 that can/should be sprayed with rustproofing goop? As I make my way thru my 914 in regards to surface rust cleanup on exposed exterior surfaces I would like to also spray in all empty cavities some goop. So where are all of these cavities? I know the longs but where else? And where are the best places to drill/spray some goop?

So what sort of goop are you thinking of. On some of the 911 sites I've seen them talk about "cavity wax" whereby you take long wands, thread them in the cavities and spray with a variety of spray tips in an attempt to disperse the material. Big panals, the rear fenders are sometimes difficult to coat as they are filled with the blessed foam which is difficult to get out. I've wondered if you could take things like doors, hoods and powdercoat them throughout, sand and paint the outside in a normal fashion. This might afford good inside protection to these structures. It might be possible to powder coat some of the chassis with powder coat using heat lamps to cure the powder rather than ovens. Don't have any diagrams by the way.

[Jeff Hail]

Is there a pictorial or diagram of all the empty cavities on a 914 that can/should be sprayed with rustproofing goop? As I make my way thru my 914 in regards to surface rust cleanup on exposed exterior surfaces I would like to also spray in all empty cavities some goop. So where are all of these cavities? I know the longs but where else? And where are the best places to drill/spray some goop?

Anything that is a closed box is a candidate for cavity wax.

For commerical applications the Wurth Multi-Sprayer is what most high end bodyshops use. It has a plethora of tips, and wands with 6 foot extension tubes.
The wand heads are available in round the corner, daisy and 180.
This is the best applicator ever produced because you can get in just about everywhere. Windshield pillars, hinges posts, sail panel's. It not only sprays cavity wax but also a regular fan spray head for rocker, chips guard's and undercoating. I think it was developed by a proctologyst. Really easy to use because all you have to do is get the tool head where it needs to go and squeeze the trigger while slowly pulling back on the tubing.

On the other hand Wurth also makes Protective Wax. If you have an area that is already painted and sealed this is one more budget minded step in corrosion protection. The PW is what you would see on Porsche and BMW around hood hinges, flanges, jambs etc. It is visible on many horizontal surfaces .It is a great product for after paint seam sealing. Its thin and stays put. This can also be used on gromets, rubber wiring sheaths, and pass-through's that may seep a bit. Those headlamp bucket drain tubes that rust, get some PW!

[Twystd1]

Jeff,

Have you ever used that wax stuff....... Wilst having some fun????? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just thinking outside the box bro......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Clayton

[rfuerst911sc]

I was thinking of useing either the commercially available spray can of cavity wax or make my own concoction. I've heard you take 2.5 quarts turpentine,12 ozs. of beeswax/candle wax and 1 quart light machine oil and gently heat this solution and mix thouroghly into a sprayable end product. I'm thinking of possibly converting a garden pump up sprayer for this application.

[IronHillRestorations]

You can buy a decent set up from Eastwood or even JCWhitney. Not as nice as the pro rig that Jeff shows (very nice!), but functional. I wouldn't bother trying to save money mixing your own formula, the stuff isn't that expensive, and you might not end up with exactly what you need.

For best results you've got to drill holes in the upper and lower parts of the longitudinals, as the heater tube in the middle prevents getting good coverage.

Here's a brief description of what I do.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...osion+treatment

[Jeff Hail]

Jeff,

Have you ever used that wax stuff....... Wilst having some fun????? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just thinking outside the box bro......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Clayton

Not slippery enough!

[rfuerst911sc]

Anyone familiar with this stuff:http://youroil.net/rustshield_wax_based_.html

[shoguneagle]

Jeff - excellent work and method of explaining. Keep up the very good
work and information. Enjoy your comments on the Pelican Board
Mulholland Drive thread.

Perry: I am using your procedure on my 914-6 project. Need to know
where, how many holes, etc do use in the longs to treat the inner
structure; also, where else do you treat the double wall structure?
Am planning on using Por-15 system inside all double cavities as
possible, entire underneath of the car including engine cavity,
trunks, fuel tank, dash area, and interior. Need to know your
thoughts on this matter.
Jeff: First time I heard of interior sealing wax and Wurth Products, will
be checking them out. Thanks for the info.

Steve Hurt

[scotty b]

Do yourself a favor and spray some sort of rust neutralizer in there FIRST and give it ample time to dry.. Not must point is putting wax on top of rust

[rfuerst911sc]

Do yourself a favor and spray some sort of rust neutralizer in there FIRST and give it ample time to dry.. Not must point is putting wax on top of rust

Is there a particuliar brand you recommend?

[shoguneagle]

Scotty, thanks for the input. I do use a rust converter such as 10-20% Phosphoric Acid (or metal etch or jasco, etc.) Let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, and wash out several time air blowing as much out as possible after each washing; then apply a solution of baking soda and water 10-30% to neutralize any remaining acid (may do this several times since I do not leave any potential powder residual); again wash wash several times with water and air blowing after each wash. I then let it dry for several days. It is after this procedure is where I want to use Perry's technique.

Steve Hurt

[scotty b]

Do yourself a favor and spray some sort of rust neutralizer in there FIRST and give it ample time to dry.. Not must point is putting wax on top of rust

Is there a particuliar brand you recommend?

Brand wise I have always adocated the use of Ospho. As steve stated phosphoric acid is the trick with surface rust. Ospho IS quite toxic ( it is afterall an acid) one whiff of it will tell you all you need to know.

[SirAndy]

as always, the search is your friend ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...aumversiegelung

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) Andy

some holes are already present, others need to be drilled:




and a translation of the legend:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1122570793.jpg)

[shoguneagle]

lThanks, Andy. Just exactly what I needed. In fact, it more than I expected. You are right, the "Search" is your friend. Just expected to get something from Perry with a few holes to drill. Now I have exactly what I need. Again, thanks.

Still owe you a beer or two. Maybe next time I am in California.

Steve Hurt