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> Distributor Pull, /6
EdwardBlume
post Nov 1 2015, 10:26 PM
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I need to pull the distributor on the 2.4 /6, but it won't come out. I have it at TDC #1, with the rotor pointing at 1. Took the bolt off the adjuster and can move it back and forth, but the whole assembly will not come up and out.

Any ideas?
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matthepcat
post Nov 1 2015, 11:31 PM
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Crowbar and a rubber hammer?

I have seen some rennlist post about that method being effective. Apparently it's common for distributors to get stuck on.
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porschetub
post Nov 2 2015, 01:41 AM
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QUOTE(RobW @ Nov 2 2015, 05:26 PM) *

I need to pull the distributor on the 2.4 /6, but it won't come out. I have it at TDC #1, with the rotor pointing at 1. Took the bolt off the adjuster and can move it back and forth, but the whole assembly will not come up and out.

Any ideas?


reach in there with the base plate done up (case nut off ) and work a fine screwdriver under there ,the shaft seal is stuck,sorry but you have to be a little rough ,I think the Pelican part seal for most 914's is the same but not 100% sure.
I think you mentioned on you had an issue with yours sticking up ,Iam thinking your advance plate is gummed up so try a good spray of brake cleaner before you take it apart...may work,hope so because parts are hard to find, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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kconway
post Nov 2 2015, 03:04 PM
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Rob,
As I mentioned, that distro was reworked/rebuilt by Barry Hershon at flat6recurve.com/. He advanced the timing to account for carbs and completely rebuilt the thing. I'm very surprised the advance plate is sticking. What I don't remember is if I had it set up for points or not.
Kev
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colingreene
post Nov 2 2015, 04:26 PM
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Mine took a small bar and some intense wiggling. Thats eventually what pushed it out.
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EdwardBlume
post Nov 2 2015, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE(kconway @ Nov 2 2015, 01:04 PM) *

Rob,
As I mentioned, that distro was reworked/rebuilt by Barry Hershon at flat6recurve.com/. He advanced the timing to account for carbs and completely rebuilt the thing. I'm very surprised the advance plate is sticking. What I don't remember is if I had it set up for points or not.
Kev

Yeah, it's totally sticking. Virtually undrivable. Coming off of throttle it takes anywhere from 2-6 seconds to drop to idle. Weak springs? No dust shield either.

You had it set up for Petronix but I went back to points.
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EdwardBlume
post Nov 2 2015, 07:29 PM
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Runs fine otherwise though specially after the carb rebuild.

Thanks again,
Rob
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r_towle
post Nov 2 2015, 07:36 PM
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Did you possibly use a screw that is too long for the points that is now rubbing on the lower plate? It happens (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Otherwise, get in ther, put both feet on the motor and pull harder.
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EdwardBlume
post Nov 2 2015, 09:57 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Nov 2 2015, 05:36 PM) *

Did you possibly use a screw that is too long for the points that is now rubbing on the lower plate? It happens (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Otherwise, get in ther, put both feet on the motor and pull harder.

Advance was 26-27 degrees. Should be 32-34 for total advance for carbs right?
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r_towle
post Nov 2 2015, 10:01 PM
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It's not the advance, it's the two plates can rub together and bind up.
Using the wrong screw to hold down the points will do that.

See if they move easily.
Remove any vacuum advance arm and see if you can flick them to full advance and back again, with no friction.

It may be simple, like a screw that is too long..
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 2 2015, 10:14 PM
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QUOTE(RobW @ Nov 2 2015, 06:27 PM) *

You had it set up for Petronix but I went back to points.

Why? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

points suck
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colingreene
post Nov 5 2015, 01:32 AM
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Mike, I have had no problemi with points.
In fact the Petronix caused me constant problems on two cars.
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mskala
post Nov 5 2015, 07:04 AM
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For somebody handy with a soldering iron, you can buy the Crane optical trigger
without their ignition, add 2 parts and the power wire you would need for pertronix,
and have a near bulletproof optical system.

I personally didn't have any pertronix problems, but I think it is impossible to get
as accurate timing with the the magnet wheel as opposed to the slotted wheel, due
to manufacturing.
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bcheney
post Nov 5 2015, 03:33 PM
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QUOTE(mskala @ Nov 5 2015, 08:04 AM) *

For somebody handy with a soldering iron, you can buy the Crane optical trigger
without their ignition, add 2 parts and the power wire you would need for pertronix,
and have a near bulletproof optical system.

I personally didn't have any pertronix problems, but I think it is impossible to get
as accurate timing with the the magnet wheel as opposed to the slotted wheel, due
to manufacturing.


Would be interested to hear more about this system...are the parts to use and steps to follow posted somewhere? I am running distributor with points on my 2.2 six conversion and haven't had problems yet...I do like the sound of a more modern optical system that is almost bulletproof..
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mskala
post Nov 6 2015, 07:19 PM
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QUOTE(bcheney @ Nov 5 2015, 04:33 PM) *

QUOTE(mskala @ Nov 5 2015, 08:04 AM) *

For somebody handy with a soldering iron, you can buy the Crane optical trigger
without their ignition, add 2 parts and the power wire you would need for pertronix,
and have a near bulletproof optical system.

I personally didn't have any pertronix problems, but I think it is impossible to get
as accurate timing with the the magnet wheel as opposed to the slotted wheel, due
to manufacturing.


Would be interested to hear more about this system...are the parts to use and steps to follow posted somewhere? I am running distributor with points on my 2.2 six conversion and haven't had problems yet...I do like the sound of a more modern optical system that is almost bulletproof..


This is the original write-up, should have everything you need to know
Optical system description on Pelican
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