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> ovaling of the rear suspention ear, +installation tips on rear susp bushings
ChrisReale
post Jan 30 2003, 07:40 PM
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I fear my right rear suspention ear has been ovaled due to rubbing of the trailing arm shaft and the ear. With the rear jacked up I can move the wheel back and forth. Not much, but I see the trailing arm moving at the ear. I want to catch this before it gets more serious. How much would it cost to fix the ear hole? Is this something I can do in my garage, or should I let the pro's do it? I "might" have access to a welder, but I dont have access to experience.... :toilet:
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Bleyseng
post Jan 30 2003, 08:05 PM
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The oval shape is supposed to be there, Chris. Part of the autochamber adjusting feature if I remember correctly.

I can bring my MIG welder and mini grinder but you are going to have to find a ream the right size for the hole. Try Hardwicks off Roosevelt Ave and 42 ave NE as they seem to have damn near everything else.
Did you squeeze Dave's 914 into the other bay in your garage? If I drag my welder around I want to do the passenger floor pan at the same time on his car. Where are you buying me dinner at if I come over?

I got one week left......free.

Geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ChrisReale
post Jan 30 2003, 08:15 PM
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If it is supposed to be oval, why is there movement at the nut and shaft? Dave's car is not here yet. I am cleaning out the garage this weekend, so sometime next week it will be there. If your girlfriend comes home before the welding gets done, maybe you can sneak out... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)-style
You like burrito's? Taqueria Guymas in West Seattle junction is awsome. Carne Asada burrito, a Pacifico cervesa, a side of fresh salsa verde..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
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Dave Cawdrey
post Jan 30 2003, 08:45 PM
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Well, my dad finally caved. I moved the 914 today. Found out, my dad is cleaning out our garage for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) , and the Porsche goes in there soon.

Thanks again, Chris. I think your generosity has made my dad second guess his actions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Bleyseng
post Jan 30 2003, 09:20 PM
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Hey, if I have to drag the welder to Fremont to weld your floor you gonna buy dinner from Pesao that Carribean place??
Food is what gets me to do stuff.....
Geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 30 2003, 10:43 PM
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One thing I've heard of people doing in this circumstance is welding a hardened washer over the now-ovaled hole. I don't recall if the hole in the washer is then reamed to size, or if it is left as-is.

--DD
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ChrisReale
post Jan 30 2003, 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the tip Dave.
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Brad Roberts
post Jan 30 2003, 11:47 PM
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The washer ends up not allowing your "lock nut" to lock. Not enough threads. The only people doing this are the ones who dont fix it correctly by welding it up and reaming it to size. The nut has its locking portion at the very end of the nut. You would end up with a rounded out washer in a few months.

B
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Dave Cawdrey
post Jan 31 2003, 12:21 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Lock-tite!!! Thats what we did on mine, for the tow. Might only be temp.
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Tony C
post Jan 31 2003, 12:24 AM
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The "proper" way to fix it is to weld the hole and re-drill it. See the two pics below. This is what happens when you have 400ftlbs of torque and improperly installed poly bushings!

before

(IMG:http://www.tcdesignfab.com/9148-12.jpg)

and after

(IMG:http://www.tcdesignfab.com/9148-7.jpg)

-Tony
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Brad Roberts
post Jan 31 2003, 12:31 AM
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Tony (in my redneck dialec) what kind a shiny heat exchangers are those next to the warbled out hole ?? Them there sure is pretty.

I'm leaving tomorrow at 9:30 am.

B
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Tony C
post Jan 31 2003, 12:35 AM
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Them there's are the Hooker Header heat exchangers!

I will try and be there by 9:30 to give you the 993 stuff, give or take a few Starbucks minutes.

-TC
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Bleyseng
post Jan 31 2003, 12:57 AM
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Looks like you need to git reamed, Chris....lots of fun welding that kind of stuff too and the grinding is the good part!
Better start lookin for that ream! I don't think I wanna try drilling that out with a Hole Hawg as it looks like a knuckle buster.
Geoff
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Tony C
post Jan 31 2003, 09:35 AM
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A Unibit works great, it is nice and short and will provide a nice clean, burr free hole.

-Tony
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Bleyseng
post Jan 31 2003, 10:12 AM
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Thanks Tony!

Geoff
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cha914
post Jan 31 2003, 10:50 AM
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so, how does one install poly bushings incorrectly that makes this happen?

-Tony

who is now parinoid after installing his new poly bushings
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Tony C
post Jan 31 2003, 12:14 PM
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The poly bushings are too long and do not allow the center rod to bottom out on the mounting ear. Without the center rod bottoming out it allows the trailing arm to move around under force. The fix when installing the bushings is to grind/shave/file a little off each end of the OUTSIDE of the bushings. Don't over do it though, just enough that it bottoms out.

-Tony
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cha914
post Jan 31 2003, 02:01 PM
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damn...and I just thought I was almost done...

I noticed that when installing them in the control arm, but I thought it would compress in when I mounted the arms to the car ...

oh well...whats another night in the garage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Thanks,

Tony
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ChrisFoley
post Feb 1 2003, 08:29 AM
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If you don't trim the ends of the bushings to fit properly, it will negate any improvement from running the hard bushings. Not only will it ruin the mounting ear, but the trailing arm will bind, badly. The polygraphite is not compressible!
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Bleyseng
post Feb 1 2003, 09:59 AM
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So how much are you talking to trim off the bushing??

Geoff
Still working on putting the front back together
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