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> JOE's 2013 Hershey Emergency Thread, 5th ANNUAL
jsayre914
post Mar 15 2013, 02:13 PM
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And so it begins.

I have been driving the car every day since the 2056 went in. It goes from Baltimore To York PA multiple times a day. I drive kinda quick and really enjoy the power. Of course there have been hiccups along the way, trying to slow me down. IE clutch pedal pin sheering off, exhaust falling apart, SNOW (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) , and of course the usual D-Jet Gremlins. Until today.

I adjusted all the valves last week to spec "0" lash, timing is on point. Car is running awesome, comming down 83 when I get to the end of the expressway. Car starts running on 3 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) then I see the white smoke comming from seemingly under the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

Pull over and pop the lid, there is a solid quart of oil dripping from the top of the lid, spatter on the side of the bay (driverside) pool of oil on the engine shelf (driver side) and a pool of oil in the middle near the filler.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

I take it step by step, holding my chin up.

Wipe all oil away, remove breather box and check all vacume connections. AHHA! The connection from the passenger side port came off of the three way connector going to the air box. BUT WHY ! and why so much oil! and Why is number one no longer firing.

Closer inspection of #1 reveals the fuel pressure regulator in its position is soaked and dripping with oil from the bottom, but clean and dry on the top. Pull the plug wire and the plug is also dripping with oil from the top white area.

O.K. relax breathe

Go to pull the plug to have a peak.

NOPE

Will turn a 1/4 turn and then i can feel the extension start to flex. It is permantly attached to the head. I tried it all. S T U C K

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)



I have a great running 3 cylinder porsche, number one is dead. I have no idea what happend, what I do know is that i have verified spark right down to the plug by putting another plug inline to ground. Verified fuel (switching injectors) and I cant verify compression with a plug in the hole (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)



My Hershey Emergency is officially under way.

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jsayre914
post Mar 15 2013, 02:28 PM
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A Quick History of Hershey and Joseph for the Newbies


Emergency 2012

Emergency 2011

Emergency 2010

Emergency 2009

This is the

OFFICIAL 5th ANNUAL JOE's EMERGENCY THREAD
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Dr Evil
post Mar 15 2013, 06:23 PM
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Might as well take it back to Tony (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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struckn
post Mar 15 2013, 06:35 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 15 2013, 04:23 PM) *

Might as well take it back to Tony (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)



Man that sucks Joe. Hope you get it figured out but I have to agree, get some help from Tony to fix or at least lead you in the right direction to figure out where to start.
Weird that you can't get the plug out.

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VaccaRabite
post Mar 15 2013, 07:29 PM
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Okay...

You can turn the plug 1/4 turns.
Is there a heli-coil in that spark hole per chance? If so that could be binding.

Was the car making bad noises? Do you need help getting yourself or the car home?

Zach
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Elliot Cannon
post Mar 15 2013, 07:49 PM
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Worse case is, a valve head broke off, banged repeatedly against the spark plug thus peaning the spark plug to the head which could be the reason you can't remove the plug. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) If this is true, you will also have a nice hole in the top of the piston. I hope I'm wrong.
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VaccaRabite
post Mar 15 2013, 08:02 PM
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Just got off the phone with Joe.
The car is running on all 4 and climbing up i-83 rapidly. Oil pressure is good. Temps are good.

But he is still loosing #1 at idle.

He said that #1 intake runner is hot to the touch where the others are cool. Sounds to me like an intake valve is slightly stuck open. But he just did a valve adjustment and everything was as expected with the valves.

Zach
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Elliot Cannon
post Mar 16 2013, 10:44 AM
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At least it's running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) He said he adjusted to "0" lash. Could he have adjusted one too tight? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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r_towle
post Mar 16 2013, 10:49 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Mar 15 2013, 10:02 PM) *

But he just did a valve adjustment

Zach

Loosen them up.
better to hear the tick than burn a valve.

Hot intake runner, popping might be caused by a valve not closing all the way and hot gases going up instead of down.
rich
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VaccaRabite
post Mar 16 2013, 11:38 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 16 2013, 11:49 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Mar 15 2013, 10:02 PM) *

But he just did a valve adjustment

Zach

Loosen them up.
better to hear the tick than burn a valve.

Hot intake runner, popping might be caused by a valve not closing all the way and hot gases going up instead of down.
rich

This is my theory as well. only thing my feeble mind can think of that would explain what Joe is seeing.

Zach
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Woody
post Mar 16 2013, 11:58 AM
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saigon71
post Mar 16 2013, 12:37 PM
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Brutal news Joe and the timing for Hershey is impeccable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I don't understand the zero lash valve adjustment. Between air cooled VW's with solid lifters and T4 engines, I always thought there had to be some clearance with the enging cold. Does this change with a custom build?

I hope you get everything squared away. Keep us posted and let me know if you need a hand.
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rmital
post Mar 16 2013, 12:49 PM
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QUOTE(saigon71 @ Mar 16 2013, 02:37 PM) *

I don't understand the zero lash valve adjustment. Between air cooled VW's with solid lifters and T4 engines, I always thought there had to be some clearance with the enging cold. Does this change with a custom build?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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stugray
post Mar 16 2013, 12:50 PM
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If you use the Chromoly pushrods, then the lash is supposed to be zero.
With stock pushrods, zero lash would be engine suicide.

It sounds like something drove your crankcase ventilation pressure way too high and blew oil all over the engine bay.
That could be a failed exhaust valve guide (unlikely to happen abruptly to that extent) or a failed ring (more likely).

Sounds like SOMETHING came apart in cyl #1

Stu
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VaccaRabite
post Mar 16 2013, 12:53 PM
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Using chromolly steel pushrods allows you to set lash to 0.
Since aluminum grows and shrinks at a different rate then steel, and the cylinders are steel, you have to have slop in aluminum pushrods. With the steel rods, they expend at mostly the same rate, so you do not need to have a gap.

That said, you don't want to be tight either. Usually you run the stem in finger tight. trick is not to turn the stem any tighter when you close the lock nut.

Zach
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jsayre914
post Mar 20 2013, 04:15 PM
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Plug is stuck permanently (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) but its still firing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I checked the valves again and the intake valve on #1 was too tight just like you guys said. I backed it off 1 1/2 turn and got the adjustment. It fired right up and purrrrs again.

so now......

Why did the adjustment change ?

what caused the massive amount of oil on the tin ? (would a hose removed from the crankcase vent cause that amount of loss at high speed)

The intake adjuster is now tight against the rocker arm, this is a swivel foot adjuster and the arm was ground down to get the extra play. The play is now Gone. Is that a huge problem for now?

My car has since run to Baltimore and Back with no more oil loss or misfires.

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VaccaRabite
post Mar 20 2013, 05:56 PM
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Joe, please have Tony look at it.

That engine should last you for years. But if you flog it while somehting is failing it may only last you for months or weeks. At the very least do a compression an leakdown test to make sure its still in the ball park.

Zach
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 20 2013, 10:35 PM
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QUOTE(jsayre914 @ Mar 20 2013, 03:15 PM) *

The intake adjuster is now tight against the rocker arm, this is a swivel foot adjuster and the arm was ground down to get the extra play. The play is now Gone. Is that a huge problem for now?


Yes.

Could be a dropped seat. Could be a stretching valve. Neither of those things is anything you want to drive on. Not unless you like holes in the heads, the case, and so forth.

Could be less-dangerous stuff, but do you want to risk it?

Between the shrinking valve clearance and the plug that won't come out, I think the head needs to come off. Now.

--DD
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jsayre914
post Mar 21 2013, 01:02 PM
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I did not drive it today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Will drop it by Tony's so he can have a look.















(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad2.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 21 2013, 02:36 PM
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You feeling Ok, Joe? You never take advise that you ask for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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