Jack point round-up and question |
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Jack point round-up and question |
smj |
Jun 26 2012, 02:35 AM
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#1
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Let's review. There's this thread from the Bird Board featuring Dave Darling's oft-referenced jack point diagram.
Then there are notable threads here on the 'World: Quick dumb question (2003) Question about putting car up on jack stands (2007) Jacking up (2009) My question is a little different. In response to my thread about floor jacks I went and bought the 2 ton low profile steel model from Harbor Freight. (If I can fix the Sears jack, bonus.) Jack seems to work great, lots of nifty little features. However... It's a long jack, because it'll lift almost 2 feet in the air. Which is interesting, because my driveway has ~24" tall concrete retaining walls on either side. To my best approximation I won't be able to fit the big new jack on both sides of the teener w/ enough room even to work the foot pedal and be perpendicular to the car. (Mayyybe. I will give it a try.) That led to me trying to figure out what the consensus was on front and rear jack points. I saw something in all those threads about putting a 2x4 or 4x4 between the front A-arm mounts, then jacking from under the center of that. Sounds great, I've got penty of room to the front and back. What about the rear? Using the middle of the 901 transmission gets mixed opinions. Would it be possible to use a similar 4x4 located under the two trailing arm pivot points, and jack that from the rear? I might be able to reach that. Is there a better option? I do intend to take those stupid walls down eventually, but it requires moving a lot of soil and building new retaining structures. I'd rather be wrenching... Thanks! |
euro911 |
Jun 26 2012, 11:25 AM
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#2
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,858 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
Use a 2x6 plank across the rear of the floor pan, under the firewall and jack in the center from the rear. Then place jack stands under the plank on each side. It'll help spread out the load.
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toolguy |
Jun 26 2012, 11:39 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 2-April 11 From: San Diego / El Cajon Member No.: 12,889 Region Association: Southern California |
For 40 plus years, I've been lifting the rear using a small 2x4 as a cushion and jacking under the intermediate plate of the transmission. . the front I use the front torsion bar tube cover. . .
Is there suppose to be something wrong with this ?? |
smj |
Jun 26 2012, 12:21 PM
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#4
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"Dude, Steve from Berkeley." Group: Members Posts: 591 Joined: 28-August 05 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 4,691 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks for the feedback!
Use a 2x6 plank across the rear of the floor pan, under the firewall and jack in the center from the rear. Then place jack stands under the plank on each side. It'll help spread out the load. I'll have to get out there and give this a try, maybe there's no clearance problem getting that far forward. But at first blush I didn't think I'd be able to position the jack, starting from the rear bumper, all the way up at/under the firewall. For 40 plus years, I've been lifting the rear using a small 2x4 as a cushion and jacking under the intermediate plate of the transmission. . the front I use the front torsion bar tube cover. . . Is there suppose to be something wrong with this ?? I think it's just an honest difference of opinion. From reading the past threads some folks don't think jacking via the transmission does the motor mounts any favors - some say it's not the kind of load they were designed to take. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) As you point out, others have done it for years/decades with no ill effects. I don't claim to know one way or the other, just figured I'd try to find someplace nobody saw a problem with. |
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