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> How Do You Remove An Early Shift Rod, Need Some Bushings
7TPorsh
post Jan 20 2016, 01:45 PM
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I had a hell of a time getting the header in with this shift rod in place. I have an exhaust leak on #1 and want to fix it easily. Rather than fuss with limited clearance and space, I want to remove the shift rod so I can just unbolt all four ports and re-install in one piece rather than one tube at a time.

How can I remove the rod; hopefully with simple tools.

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Series9
post Jan 20 2016, 03:49 PM
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QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jan 20 2016, 02:45 PM) *

I had a hell of a time getting the header in with this shift rod in place. I have an exhaust leak on #1 and want to fix it easily. Rather than fuss with limited clearance and space, I want to remove the shift rod so I can just unbolt all four ports and re-install in one piece rather than one tube at a time.

How can I remove the rod; hopefully with simple tools.

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Undo the "ball socket" at the firewall (the ball fitting unscrews from the firewall) and undo the two bolts holding the bracket for the bushing at the rear. You should then be able to maneuver the rod out of the bay.

Damn, it's been a long time since I've seen a /4 tail-shift....
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stugray
post Jan 20 2016, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE(Series9 @ Jan 20 2016, 02:49 PM) *

QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jan 20 2016, 02:45 PM) *

I had a hell of a time getting the header in with this shift rod in place. I have an exhaust leak on #1 and want to fix it easily. Rather than fuss with limited clearance and space, I want to remove the shift rod so I can just unbolt all four ports and re-install in one piece rather than one tube at a time.

How can I remove the rod; hopefully with simple tools.

Attached Image




Undo the "ball socket" at the firewall (the ball fitting unscrews from the firewall) and undo the two bolts holding the bracket for the bushing at the rear. You should then be able to maneuver the rod out of the bay.

Damn, it's been a long time since I've seen a /4 tail-shift....


You have it right. The bracket in the rear bolts to the transaxle with 2X 10mm nuts that hold the bracket onto 2 studs in the trans case.
Slide that bracket forward and lift the rear finger out of the shift lever.
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7TPorsh
post Jan 21 2016, 11:12 AM
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Thanks guys, going to try it this weekend!
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7TPorsh
post Jan 21 2016, 04:50 PM
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Is there any bushing or sleeve/washer that I should replace since "I'm going in there anyways"?
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7TPorsh
post Jan 21 2016, 04:51 PM
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Is there any bushing or sleeve/washer that I should replace since "I'm going in there anyways"?
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7TPorsh
post Jan 31 2016, 05:06 PM
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I've got the rear linkage undone so the rod is hanging and moving around.

At the firewall....there is no connection. The rod elbows into the ball socket and the socket piece disappears into the firewall. I need some more direction here. thx
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rhodyguy
post Jan 31 2016, 06:46 PM
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The pivot ball stem unscrews from the firewall. Like joe said. Replace the rear carrier bushing and examine the pivot ball on the stem. If you uncouple any of the rods index your current settings with a fine tip sharpie at the connection points. Look at the linkage illustrations in your Haynes.
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7TPorsh
post Jan 31 2016, 07:29 PM
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So do i unscrew the entire rod?

Still confused. Here is a diagram. How do 46 and 50 connect? the ball
is loose? Is 51 holding it in?

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rhodyguy
post Jan 31 2016, 09:03 PM
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#51 IS the stem. The stem is threaded on the firewall side and it screws in. A plastic ball is pressed on it. That stem ball has no # in the diagram. It is the same item as #53. there are 2 of them. To do it right you will also need #6, #34x3 and inspect your shifter assem off the car. 3 bolts and it lifts out. You have to do this for #6 anyway. #13 is key and is worth the minor cost if yours is worn. It can make a HUGE improvement with regards to 1&R. examine the shift lever at the point #13 contacts the lever for wear/cutting. Clean all the gunk off of the inside of the shifter base. Do it ALL! Really. Spare yourself major frustration. Doing it piece meal and you're taking stuff apart newmerous times. It gets old. Quickly. Go to our favorite part retailers and see what they offer. If a 'complete' kit is offered get one.
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7TPorsh
post Feb 16 2016, 11:59 AM
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Managed to get the rod off and the header out. Gather parts before the install. Looking for these two parts. i think 914Rubber has #48 one but I need #49 ??

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stugray
post Feb 16 2016, 01:11 PM
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QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Feb 16 2016, 10:59 AM) *

Managed to get the rod off and the header out. Gather parts before the install. Looking for these two parts. i think 914Rubber has #48 one but I need #49 ??

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I have extras of those parts if you cant find them. I don't need them as I converted to side shift.
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7TPorsh
post Feb 16 2016, 05:06 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Feb 16 2016, 11:11 AM) *

QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Feb 16 2016, 10:59 AM) *

Managed to get the rod off and the header out. Gather parts before the install. Looking for these two parts. i think 914Rubber has #48 one but I need #49 ??

Attached Image


I have extras of those parts if you cant find them. I don't need them as I converted to side shift.


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