Rear alignment adjustments? Options

[mike_the_man]

Hi all,

I was attempting to do a home alignment on my 914 this weekend (what a pain in the arse!). When I got to the rear to adjust the toe, I crawled under to loosen the 3 bolts holding the trailing arm on.

Two of the bolts were a standard 15mm, but one was what looks to be a 12 point Torx type thingy. Is this correct? Does anybody know what size 12point bit I need? Should it even be there? Or am I looking at the wrong bolts altogether (I'm pretty sure I'm not)? I have the 12 point CV tool, but I think this one is bigger. So, whats the dealio?

[mike_the_man]

Somebody, anybody???

[brant]

The only ones I've seen were all standard metric heads...
I think somebody changed one of yours

(sorry that is not more helpful)

Often when you have a big stack of shims in there you need a longer than stock bolt, perhaps the previous owner found a longer bolt?

[black73]

Mine has three 15mm bolts.

[mike_the_man]

Damn. Thats kinda what I expected. I'll have to figure out some way to get them out I guess. Damn PO's (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)

[Joseph Mills]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

Some PO changed a bolt on ya.

It is recommended to apply some penetrating oil up above the bolts to help loosen bolts that may have not been removed in many years. There may be some plastic caps on top to be removed.

Spray some carb cleaner underneath to clean up underneath where the bolts are. You will notice a small L-shaped plate the 3 bolts go through. Take some white primer spray paint and paint around the L.

Now when you loosen & move everything, and really screw it all up (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

you'll know where to move it all back to.

With the chassis slightly jacked to remove some weight off the wheel, you can move the location of the trailing arms by pushing/pulling on the tire once the bolts are loose.

If you're doing some home alone string alignment, remember the front and rear has different track widths.

[TimT]

Align the rear of the car first. If using strings, find center on the chassis, and set the stirng parallelbased on the rear, then set rear camber, then rear toe, then play with the front.

[mike_the_man]

Thanks everybody. It's actually pretty clean under there, and the two standard 15mm bolts loosened without too much trouble. It's this stupid 12 point torx head that's going to give me trouble. I've decided I'm not going to bother trying to align myself, but I'd like to make sure all of the bolts can loosen to make it easier for the shop. I've got it booked for Thursday, so hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to get the 12 points out and replace them with 15mm bolts.

[scotty914]

vise grips and heat

[Joseph Mills]

QUOTE (mike_the_man @ May 9 2005, 04:40 PM)

I've decided I'm not going to bother trying to align myself, but I'd like to make sure all of the bolts can loosen to make it easier for the shop.  I've got it booked for Thursday, so hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to get the 12 points out and replace them with 15mm bolts.

Are you taking it to a Porsche shop? Run of the mill alignment shops won't have a clue what to do with your car.

You may need to furnish your own camber plates for even a P-shop.

Myself, I'd let the shop worry about removing the torx bolts. You could furnish your own replacement bolts. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

[mike_the_man]

We don't have any "Porsche" shops around here. These guys claim they can do it, although I'm a little skeptical. They told me $50 for a 4 wheel alignment, which is pretty cheap, so I figured I'd let them have a go. The mechanic said that if there are any sticky bolts, then they start charging by the hour, and it could get expensive, so I want to make sure all of the bolts can be loosened, and make it as easy as possible for them.

By camber plates, do you mean the shims? I've got a few extras, which will hopefully be enough.