rear susp. question Options

[Aaron Cox]

hi guys, back from my week long lurking experience....

any way. i got my 140 lb welt. springs and my bilstein adjustable perch shocks now. next weekend is install day.

*what perch setting should i use?
*do i need a spring compressor?
*what's all this about tie-wrapping the spring into the perch?
*top or bottom perch?

can you guys help me out?
n e 1 been there done that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[ChrisReale]

I didnt need a spring compressor for my 180's, I did for the 100's. Rent one at your local FLAPS if you need to. Zip tie the top hat to the spring, makes it stay in the hat when elevated. I did this, seems to work. I say to start in the middle and then adjust the perches as necessary. My Koni's have three slots to choose from, I am using the lowest. If I recall, Bilstein's have about eight slots to choose from, the lowest being really low. Does yours only have two slots?

[Aaron Cox]

my bilsteins have 6 notches with a clip that holds up the perch. o thought about using the 3rd or 4th from the bottom.

so i should get a spring compressor, yes?
*what makes the spring jump out of its perch when you lift the car off the ground?
*why wont the spring reseat itself?

[ChrisReale]

I guess give it a shot, and if you need a spring compressor, go rent one! I have no experience with 140# springs. I recall reading that you dont need one. The reason the spring comes out, is because of gravity. When you have the rear on jack stands, the trailing arm lowers, as does the shocks. Once the shocks are at a maximim length, the spring just comes down with the lower seat, because the length of the extended shock is longer than the spring. Sometimes they do re-seat themselves, sometimes they dont.... I say start with the middle spring perch slot.

[Aaron Cox]

thanks a bunch.
anyone else have the same springs?
and or experience?

[driver66]

ive got to change my original shocks and springs on my 72...the boges are wore out and my rear springs are so far gone everyone thinks its been lowered.{lots of negitive chamber} got to fix as fast as possible.looks and drives wierd.im setting it up for heavy spirited driveing ,but its a daily driver so got any good advice . im thinking 140 rears????? is these direct replacements for my originals??

[Bleyseng]

If your car has the stock springs use a spring compressor as they are long and will fly off of the shock when you take it apart!! The 140lbs springs are shorter and don't require the compressor but do install the zip ties to hold them on the perches. I did the lowers.
I would replace the rears with the 140's if you have old stock ones. If doesnt give you a harsh ride at all but does firm up the rear.
I think my set up with 180's and Bilsteins are set on the last notch for ride height.
Geoff

[Aaron Cox]

ive got to change my original shocks and springs on my 72...the boges are wore out and my rear springs are so far gone everyone thinks its been lowered.{lots of negitive chamber} got to fix as fast as possible.looks and drives wierd.im setting it up for heavy spirited driveing ,but its a daily driver so got any good advice . im thinking 140 rears????? is these direct replacements for my originals??

i have the same problem, neg. camber and right rear bottoms out. looks lowered.

[Aaron Cox]

I think my set up with 180's and Bilsteins are set on the last notch for ride height.
Geoff

from the top or botom?


why did you ziptie the springs to the bottom perch? as to the top?

and on an unrelated subject
anyone need old springs?

[Aaron Cox]

also, should i replace bushingS?

[Brad Roberts]

Zip tie to the top (you cant see if it went into the perch correctly) You will have to drill two holes in the top (black perch)

None of the 140's need a compressor.

You cant zip tie the top and bottom.. the bottom perch needs to "float" when you jack up the car.

Start 3 up from the bottom... I run the race cars 2 up from the bottom. If I recall correctly.. each notch is 1/2 an inch.

It takes me 5 minutes with a floorjack and needle nose pliars to change the clip (up or down) so.. dont be so concerned with where you start on the shock.

[Aaron Cox]

thanks brad.
anyone else have a tidbit to add? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[driver66]

how old is ''old'' for your springs and what size are they do you have the shocks and what kind of shape they in ? i dont have a problem with good used. so,yes im interested. also would like to find other good used parts.....

[Jeffs9146]

Dont forget about the camber shims! I had one that had been hit on the left rear and when the PO repaired the trailing arm he put to many shims on that side. So, one tire had 0' Neg Camber and the other had 2' Neg!

Jeff

PS: I have lots of used suspension parts left over from my 5-lug conversion, if anyone needs any 4-lug stuff drop me a note!

[Elliot_Cannon]

I bought what I was told was a 160lb "progressive" spring form some folks in Temecula Ca. They don't come out of the perches and most definately need a spring compressor. I have seen someone hurt because they didn't think they needed a compressor. When that thing come loose it does so violently!!
Cheers, Elliot

[Jeffs9146]

Depends on the perch settings!

Jeff

[Dave Cawdrey]

I took stock springs off of Koni Reds w/out a compressor. I put a towel over the top perch, and loosened the nut....
POP!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

Correct. I knew he was going to "off" the old pare...

And He bought NEW springs... so he knows exactly what he has.

The only shocks with an issue (and need a compressor) are the stock style Boge/KYB's and Mullholand shocks. Any of the shocks with a fixed spring perch will need a spring compressor to remove the old springs. (I still do it by hand and aim them away from me)

The method used for years and years.... put the spare tire down over the top of the shock and push down while turning the wrench for the top nut.

You have to be some kind of WIMP not to be able to push down a stock worn out 70lb spring.... 2 inches with a 30lb spare tire wieght....

B

[KenH]

Put a bubble level on the door sill and set the rear height to match the front height or just an bit higher.

Ken

[Dave_Darling]

A private party can say things like, "As long as you point the spring at a concrete wall with no breakables in front of it, you probably don't need the spring compressor to remove the old stock springs."

A representative of a parts company--a business that theoretically has "deep pockets"--cannot expose the business to the potential liability. So a business representative will always say, "Use spring compressors in all cases. Don't sue us if you shoot the retatining nut through your skull."

So, kiddies, make sure that you always use spring compressors to remove stock or unknown springs.

[Note that most (but not all) of the aftermarket "lowering" springs do not have enough free length to press against the spring perches when the shock is at full droop. In that case, no spring compressors are needed at all. And that case will be quite obvious, because there will be a gap between the spring and one perch or the other.]

--DD