Help me set up these Webers, Basic Weber questions Options

[MikeK]

Hi friends. I'm currently installing some Weber clones on my 70 and have run into some issues. I'm using a CB linkage and filter bases. I tried installing the carbs with the linkage to the rear of the car, but the drop links hit the torsion springs used on the trunk. I flipped the bases so the crossbar is towards the front of the car, but the linkage needs to rotate counter-clockwise (see photo) in order to operate the carbs. I guess I could run the throttle arm on the top of the linkage and pull it that way, but I would prefer the arm to be in the down position. I was thinking maybe a custom cable which would be longer and come in from the back or perhaps some kind of lever to reverse the rotation?

I don't know, but I'm sure this has been dealt with in the past. Just looking for an elegant solution. As a side note, tall air cleaners most definitely don't fit the passengers side.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727464006.1.jpg)

Thanks in advance.

[NARP74]

The tangerine solution is elegant if it fits your budget. I have mine roughly like you do, not the same bar though. There are some different accel cable mounts to help out too.
Maybe more pics will show up.

[technicalninja]

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...

[dtmehall]

I have an old CB (back then Claudes Buggies) linkage and setup. I am running Weber 40's

They only help I can give you is that I ditched the torsion bars on use shock trunk supports.

It has worked fin for many years

[Jack Standz]

Move the bracket on the cross bar to something like this one (or get just get shorter intake manifolds):

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/lofiversion/i...php?t43028.html
Scroll down the thread in the post to see several options.

However, I agree with the other posters that the Tangerine Racing solution is a lot better (once you go through the pain of installing it, as it's not a simple bolt-on part). No longer use cross bar linkage.

[barefoot]

Here's my set-up. i had to flip the linkage around also, works well.

[MikeK]

The tangerine solution is elegant if it fits your budget. I have mine roughly like you do, not the same bar though. There are some different accel cable mounts to help out too.
Maybe more pics will show up.

The sync-link setup looks great, but I'm just trying to get this thing running on a budget. The manifolds were a gift from a friend, I've got a 009 I can modify to get it close and I was even gifted a linkage setup, though it was a little sloppy for my taste. This is a new, CB setup.

[MikeK]

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...

The standard jetting and venturis supplied with the carbs area good starting point. It has 28mm venturis. These carbs were about $75 each on Ebay. I've gone through them, set the floats to 12mm, checked jet sizes, lube and lock-tighted everything and reassembled. The only complaints that I have so far is that the emulsion tubes are drilled perpendicular to the tube and not at an angle, like OG Webers are. I'm going to give it a try and worst case scenario is that I stick in some new F11's.

Here's what it came with:
200 Air correction
F11 Emulsion tubes
115 Mains
50 Idles

[MikeK]

I have an old CB (back then Claudes Buggies) linkage and setup. I am running Weber 40's

They only help I can give you is that I ditched the torsion bars on use shock trunk supports.

It has worked fin for many years

That's a solution, but I'd like to try to keep the torsion springs, if possible.

[MikeK]

Move the bracket on the cross bar to something like this one (or get just get shorter intake manifolds):

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/lofiversion/i...php?t43028.html
Scroll down the thread in the post to see several options.

However, I agree with the other posters that the Tangerine Racing solution is a lot better (once you go through the pain of installing it, as it's not a simple bolt-on part). No longer use cross bar linkage.

I thought of putting the pull arm on top. but I just don't care for the look. Maybe it's all the time I spend around non-mittlemotor cars. It just looks kind of weird and clunky to me...but it works!

After looking at some of the setups in the photos, especially the one with the UNI filters, it makes me wonder how well that setup works. I was always taught that the sweep of the arm should sweep at equal lengths through it's axis, like how you set up rockers. Middle of the sweep parallel to the tip of the valve, then even sweep on either side. Wouldn't that apply to all points of the carb linkage as well?

[MikeK]

Here's my set-up. i had to flip the linkage around also, works well.

Now we're getting somewhere! You must have flipped the arms on the carbs so they pull up instead of down?

Why didn't I think of that?

I'll try what I think you did and report back.

Thanks to all for the input. Very excited to see if I can get this thing to run or not. It's been off of the road for years.

[930cabman]

I have several hex bar linkage setup's on the shelf, couldn't get any of them to work correctly. IIRC the geometry was kicking my a**. I fabricated a simple setup with a couple of 3/16" rods, couplers and ends. Works perfect, doesn't look so much, but I have been running it for a couple years now. 2056 twin Weber 40's

generally smaller is better when getting started out with carbs

[NARP74]

Maybe if you move the pressure regulator you can get something like this to work,
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=350016

Also, OP is at altitude so carb suggestions might be different, jetting sizes etc.

[MikeK]

I have several hex bar linkage setup's on the shelf, couldn't get any of them to work correctly. IIRC the geometry was kicking my a**. I fabricated a simple setup with a couple of 3/16" rods, couplers and ends. Works perfect, doesn't look so much, but I have been running it for a couple years now. 2056 twin Weber 40's

generally smaller is better when getting started out with carbs

I'm going to try to flip the arms at the carbs and see how that works.

I'd like to see a picture of your set up, though I know what a challenge it can be to post pictures on this site. I post on Samba, then paste it here.

[MikeK]

Maybe if you move the pressure regulator you can get something like this to work,
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=350016

Also, OP is at altitude so carb suggestions might be different, jetting sizes etc.

I'm not fully set on where the reg is going to be located, but I would have to use a push-pull linkage to make that work, and those suck. Too bad Gene Berg didn't do T4 stuff. Their linkage is top notch!

I have a friend who's a Wizard/Savant/Machinist who has driven Weber's daily for decades. He confirmed that the jetting is a decent starting place for what I'm doing up here at 6000'. We tore down the carbs together and compared/exchanged components with some real Weber's and he was pretty impressed, especially for as cheap as they were. They needed a little finessing, but they look like a good value for the money.

[NARP74]

I have two different setups, different linkages. Both required a custom bracket for the cable. I'll see if I can get some pics to work later.

[IronHillRestorations]

The only crossbar system I like has a round crossbar. I’m a fan of the CSP center pull bellcrank linkage. All the other linkage makes it harder to adjust the drop links. I have a carb tuning article I can email or post, if you want it.

[NARP74]

The two setups I have, one is round cross bar, the other is center pull, pics later hopefully.
I would love to see the tuning article, always looking for more experience.

[Jack Standz]

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...

The standard jetting and venturis supplied with the carbs area good starting point. It has 28mm venturis. These carbs were about $75 each on Ebay. I've gone through them, set the floats to 12mm, checked jet sizes, lube and lock-tighted everything and reassembled. The only complaints that I have so far is that the emulsion tubes are drilled perpendicular to the tube and not at an angle, like OG Webers are. I'm going to give it a try and worst case scenario is that I stick in some new F11's.

Here's what it came with:
200 Air correction
F11 Emulsion tubes
115 Mains
50 Idles

We used a pair of those cheap Weber clone carbs & find no problem with how they function.

Tuning is pretty much the same, so get several sets of main and idle jets in a range of progressive sizes. They're pretty inexpensive on ebay, but take a while to receive from other countries.

Getting steady fuel pressure at the right pressure (around 3 PSI on our gauge) was critical to keep the bowls filled and not over pressuring the seat causing flooding. During the inspection and test fitting, we replaced the needle valves and seats with name brand parts, which seemed to work better.

Your fuel pressure regulator may be a problem, so keep an eye on the fuel pressure gauge as we used a similar looking one that did not keep the pressure low enough to work properly.

If you do decide to change the vents, make sure you measure them as they come in different outside diameters.

And the best tool for dialing them in is getting an AFR gauge. Very helpful as we've taken that car from sea level to 8200 feet high, which is a challenge for a carbureted motor & similar to your altitude.

[anderssj]

Running Dells on my car, but the linkage set up is similar--towards the front of the car/engine:



Here's a copy of the set-up sheet I got from Claude's Buggies when I bought the carbs back in 1983 ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) ):



Note the orientation of the linkage arms--"down and out"

Another pic showing all the pieces of the puzzle: