Work-arounds for Aux Air Regulators?, Work-arounds for Aux Air Regulators? |
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Work-arounds for Aux Air Regulators?, Work-arounds for Aux Air Regulators? |
wgwhitney2 |
Nov 17 2009, 08:14 AM
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#1
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
Anyone have a work around for a AAR? Mine is sitting upside down in penetrating oil as I hope and pray that the cylinder becomes unstuck. In the meantime, has anyone successfully grafted another AAR device? My 1973 1.7L needs a little help when she's cold.
As I research the subject I see where Bosch made a bunch of FI systems for various auto manufacturers around the world, and I cannot help but think one of those bits would do the job my 0280-014-007 does when healthy? |
blitZ |
Nov 17 2009, 08:27 AM
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#2
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Beer please... Group: Members Posts: 2,223 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Lawrenceville, GA Member No.: 4,719 Region Association: South East States |
There are replacement units available for $150 or so. You can always use the heel and toe method for the first few minutes of driving.
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rick 918-S |
Nov 17 2009, 08:32 AM
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#3
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,674 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
You could replace the AAR with a 1/4 plumbing valve and rig a choke cable up to it. Pull it out at cold start up, push it closed as the engine warms. Or just replace it with a new one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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wgwhitney2 |
Nov 17 2009, 08:42 AM
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#4
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
There are replacement units available for $150 or so. You can always use the heel and toe method for the first few minutes of driving. Yeah, doing that now, the "heel 'n toe" thing. I am not fond of the idea of increasing AA's sales revenues without a "fight". It was and is a poor design to begin with, IMHO. However, my next step will be to cut the top off and clean it up. The heater and lead are working fine, it's just the cylinder that is stuck open. |
Cevan |
Nov 17 2009, 08:44 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 |
Post a WTB in the classifieds. They can't be that expensive.
As for other AARs, don't they all work the same? They get 12v and after a minute or two, they close, right? My D-Jet AAR was stuck. I eventually freed it up but if it didn't work, I was going to use an L-Jet AAR. |
wgwhitney2 |
Nov 17 2009, 08:46 AM
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#6
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
You could replace the AAR with a 1/4 plumbing valve and rig a choke cable up to it. Pull it out at cold start up, push it closed as the engine warms. Or just replace it with a new one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I was thinking along those lines as well. It seems a simple, if inelegant, solution. Manually operated chokes worked just fine for the first 60+ years of automobile history. If I cannot get the cylinder on my AAR to un-stick, and if cutting it open and performing surgery doesn't pan out, then I may opt for the manual choke system. Or, just pony up the $150 clams, but where's the fun in that? Thanks for the thoughts! Bill |
wgwhitney2 |
Nov 17 2009, 08:51 AM
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#7
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
Post a WTB in the classifieds. They can't be that expensive. As for other AARs, don't they all work the same? They get 12v and after a minute or two, they close, right? My D-Jet AAR was stuck. I eventually freed it up but if it didn't work, I was going to use an L-Jet AAR. You have it correct, Cevan, as far as I follow the theory. My heating coil and lead wire are fine, and work, but the cylinder is frozen open from rust and gunk. I would bet a meal at a drive-up window that just about any Bosch AAR would work if the plumbing was correct. I am not squeamish about experimentation, but prefer to stay off the bleeding edge when I can learn from someone else's experience. |
hcdmueller |
Nov 17 2009, 08:54 AM
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#8
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????????????? Group: Members Posts: 542 Joined: 4-February 06 From: UK Member No.: 5,527 Region Association: England |
VW used L-Jet type AAR's on their cars for a long time. Grab a couple from old golfs and try them out. The connections are different from the D-Jet but they seem to work the same.
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tradisrad |
Nov 17 2009, 09:06 AM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 985 Joined: 11-September 06 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 6,815 Region Association: Northern California |
It is possible to open up the can and disassemble the AAR. Take your time prying the can open so you can close it nicely!
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ConeDodger |
Nov 17 2009, 09:06 AM
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#10
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,752 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
Bill,
Come to the Sacramento Porsche Family Reunion Sunday. Jim Dupree may have a spare he could sell and at the very least, he can talk you through a workaround. |
blitZ |
Nov 17 2009, 09:17 AM
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#11
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Beer please... Group: Members Posts: 2,223 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Lawrenceville, GA Member No.: 4,719 Region Association: South East States |
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jim_hoyland |
Nov 17 2009, 09:35 AM
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#12
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,410 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
AAR's can be found at 914 Swap Meets from my experience and many of us have a spare hanging around from past projects. Put a WTB ad in the classifieds.
To test, look through the AAR at ambient temp, mine is 1/2 - 1/3 open. Connect to a nine volt battery ( easy to carry ) and see if the window inside the AAR closes in a minute or so. Mine closes in 1 1/2 min Stuck AARs can be fixed, I once used PB blaster to free one up. Good luck. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Nov 17 2009, 09:44 AM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
VW tried it, but only for 10 years, so I'm not sure they determined whether it'll work or not. The Cap'n |
underthetire |
Nov 17 2009, 09:47 AM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
You could use a 12vdc solenoid to open a vac. line. Grainger has them for 25 bucks. would be open or closed though, nothing in between.
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blitZ |
Nov 17 2009, 10:13 AM
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#15
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Beer please... Group: Members Posts: 2,223 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Lawrenceville, GA Member No.: 4,719 Region Association: South East States |
VW tried it, but only for 10 years, so I'm not sure they determined whether it'll work or not. The Cap'n So, if I plug the hot lead to my Djet AAR into one of these it will work as expected? Care to expand on your comment? |
hcdmueller |
Nov 17 2009, 10:18 AM
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#16
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????????????? Group: Members Posts: 542 Joined: 4-February 06 From: UK Member No.: 5,527 Region Association: England |
blitz, those are the AAR's that I was talking about. They look the same as the LJet ones on 914's and VW Buses. I am sure the closing time is different but the function should be the same. One lead is ground and the other power. As far as I can tell it doesn't matter which. Plenty of used ones in the junkyard off of older VW Golfs.
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Cap'n Krusty |
Nov 17 2009, 10:50 AM
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#17
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Looking a bit farther, you could get an AAR and the mounting bracket from a '76-'79 Bus and you'd have a bolt in ...................Get the connector and about 6" of wire while you're there.
The Cap'n |
agentblr |
Nov 17 2009, 11:04 AM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 303 Joined: 23-January 04 From: Lee's Summit MO Member No.: 1,595 |
I have an AAR out of an early (83-85.5) on my 73 2.0 work's great. I think it was like $5 at the boneyard!
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toon1 |
Nov 17 2009, 02:04 PM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
There have been threads on here in the past on how to fix the 914 AAR.
If memory serves, the person cut it open and reconnected the wire inside, worked great after. it's common for them to stop working. Mine stopped and the car ran like crap for a while, backfiring and hesitating until the engine compartmant warmed up enough to close it. |
r_towle |
Nov 17 2009, 07:38 PM
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#20
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,623 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I live in the Northeast.
It was in the 30's this morning. I have NO AAR and NO cold start injection. Car starts fine. Idle the car for less than a minute...enough time to close the barn door. Drove to work...no stutter, no stumble. When it gets down to less than 20 degrees, I need to warm it up for a minute, maybe a bit more. I drive to the end of the road in third gear, about a mile. Heat is nice and hot, car runs great. I also tune my car up frequently and mess with the points and timing frequently...and adjust my valves frequently. Rich |
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