Powered washer fluid assembly Options

[swood]

Ok, so I'm mocking up what I have for this assembly and referencing Andy's write up

I have a few questions and I'll post a few pics.

First, when I pulled out the filler tube, it basically crumbled on me. All I have at the moment are zip ties, but here's my modification. I suppose by the time I power it up, if it leaks I can get a better hose clamp. By bypassing the spare tire connection, I can run this tubing right to the pump itself.



Can I mount my pump in this area?



I have a new Bosch relay p/n # 0 332 019 150-010. It looks like it would go here. No clue on how to wire to it yet.

[swood]

Lastly, the steering column switch. Again looking for assistance on making the wired connection.




Thanks. And yes, I'm breaking out the wiring diagrams to reference. And this is a '75 model.

Thanks.

[r_towle]

924 uses the correct switch for the column.
Pump vibrates...mount is on rubber standoffs.
Pump must be below fluid or it does not work well.

Drill hole in lid to keep it from becoming a vacuum inside...
I ran my own new wires...
RIch

[bobhasissues]

I'm looking at the first picture of your resevoir, are you expecting the washer fluid will be sucked out the top of the resevoir by the pump? If this is the plan, don't count on it working. Your fluid supply has to come from the bottom of the resevoir. Also, you can fabricate your own electric switch for a few bucks using the stock switch stalk and a micro switch avilable from Radio Shack. Save a lot of money and do a search on the topic. "Spoke" had a really nice set-up and posted some photos to a thread I started on the topic several months ago. I fabbed up a homemade switch but after seeing Spoke's, I fabbed up one similar to his.

[flipb]

Has anyone ever stuck with the stock setup but added something other than the spare tire to pressurize the tank? I don't know what... weak electric air pump? CO2 canister?

I guess that wouldn't eliminate (heck, would probably increase) the chances of douching yourself when you pull the stalk. But somehow seems a little more true to the original engineering.

[Kirmizi]

Stevo, I did this modification on my '75.
I mounted the pump beneath the fluid reservoir (as per Andy's write up I believe).
As for the relay, mine was already installed (yes, where you indicated) and IIRC it was for intermittent wipers. I also removed the plastic valve behind the wiper switch where the hoses connected, figured that I didn't need that anymore.
Mike

[kconway]

My car has this mod. The pump is mounted right were your thinking of locating the relay. Works great.

[516randy]

I believe the rare factory install of the washer pump is under the washer fluid tank. I think their is also a factory wire that goes from the the wiper control to the pump. There are also some good tech articles on this, maybe here and at pelican.
Good luck
Randy
Let me know how it goes, I was thinking of doing it as well, don't know why though, I never take it out in the rain.

[swood]

I was thinking that if the pump went under the tank, it could get close to interfering with the gas tank. Will need to bust that out and see what works best.

I might want to come check out your setup Kev.

[davep]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=67916
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=81256
My system replaces the water valve with a 5 amp switch, fits all years and includes a vented cover for the tank cap.

[SirAndy]

I mounted the pump beneath the fluid reservoir (as per Andy's write up I believe).
As for the relay, mine was already installed (yes, where you indicated) and IIRC it was for intermittent wipers. I also removed the plastic valve behind the wiper switch where the hoses connected, figured that I didn't need that anymore.

Yes on all 3 ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

- The stock (/6) location of the pump is below the reservoir and clears the tank just fine.

- The relay is for the intermittent wiper option.

- The water connections on the stalk are not needed anymore.


The pump should be mounted on rubber to reduce noise.
The pump inlet must come from the bottom of the bottle.
You will need to drill a hole in the top cap (or somehow remove the check valve), otherwise the pump will have to suck against a vacuum.
Later model 914 stalks ('73+?) can easily be used to power the pump, no need for a 944 setup.

I'm running the pump directly off the stalk, but eventually will go to a setup with a separate relay and fuse.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=13261

[zonedoubt]

I recommend using some inline check valves at each of the spray nozzles. This way the pump doesn't have to suck fluid through empty tubing every time you operate the stalk. The factory schematics show at least on of these in use, but I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else. PP has them in stock in their 911 section. Funny thing is the part number starts with "914-". Works well on my electric washer conversion.

[swood]

Ok, i see my first error. There won't be any new tube connected to the top opening of the water tank, only from the bottom to the intake portion of the pump. The cap needs a hole drilled for air intake. Output side of pump goes to the nozzles. Simple as that. So is does the cap have a check valve that closes the port when there is no tube connected to it (the one connected to the spare tire)?

And thanks for the link to Spokes post Dave...I knew about that one but couldn't find it.


Now, on to the switch and wiring...

[swood]

So do I need to locate the wire that gets connected to this pink wire with black stripe and connect the pump power side to it? And then ground the other pump wire?

[Spoke]

I'm not familiar with the pink/black wire. Maybe it runs the wipers when you pull the washer stalk? The water switch is the black appendage shown in the top of the pic. This is where people mount a microswitch or the 944 switch.

[detoxcowboy]

I suggest you read the pelican parts tech article on this.. yes the pink/black stripe wire is your pump positive side.. (up to you if you want to run a relay or directly to pump) also if the switch is a 924 porsche also same part no. known for use in vw busses and karman ghia's thiugh you will pay twice as much for the porsche... then you need to take the all of the wires out of the 914 white plasitc harness and use your 914 white plastic harness whihc has one less double side on your new switch..,MAKE SURE YOU PUT THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER AS THEY WERE and run the pink black wire out seperatly inside your column. the 924 switches plastic harness is one wire thicker for holding that pink black wire than the 914 original harness and will not fit in through the column on final installment with the turn signal harness, i suggest you check the fitment of that switch along with your turnsignal switch to see what i am talking about (it is mentioned in pelican and aa tech article) plus i just re-did mine using same, and i left the plastic orginal valves in there for prostertity... the ground wire from your pump can ground right next to where you place it. using rubber mount stops the dental drill noise when operating the factory rubber mounts s require drilling hole so choose a mount below the tank where you can drill or do it from underneath the passeneger foot well . also THE PUMP HAS TO BE PRIMED BEFORE IT WORKS OR WHEN FOR WHATEVER REASON RUNS DRY so you want the pump below the tank so the flow is "wet" continually. Also the switch must be fully installed into your column so it grounds to it or your delays will be on constantly in stalk position lower and neutral. Basically it is way easier than it sounds..

[davep]

I'm not familiar with the pink/black wire. Maybe it runs the wipers when you pull the washer stalk?

Intermittent wiper function. Replace the valve with a switch and you can have both.

[detoxcowboy]

I'm not familiar with the pink/black wire. Maybe it runs the wipers when you pull the washer stalk?

Intermittent wiper function. Replace the valve with a switch and you can have both.

nope thats not it, the pink/black stripe wire is for a washer pump, the brown wire runs the 3 stroke wipe, the delay is from another wire.. I have had a volt meter w/ light on the wires, when the stalk is pulled back the pinkwire/black stripe and the brown wire both get powered when the stalk is puylled back. thus giving you liquid on your wqindshield from the pump and the 3 stroke to wipe it off simutainuosly.

you do not need to replace the valve with any switch (the "switch" is to your washer pump from the pink black wire whihc gets electrical contact from the same switch that makles the mechanical valve switch work.. .. nor do you need to remove it for any other reason than having difficulties mounting the switch in column i left mine on and no worries.

you could reverse the brown wire and the pink black stripe wires but one of each still needs to go to their location (1 to the wiper harness and the other to the pump)


how many wires are in the switch pictured vs. the one that came with your 914 from the factory? you will see there is 1 extra wire now the pink black stripe one. probably to save money making the same switch with different layouts they now made on with different options.. they could sell them better and have wider need for the same swtich. so use the black plastic valve or use the wire.. put it ina newer porsche or put it in an old bus..

[McMark]

Here's the stock 914/6 washer pump mounting holes. I can get more accurate measurements if you want to go this route.

[FlacaProductions]

Hi All - I'm really sorry to dredge this up again but it's juuuuust not 100% clear to me (or maybe it is....) as - as I've said before - unfortunately I'm away from the car and try to do reading/research without being able to actually consult my 914 in the flesh.

Old wiper switch comes out, white plastic "tray" is transplanted to new switch, placing the 5 wires and pins in corresponding positions. "Extra" or 6th wire is run outside of the "tray" and is connected to provide (+) power to washer pump.

Disregard the turn signal depicted in the replacement pic - it's incorrect. I have the proper switch ready to go.

So...I believe this is correct - right?
(one of the things that makes this a bit confusing is the fact that the replacement switch wiring colors are different from OEM - so when transferring to the "tray" one just needs to make sure that the positions are retained)