Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny Options

[R_u_dd]

Blue Porscheru Conversion

I started this project back in May of 2014 and wanted to share the journey with my friends and family.
There's something appealing to people about taking a left-for-dead vehicle and bringing it back to life.
I hope this build thread is a bit different than the others. It's a Subaru conversion which is not as common.

I am/was a newbie. This is my first car restoration, if you can call it that.
My welds are not pretty, but I've improved and learned throughout this process.
This is a great car for a first restoration. It's light, simple, and very cool- mid engine with a targa top.

This is the plan- We are starting with a 1971 tangerine 914 with light to moderate rust, nothing too serious.
The original engine was a 1.7. Like so many other 914's it ran but has been sitting for a long time.
The engine seems too far gone to try to rebuild it= lots of rust and corrosion.

Powerplant: 2003 Subaru Impreza TS 2.5 SOHC, Natuaral- No Turbo, Why? Plenty of Power for me and no turbo lag. See Engine Choices thread.
Transmission: Subaru 5MT 2003 Impreza TS
ECU from: 2003 Subaru Impreza TS
Electronics: Wiring Harness simplified by Small Car Performance
Axles: 944 axles and CV's with Subaru inside CV- 4 lug for now.
914 suspension.
No fender flares
Voltage Blue Metallic: (Honda color), Painted Sail Panels.

Before Pictures

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The Future Look- Concepts

The 914 visualizer, a very cool app.

Current Look:

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Contents

Axles
Blasting Glass Bead Videos
Battery Tray Area
Battery and Tray
Budget Scenarios
Brakes
Bumper - Valence
Clutch
Electronics
Engine Discussion
Engine Mount
Engine Work
Floor Pans and Engman Kit
Fuel Pump
Fuel Tank (Cleaning with Electrolysis)
Paint Prep and Metal Work
Paint Prep Continued
Radiator
Seats and Interior
Seats Re-upholstery Links
Transmission
Transmission Mount
Videos

This thread is for entertainment purposes only. I am not a certified mechanic.
There are many that have pioneered the suby conversion before me, but this
is my story.

Hope you enjoy this thread!

Chris

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[R_u_dd]

Favorite Subaru Conversion Threads:

Subaru Engine Conversion Wiki - Ultimate How-to

Engine Conversions- What's Been Done- Basics of What's Needed

Tony's Subaru Conversion Thread- EJ 2.5- Tried radiator in engine bay

Zany's Restoration Thread- EJ2.5 and Subaru 5MT transmission

Subaru 6 E30R Conversion- Engine Only

Suby Engined Rustoration- Suby 2.2 Turbo- great thread

The Sawtooth Build Thread- Green Car- Subaru Engine and Transmission

Orange 75 Project- Suby engine and transmission.

'73 Resto & Suby Six Conversion

DB Cooper Subaru tranny into a 914

Out with the old and in with the Roo, 2.5L Subaru EJ253

Subydoo Subaru EJ205 Turbo and Suby Transmission


914-6 Builds:

Signal Orange, flared- Beautiful car (by iamchappy):

The official chappy 914-6-gt-turbo carrera thread, The car is real scary to drive, clutch is broke in, im not!

Scrap Metal to 904= Awesome Metal Work Epic Scrap Metal- An Idiots Guide to Saving a Fourteener

[R_u_dd]

Subaru Engine Choices - Notes from various posters

From another's Post "What you need to decide is what level of power you want. A 6 cylinder makes the car VERY quick and fast compared to stock.
Lots of fun as long as you are ready for the car to become a completely different animal. If you want the feel of an enhanced version of a stock 914 go with a 2.5."

Subaru EJ Engine Wikipedia:Subaru Engine Wiki.

Engines:

HP Weight lbs/hp
EJ22 130-160 265 1.96
EJ25 165-200 298 1.81
Ej20tt 240 275
EZ30DR 216-245 315 1.85
EG33 225-275 0.00


EJ18: Found in Imprezas from 1993-1997. Rated at 110hp and 120 ft-lbs
EJ22 Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1990-1998 and Imprezas from 1995-1998.
Comes rated at 130hp and 137 ft-lbs, 135hp and 140 ft-lbs, or 137hp and 145 ft-lbs.
EJ22 Phase II: Found in Legacies in 1999 and Imprezas from 1999-2001. Rated at 142hp and 149 ft-lbs.
EJ22-T Phase I: Found in Sport Sedan and Touring Wagons (Legacies) from 1990-1994.
Turbocharged and non-intercooled. Rated at 160hp and 181 ft-lbs. Closed
Closed deck, cast pistons, forged rods, oil squirters: turbo motor. Poor flowing heads.
EJ25 DOHC Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1996-1999, Imprezas in 1998, and Foresters in 1998.in 1997-1999.
Rated at either 155hp and 140 ft-lbs in 1996 or 165hp and 162 ft-lbs in 1997-1999.
EJ25 SOHC Phase II: Found in Legacies from 2000+, Imprezas from 1999+, and Foresters from 1999+.
Rated at 165hp and 166 ft-lbs. There was a slight compression ratio change from 1999-2000 where it went from 9.7:1 to 10.0:1.
USDM EJ20: US Domestic Market WRX. Found in 2002+ WRXs. Rated at 227hp and 217 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, open deck, and decent heads.
EJ25T DOHC: Available in 2004 in the Forester XT. Rated at 210hp and 235 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, VVTi (Variable Valve Timing), and drive by wire.
EJ25T-STi DOHC: Available in 2004 in the WRX STi. Rated at 300hp and 300 ft-lbs.
Turbocharged, intercooled, AVCS (Active Valve Control System), drive by wire, intercooler sprayer, and semi-closed design.
EZ30R: Canbus Electronics require an aftermarket ECU for $2,000 (Not)
Found in the 2005–2009 Legacy 3.0R, Outback 3.0R and 2006–2008 Tribeca.

EZ30D: found in 2000-2003 outback and legacy’s. At roughly 212 chp from the factory, it seems to have the lowest hp number of the bunch.
You can tell the difference between the others by the aluminum intake and its single exhaust port heads (looks like a long slot or oval)
as compared the later 6’s or the metal timing cover/size when compared to the eg33. It has two plus sides when compared to the latter EZ’s,
cheap drive by cable, non CANBUS and you can pick this up for around $1-2k. Furthermore the 212hp mark is deceiving, both the intake
and exhaust is extremely constricting on the donor car and from the swaps that have been done/dyno’d (in the Subaru world) just
upgrading to something less restrictive will put power up to 230-240 CHP.

The EZ30D (according to Ian from Coldwater914.com) ranks motor highest in comparison to the other options in this category. Due to its more modern design and timing chain
(that does not need to be service for the life of the engine) it is smaller/lighter and more reliable than the eg33. On the other hand the ECU
on the EZ30D substantially less expensive than the EZ30R and EZ36R. However to clarify it does not have the VVT or AVCS of the later EZ’s.


More on the EJ22..

The EJ22 engine is part of Subaru's EJ series that was intended to replace the EA series of engines. This particular engine was first used in 1990 in
the Subaru Legacy. It also saw use in the Outback from 1995 to 1996 and in the Impreza from 1995 to 2001. There are two generations of EJ22
available through the large inventory on eBay. The EJ221 is the first model and featured 135 boiler horsepower at 5,800 rpm. The EJ222 is the
second, starting production in 1999, and it featured 142 boiler horsepower at 5,600 rpm. All EJ series engines are horizontal flat-four cylinders
with 16 valves and both single and dual overhead camshaft configurations were produced. These engines feature two rows of two horizontally
opposed cylinders that help to balance one another while the engine is running. This makes for a smoother ride and a lighter engine as additional
balancing components are not required to keep the engine from knocking around while in operation. The EJ22 engine is efficient, reliable, and
contributes to the long life of many Subaru vehicles.

There are actually a couple different varients of EJ22's in terms of actual parts. Ive counted 4, each with different HP numbers.

Anyway, the single port heads are actually in the more recent models... 99-01 I believe. And there was discussion before about how the MY96 EJ22
had lighter weight rocker arms that might add horsepower to other model EJ22's, but thats kind of off topic...

Here are the HP/Torque numbers for various years:

99-01: Horsepower: 142 hp Max Horsepower: 5600 rpm Torque: 149 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 3600 rpm
97-98: Horsepower: 137 hp Max Horsepower: 5400 rpm Torque: 145 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4000 rpm
95-96: Horsepower: 135 hp Max Horsepower: 5400 rpm Torque: 140 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4400 rpm
93-94: Horsepower: 130 hp Max Horsepower: 5400 rpm Torque: 137 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4400 rpm

The bore and stroke are same on the 93-96 2.2's, 3.82x2.95 but the compression ratio is 9.7:1 for the 95-96 as opposed to 9.5:1 for the 93-94. T
he camshaft elevation is different between the two as well as the valve spring height. The main bearing journal diameter is different along
with the connecting rod journal diameter (slightly, .0001 difference). The piston ring gap bottom compression is different between the two.
I cant tell if any part numbers are different though, im just looking at specification numbers from my chiltons guide. Sucks there isnt a newer
guide for the other models though... Cant help past MY96

Links:

Subaru 2.X Build Thread on NASIOC

Franken Motor or Mix and Match various parts Engine Build Discussion NASIOC

Franken Motor- (2.2L heads on 2.5L Block)

franken motor shopping list 2.5 block with 2.2 heads

NA Horsepower

Subaru engine swap

How to pull a WRX engine

Engine Tear Down

I want to build a 2.x engine

"Built Motor Discussion" Links to Great Threads

Pull your own motor. Lots-o-pics

[aircooledtechguy]

Good stuff in here. Thanks.

I look forward to watching your car progress. . .

[Andyrew]

Great starter thread! Cant wait to see the work!

[R_u_dd]

Budget Planning 2015 costs

A good friend told me not to add up the costs. That was good advice. I think the cost is inversely proportional to a couple of things. Do you want a show car- probably not if your are converting to a suby? How much can you do yourself? How much time do you have, or how quick do you want it. Because, I find myself skipping some of the more difficult processes and farming them out, but that's expensive. I had my wiring harness done by the pro's. That's one I don't have the time, or is too important to get wrong. The other is paining. I want the paint and body work to look right, so that's going to the pros as well. Also, the brakes and electronics- I'm going to get help with those. Here's a spreadsheet that I put together with most costs I anticipate at this point. My path is in the left column, but depending on the transmission and engine, costs vary. These are not completely accurate, ie the engine rebuild would be more expensive. But, I wanted to do a relative comparison, so the numbers compare within the various systems chosen. Also, this is not a show car, just something that will be reliable, fun and look nice.

Edit 2017: I'm now $16,000 into this project and still have not started the car. Soon though. Just goes to prove the theory about doubling your budget to get the real cost over the expected cost.

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[mepstein]

Paint for $1000 - ? Missing a "0"? Just curious.

[R_u_dd]

Floor Pans

One of the first tasks was to replace the floor pans. I tried to save the old ones, but they were just too far gone. Some of the parts were usable, like the pedal cluster support and the jack stand supports. Those were removed and welded to the new floor pans. This was all done on my back underneath floor jacks, not recommended. If you want to dive right in and build your car without building a rotisserie, you are saving time now but will work much harder and lose time in the end...

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The left side- worst part

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The cabin. Tried cutting out portions, but the cancer kept showing up in pinholes everywhere. Sound familiar?

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View from below:

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I sprayed the floor pans with epoxy paint. They were purchased in front and back halves because I had trouble finding a single piece and I thought it would be easier to install- not having a rotisserie. Not a bad move looking back, but more welding.

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Saved some old parts and strengthened with extra metal.

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Looking back, these welds are so embarrassing. Not hot enough. I have learned a lot since.

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This piece keeps you from punching through the floor with your foot

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Ugly welds, I know. I thought about an ugly weld thread contest. Who makes the ugliest welds. Getting better though.

Epoxy primer, etching primer, and seem sealer oh my! Incidently, I had to grind this back off, redrill the holes and weld it back because I was off just enough that the pedal cluster did not line up correctly. Recommend welding this on after the floor pans are welded to the car. Measure thrice, cut once.

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Rear panel in and Engman Kit with new metal braces sleeved over the old ones. Hope the seats still fit.

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It helps to have small helpers.

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And he does good work:

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The firewall behind the seat was a chore with the gummy glue adhering the sound barrier. Bead blasting is the way to go- cheap, great results, fast...

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A few extra brackets to tie the Engman kit to the floor pan for added strength. Already much better welds although I did not need to weld the entire length of those brackets. It's better to leave open spots for flexing. Otherwise, the metal can crack.

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Jumping ahead a few months, the finished floor pans with car torn down for painting after bead blasting and first coat of epoxy primer, but we'll get to that.

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[R_u_dd]

Paint for $1000 - ? Missing a "0"? Just curious.

If you do everything yourself, paints only about $300. You will notice that I used $1000 across the board. It's a relative comparison between using the type 4 engine with 901 tranny compared to the suby with 901 and suby with 5MT, so what I wanted to know was the difference in the paths I take to get there.

In reality, I am spending $1070 on bead blasting and first primer, $1,300 on finishing body work, and final priming, and will receive the bid shortly for the painting labor.

Some people spend $4,000 on just the paining step, but that's a lotta dough.

CR

[R_u_dd]

Electronics

When you think about it...

it's pretty crazy to mate two wiring harnesses together to try to make the 914 work.

People keep telling me it's not that hard when you get the wiring diagrams together and separate the fuel injection and ecu from the 914 wiring.
We will see. At this point I have collected the wiring diagrams from the 914 and the Chilton's guides from each car.

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Useful Links:

Pelican Parts Wiring Diagrams

Jeff Bowlsby has a ton of great information on his webpage on wiring harnesses,
diagrams, and sketches. He also rebuilds 914 harnesses.

Jeff Bowlsby's Technical notebook, an amazing resource for diagrams/sketches.

The guys at Outfront Motorsports will build custom harnesses with the EMS stinger.

Small Car Performance stripped my Subaru harness and provided me with the shortened oil pan and engine mount.
=Search]Small Car Harness Modification Page.

Small Car Performance harness modification kit

Small Car guide to Subaru engines. Which have immobilizers, which to choose when
deciding on a donor engine.

Subaru wiring diagrams for conversion

How to route your wiring in the 914.

For the do-it-yourselfer, I have found portions of these threads very useful:

1. Strawman build wiring information
   
2. Tony's Project
   
3. More to come...

I researched types of ECU's and decided to go with the stock ECU for my engine, a 2003 Impreza TS.
This ECU is programmable and can plug into a computer (term).

Here's some pictures of my wiring stripped out of the Porsche.
At the time, I had no idea how much of this I would be using
with the Subaru harness. Beside the 914 ECU and wires to the
engine, I will be using most of this wiring with the stripped down
Suby harness.

Subaru Harness. I wonder how many feet of wires go into this?

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Speedo labeled. Unfortunately, using the Suby tranny, I won't be able to reuse the classic speedometer, although there is a guy who converts these to use the Subaru.
(Look for Link)

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Another Speedo Pic. Look for Jeff Bowlsby's Tech notes linked above
for some sketches of the wiring diagrams for this.

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Again, Jeff has these all sketched out.

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The plan is to update the corroded fuse box...

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Update to something like this:

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I worked with Mao of Small Car Performance for the Subaru wiring harness.
First I ordered the harness from Ebay, which came in a large box, weighing
about 40 pounds. It was shipped to Small Car in Washington State and returned
in about a week, weighing maybe 10 pounds, and everything labeled. I had shipped
them the ECU with the harness.

Update:

It's time to get back to the wiring. We are going to replace the 914 portion of the wiring harness with new wiring and new technology. The fuse box will be replaced with blade fuses. The old wiring features multiple grounds where it's not necessary, multiple fuses for the lights and poses other issues. We thought it easier to start over. The speedometer will be replaced internally with a new VDO speedo run electronically. Here's a picture of three harnesses, the old 914, new harness, and Subaru portion.

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[Andyrew]

Paint for $1000 - ? Missing a "0"? Just curious.

Mayco will do it for that, or its more than enough for supplies for a diy job with cheap paint (tcpglobal)

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Another frigging Subarite! Welcome to the Fraternal Order of Blasphemous Conversions. BTW, you can paint that thing for < $300 if you like any of the single stage that Tractor Supply sells. It's decent paint but no Porsche colours. Your way over priced on a few items (shifter and cooling comes to mind) but that is good because you will need it elsewhere. I like the 2.5 and almost went that route so I will be watching your build with interest. It should be WRX fast when done. You'll absolutely love the big alternator, cable shift and the reliability of modern electronics. Did Mel (Mao's American name) give you the OBD port with his harness? He wasn't making then when I made mine. You may have saved your marriage and 1/2 of your sanity by farming that out. Good call. FWIW, you may want to look at one of these which run 355's. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/5108058296.html. I'm still thinking about one. My TY7554VN2A is running 411's but If I had 355's I could idle at 50mph. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rhodyguy]

Wow! Great thread. Warrants a trip to the 'classic' when it wraps up. You have know idea how much time you have saved me when it's new engine time for the outback. Could be October. Who knows.

[R_u_dd]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Another frigging Subarite! Welcome to the Fraternal Order of Blasphemous Conversions. BTW, you can paint that thing for < $300 if you like any of the single stage that Tractor Supply sells. It's decent paint but no Porsche colours. Your way over priced on a few items (shifter and cooling comes to mind) but that is good because you will need it elsewhere. I like the 2.5 and almost went that route so I will be watching your build with interest. It should be WRX fast when done. You'll absolutely love the big alternator, cable shift and the reliability of modern electronics. Did Mel (Mao's American name) give you the OBD port with his harness? He wasn't making then when I made mine. You may have saved your marriage and 1/2 of your sanity by farming that out. Good call. FWIW, you may want to look at one of these which run 355's. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/5108058296.html. I'm still thinking about one. My TY7554VN2A is running 411's but If I had 355's I could idle at 50mph. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanks for the encouragement and suggestions.

As for the transmission, I went for the matching transmission pulled from the same 2003 Impreza TS shipped from Canada with the original ECU. I was concerned about the rpm's on the freeway being too high, but I think I will be alright. Calculating the rpm speed and gear ratios is another post in itself... maybe for the future.

One of the points of the budget is to see where you beat the budget, so hopefully everything comes in cheaper. The problem is there is a lot of stuff not on the list, like LED light upgrades. My budget is just that. If I want to use tractor paint, that's fine, but it's just a way to organize, a suggestion of the way others may want to set theirs up.

Check out the engine in my Christmas in April thread.

I too like the 2.5. Hopefully with headers, I can get 175 HP.

Looks like the OBD was saved out of the Suby Harness. Peace...

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[Mike Bellis]

Grafting two electrical systems is not that hard if you know how. I did it but I was an aircraft electrician in the Marine Corps and working in the trade for 25 years.

Admittedly mine was German to German and that's a little easier. But I have the donor dash cluster, ODBII and drive by wire throttle.

[JRust]

Just for a reference. I bought the Sawtooth build from Dean. It has a 2001 SOHC NA 2.5 with a performance build & performance heads. Running an aftermarket Stinger ECU from Outfront. Equal length header to a single exhaust. It dyno'd at 158 to the rear wheels. It pulls great & I love driving it. So just wanted to get realistic HP numbers for you. It's fine seeing it on paper in places. It always seems to drop in the real world application though.

On all your welding of your floors & long kit. I have not seen any type of door brace. It's pretty easy to get a twist in your chassis or mess up your door gaps. Just hoping you did in fact have it braced with all your welding. If not I'll keep my fingers crossed it is all good. Looks like you did a good job installing the floors. Really great progress on your car bud. Following your thread closely (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

Read the first half of my progress thread for painting tips and expeced costs. I typically budget about 750 for supplies. Thats a gallon of paint, 2-3 gallons of primer, 2 gallons of plastic filler, 2 quarts of glazing putty, about 100 in sandpaper and consumables for rubbing it out. Actual paint is less than 200 single stage shipped.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Restoration-Shop/

Click the color you want then click "AU Urethane" then single stage kit.

Shipping is like 50 bucks though because its hazardous. When I get to the pojnt of ordering I go through the site and load up on everything I need as its quality as as cheap as it comes. I also think you get a shipping break over a certain $$$.

[R_u_dd]

Just for a reference. I bought the Sawtooth build from Dean. It has a 2001 SOHC NA 2.5 with a performance build & performance heads. Running an aftermarket Stinger ECU from Outfront. Equal length header to a single exhaust. It dyno'd at 158 to the rear wheels. It pulls great & I love driving it. So just wanted to get realistic HP numbers for you. It's fine seeing it on paper in places. It always seems to drop in the real world application though.

On all your welding of your floors & long kit. I have not seen any type of door brace. It's pretty easy to get a twist in your chassis or mess up your door gaps. Just hoping you did in fact have it braced with all your welding. If not I'll keep my fingers crossed it is all good. Looks like you did a good job installing the floors. Really great progress on your car bud. Following your thread closely (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The HP should be double the original car regardless of what I end up with at the wheels. If the original engine was rated at 80, and the new engine is rated at 165. I would assume both engines would lose a proportional amount of horsepower in the drive lines.

I was very careful on the welding. The car had bigger issues though to start with since it had been hit a couple times (and covered with bondo). The gaps are definitely off, but it's not a show car. My body guy has some tricks up his sleeve to fix this though...

My gaffes are worse then my gaps though...

[R_u_dd]

Read the first half of my progress thread for painting tips and expeced costs. I typically budget about 750 for supplies. Thats a gallon of paint, 2-3 gallons of primer, 2 gallons of plastic filler, 2 quarts of glazing putty, about 100 in sandpaper and consumables for rubbing it out. Actual paint is less than 200 single stage shipped.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Restoration-Shop/

Click the color you want then click "AU Urethane" then single stage kit.

Shipping is like 50 bucks though because its hazardous. When I get to the pojnt of ordering I go through the site and load up on everything I need as its quality as as cheap as it comes. I also think you get a shipping break over a certain $$$.

We're probably going to go with a local paint store and 2 stage paint. Paint will come in about $500.

I really like your thread (link in signature line of your post). Taking interest in your radiator mounting. Where's the fill cap?

[DBCooper]

I would assume both engines would lose a proportional amount of horsepower in the drive lines.

You're going to be in for a pleasant surprise. Engine's have evolved a lot since the 60's but transmissions have evolved as much or more. Manufacturers are looking for better MPG anywhere they can find it, so drive-line losses that used to be to 25 percent or more are now down to 15 percent or less. Better mileage is good, of course, but more important is that it'll feel like almost triple the horsepower instead of double. So it's going to be even more fun than you thought! Bonus!!