914-6 hand throttle linkage, More fun with ancient, cracked bushings! |
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914-6 hand throttle linkage, More fun with ancient, cracked bushings! |
smj |
Jun 16 2012, 02:32 AM
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#1
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
After my adventures with the shift linkage bushings (in this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=187814 ), the hand throttle in my -6 seemed to be disconnected. That is, after reassembly the position of the hand throttle seemed to have no effect on the idle.
Here's a view of the shifter/lever end of the hand throttle linkage from last weekend: I'm hoping that during final re-assembly I knocked something loose at the shifter/tunnel end, which I ought to be able to re-attach once I get in there in the morning. But if not, where the heck is the other end of that linkage -- under the gas tank? (I was about to check the PET when the computer I have it on decided to lock up as a special fuch-you-and-good-night just for me... A sign I should turn in and get some sleep, I think.) Thanks in advance, --Steve. |
mepstein |
Jun 16 2012, 05:30 AM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,600 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I'm pretty sure it goes to the gas pedal
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toolguy |
Jun 16 2012, 06:26 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 2-April 11 From: San Diego / El Cajon Member No.: 12,889 Region Association: Southern California |
the rod goes to a little pad on the side of the gas bell crank and the side of the pedal cluster. . but it goes through an alignment plate just inside the front of the tunnel. . there is a 10mm bolt on the top that holds the alignment plate on. . .,. I'll bet you pulled the throttle lever backwards in all the wiggling, and the end of the rod fell out of that plate . . . no big deal, you can see it with a mirror at the front access hole. . you'll have to take the shifter back out, put the throttle rod back in the hole and it should work. .
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Mr.242 |
Jun 16 2012, 06:37 AM
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#4
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May your glass be smaller so it's always FULL! Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 10-June 08 From: Seattle Member No.: 9,160 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) What he said....
Simply pull the whole assembly out. Lay it on top of the tunnel and line up the mounting holes. You will see how far the rod goes forward. REINSTALL rod in proper location and with a mirror or laying on your stomach you can get to the small support the rod goes through to help it line up to touch the throttle linkage. I found it easiest to undo the small mount at the pedal, insert rod, mount support, and finish with the throttle handle. Easy and the gas tank is way too far forward! |
Eric_Shea |
Jun 16 2012, 09:06 AM
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#5
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
What they said. Make sure you have the correct 914-6 bell crank with the tab coming off the side. The rod moves forward and simply pushes the throttle down buy pressing that tab. I've seen a number of ones replaced with the improper 914-4 bell crank that does not have that tab. Bellcranks crack and break often.
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sixnotfour |
Jun 16 2012, 10:03 AM
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#6
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,640 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Being a factory-6 on the pedal end of the rod it has or had a plastic radius end cap. If this fell off or deteriorated, It will cause the rod to be shorter and less effective. You can fix this by making the rod longer by adjusting it.
Attached image(s) |
DEC |
Jun 16 2012, 10:34 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 630 Joined: 10-November 05 From: Rehburg Member No.: 5,104 Region Association: Germany |
Being a factory-6 on the pedal end of the rod it has or had a plastic radius end cap. If this fell off or deteriorated, It will cause the rod to be shorter and less effective. You can fix this by making the rod longer by adjusting it. I think this is not the cause . The missing 5mm without the cap is neglecting. It may not work properly until it is assembled because you have too many spring forces counteract Like gas pedal and carb springs |
smj |
Jun 16 2012, 06:26 PM
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#8
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Well, it's both better
I still have the correct tab coming off the throttle pedal bell crank. And the rod from the hand throttle is actually still in the alignment bracket. However at full extension, the rod misses the tab from the throttle pedal bell crank. Weird, why is that happening? Uh oh, let's take a closer look at that alignment bracket... So once again, I am a victim of old bushings cracking and falling apart. I'll check the PET and see if the part's available. If not, maybe I'll pull the hand throttle, linkage and bracket and make some measurements... After all, I wanted an excuse to get one of those 3D printers... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Or I could just bodge something bigger onto the end of the rod. Hmm... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) |
smj |
Jun 16 2012, 06:46 PM
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#9
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
PET seems to indicate this is part number 914.424.219.00, "friction ring"
Pelican has OEM-91442421900 as a special order part for $34.50, ouch. The rod cap appears to be 914.424.225.00, "sleeve" - which is NLA according to Pelican. Aase Bros seems to have a compatible part for $9. FYI. |
Dave_Darling |
Jun 16 2012, 06:46 PM
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#10
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,060 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
It's just a bushing with an ID and an OD. The ID doesn't have to be that precise, even. I'd be quite surprised if you couldn't find something locally that will work just fine.
--DD |
smj |
Jun 16 2012, 07:19 PM
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#11
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
I hear you Dave. Pulled the bracket out and grabbed the calipers. Looks like the bracket opening is 13mm. Overall bushing diameter is 16mm, width of bushing side is 6mm each side, and inner diameter (opening) should be 4mm or so. Maybe I'm a little off, will try to get rod diameter, won't surprise me if it's 5mm. I've got an assortment of small plumbing washers & grommets, if none fit in the bracket I'm sure one may work to replace the rod cap. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Edit: Rod diameter looked to be 5mm. |
smj |
Jun 16 2012, 09:14 PM
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#12
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Well, I seem to have an acceptable kludge in place. I removed the alignment bracket and removed the bits of old bushing that were still clinging to it. I found that one of my rubber plumbing washers - now a "bushing" - would fit well enough for a temporary fix. Took a goodly bit of squeezing and pressing with pliers, so I'm hopeful it'll stay in place for a while, at least.
So I put some white lithium grease on the "bushing" and bolted the bracket back in place, and hoped everything would line up without any cap on the rod. Here's the bracket reinstalled with the rod in place, retracted. Here's the rod extended just to the tab from the gas pedal bell crank. And finally here's the rod fully extended, pushing the tab from the gas pedal bell crank. Now for a drive to make sure I didn't break anything else! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif) |
Eric_Shea |
Jun 16 2012, 11:02 PM
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#13
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Put a bleeder valve cap on it.
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smj |
Jun 17 2012, 12:05 AM
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#14
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Good idea, thanks Eric.Valve stem cap would be too big. But something that will wear down instead of the tab - as opposed to the clear wear mark on the tab from however long the old rod cap was missing... The other washers I had would've needed a dab of silicone to keep them on, and I didn't have any handy just then.
Car drove fine. No popping out of fifth gear on the highway, and a gorgeous scarlet, orange and azure cloud painting in the sky. Not a bad way to end the day. |
smj |
Jun 17 2012, 01:43 AM
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#15
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Note: If you need pieces of the hand throttle linkage, check out Mikey914's thread on a complete replacement assembly: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=174660
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