Lower Wheelhouse Replacement Part, Is it meant to be single layer, or double? Options

[Gudhjem]

I’m working on repairing the area below the Hell Hole – basically the bottom of the passenger long around and behind the jack post.

My plan is to preserve the double-wall original aspect, so I’ve been taking pains weld new metal onto the inner C-shaped long pieces before I repair the outer pieces that sit over them. TIG welding on slightly pitted 20ga is challenging, but I’m managing. I’d rather not go the single-wall replacement route that the RD/AA inner long piece for the engine compartment is designed to do (the one with the corrugated ribbing that shows after install).

As part of this, I need to replace the metal around the jackpost on the inner wall. I’d like to be able to use this piece from RD:



Can anyone tell me if the RD piece is meant to go inside of the outer long (like the original configuration) or if this is meant to be a single-layer piece, with nothing over it? I'm guessing it's meant to be single, since I think I see a flange on it, and the inner "C" channel pieces don't have that. I’ll have to do some pretty tough fabricating to get the jack post hole right...

[TargaToy]

It's meant to be 2-ply.



The smaller part with the round hole in the jackpost area goes inside (behind) the larger part.

[Gudhjem]

It's meant to be 2-ply.



The smaller part with the round hole in the jackpost area goes inside (behind) the larger part.

Yes! That smaller part in the bottom of your pic is exactly what I'm looking for. But I don't see that on the RD site.

Did you get it elsewhere?

EDIT: I talked to RD. The part I ordered is apparently BOTH parts, with the smaller part already spot welded inside the larger part. Although I'll have to drill out the spot welds, nice to know it's all there. Thanks for the pic.

[TargaToy]

I ordered the wheelhouse from RD. I had it a little while (still working on the driver's side) and happened to notice on someone else's post that their part had the second ply. When I contacted Mike at RD, he sent me the inner part no charge. I'm presuming that the two pieces are supposed to be one unit and some were shipped as singles (by mistake??).

[peteyd]

I am not exactly sure why it is you want to take the two pieces apart. I have an original PORSCHE piece and it is the same as what we make.

Im just trying to understand what it is your trying to do so we can help however we can.

Pete

[peteyd]

[peteyd]

If it is just the inner piece that you need, we have some in stock that just need to be trimmed.

Let me know.

Pete

[Gudhjem]

Thanks for the reply Pete.

The reason I will probably separate the two pieces is that my outer piece appears to be in decent shape, while the inner peice has rust issues in the bottom of it and around the jack post.

I'm trying to keep as much of the original metal as possible, mostly because I want to reduce the chance that I throw something out of alignment or twist the frame. I'm doing this without a jig, and that's my biggest concern. It would be easier and less work if I just cut out entire panels and replaced them with new ones, but I'm not sure I can keep the car straight if I did that. So I'm not planning to replace my part with the replacement part entirely, just cut away until I get good metal, and then cuts pieces out of the replacement part as needed.

I'm happy to get both pieces though, since there probably are some parts of the outer that I will replace, like around the jack post. Per my exchange with Lucy, my understanding is the double piece is what is on its way to me.

I suppose most who buy that part are replacing the entire original piece, or are at least replacing both layers where they replace it, so it makes sense you've spot welded it. I'm just trying too limit cutting out that much, at least at one time. We'll see, I may end up using more than I think.

--Steve

[scotty b]

Thanks for the reply Pete.

The reason I will probably separate the two pieces is that my outer piece appears to be in decent shape, while the inner peice has rust issues in the bottom of it and around the jack post.

I'm trying to keep as much of the original metal as possible, mostly because I want to reduce the chance that I throw something out of alignment or twist the frame. I'm doing this without a jig, and that's my biggest concern. It would be easier and less work if I just cut out entire panels and replaced them with new ones, but I'm not sure I can keep the car straight if I did that. So I'm not planning to replace my part with the replacement part entirely, just cut away until I get good metal, and then cuts pieces out of the replacement part as needed.

I'm happy to get both pieces though, since there probably are some parts of the outer that I will replace, like around the jack post. Per my exchange with Lucy, my understanding is the double piece is what is on its way to me.

I suppose most who buy that part are replacing the entire original piece, or are at least replacing both layers where they replace it, so it makes sense you've spot welded it. I'm just trying too limit cutting out that much, at least at one time. We'll see, I may end up using more than I think.

--Steve

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I'm a bit confused. you don't want to cut out the outer for fear of having the chassis twist so how to you propose to get to the inner panel ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) AM I missing something ?

FWIW if the innner panel is rusty and the outer is not....you just haven't found the rust on the outer. Water tends to gte inbetween the two panels and rust the outer from the inside out. My bet is once you seperate the two to do things the way you plan, you will find you need the outer piece as well

If you are going at this from inside the engine bay you DEFINITELY do not want to go any further until you brace the car. Not inly at the doors, but you need to support the whoole rear ( trunk ) section of the car. Once all of the hell hole metal is removed, the whole rear 1/3 of the car is just floating and it WILL move unless you have it firmly supported and tied into the cabin. Gauranteed

[Gudhjem]

Thanks for the reply Pete.

The reason I will probably separate the two pieces is that my outer piece appears to be in decent shape, while the inner piece has rust issues in the bottom of it and around the jack post.

I'm trying to keep as much of the original metal as possible, mostly because I want to reduce the chance that I throw something out of alignment or twist the frame. I'm doing this without a jig, and that's my biggest concern. It would be easier and less work if I just cut out entire panels and replaced them with new ones, but I'm not sure I can keep the car straight if I did that. So I'm not planning to replace my part with the replacement part entirely, just cut away until I get good metal, and then cuts pieces out of the replacement part as needed.

I'm happy to get both pieces though, since there probably are some parts of the outer that I will replace, like around the jack post. Per my exchange with Lucy, my understanding is the double piece is what is on its way to me.

I suppose most who buy that part are replacing the entire original piece, or are at least replacing both layers where they replace it, so it makes sense you've spot welded it. I'm just trying too limit cutting out that much, at least at one time. We'll see, I may end up using more than I think.

--Steve

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I'm a bit confused. you don't want to cut out the outer for fear of having the chassis twist so how to you propose to get to the inner panel ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) AM I missing something ?

FWIW if the innner panel is rusty and the outer is not....you just haven't found the rust on the outer. Water tends to gte inbetween the two panels and rust the outer from the inside out. My bet is once you seperate the two to do things the way you plan, you will find you need the outer piece as well

If you are going at this from inside the engine bay you DEFINITELY do not want to go any further until you brace the car. Not inly at the doors, but you need to support the whoole rear ( trunk ) section of the car. Once all of the hell hole metal is removed, the whole rear 1/3 of the car is just floating and it WILL move unless you have it firmly supported and tied into the cabin. Gauranteed

You're confused because what I wrote is confusing...

It's true, I expect I'd have difficulty getting to the inside panel without removing the outside panel. What I meant is that, since I am hoping to not replace too much, I will cut away the rusted portion of the inside panel, and also cut away the outside panel to access it. In fact, I'll cut away an inch or so more of the outside panel so I can weld the inside first, clean it, then weld the outside over it. I expect I'll have to separate the spot-welded RD pieces to do that, since I'm not simply welding in a big length of double-walled replacement piece (again, hopefully (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hands.gif)). Your comment about the outer almost certainly being rusted as well is preparing me for worse.

I haven't gained access to everything yet to see how bad the rust is, since I want to weld up the areas I've already removed before removing any more material. I've so far removed the interior half of the bottom of the long from forward of the jackpost to the start of the suspension console. The walls of the long and the outside of the bottom of the long I have not yet touched, other than at the jackpost.

I appreciate the warnings about supporting the car. I have it supported front and back (it's on a rotisserie), and supported by leveling jacks in two places under the passenger long. The car's upside down for this stage of the work. I also have Tangerine Racing supports in place, two on each door opening, and check those measurements. I think that should be enough support, at least if I don't have to cut too much away at any one time (and I certainly wont be cutting all the way through the long at any point).