 front mounted cooler - oil lines, what material? |
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| Bob Wolcott |
 Aug 27 2005, 08:37 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 85 Joined: 18-May 05 From: McMinnville, OR Member No.: 4,096  |
I have the shroud finished and I now need to route the oil lines back to the engine compartment. What material are the hard lines made of? Here are a few pictures of the lines in question.
http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/image/44622264 http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/image/44622265 Where can these lines be found, or do they have to be fabricated? Is there an easier way like running braided line instead of hard lines? Thanks, Bob |
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Replies(1 - 8)
| sixnotfour |
Aug 27 2005, 09:26 PM
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#2
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,680 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains 
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Those lines are the factory GT lines , they are brass, A fellow makes them exact duplicate of the factory ones and sells them for 650.00 a pair. they have metric ends.
you can run -12 braided , unless you're going for the GTexact spec. |
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| Trekkor |
Aug 27 2005, 10:13 PM
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#3
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
I think those are copper.
I'm very interested in using this method on my car. The cost of -12 SS line is around $10 per foot. The coppers line are cheap. As long as they don't bang on the metal of the tub or rub where they enter/exit the car I don't see how they can wear out. Tremendous heat transfer, naturally. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) KT Attached image(s) 
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| Bob Wolcott |
Aug 27 2005, 10:17 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 85 Joined: 18-May 05 From: McMinnville, OR Member No.: 4,096 |
I would be able to machine brass ends to use with copper tubing, but what would be the best way to fasten them? Would plumbing solder be strong enough at oil temperatures or would they need to be hard (silver) soldered?
Bob |
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| sixnotfour |
Aug 27 2005, 10:38 PM
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#5
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,680 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains
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The factory lines are brass with steel ends , I have seen people use copper with no problems |
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| Trekkor |
Aug 27 2005, 10:39 PM
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#6
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
You can "sweat" them on just like home water plumbing. The propane temp that melts the solder is somewhere in the 700 degree range +/_ 100 degrees (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
The hottest oil temps will not cause the solder joints to fail. KT |
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| Bob Wolcott |
Aug 27 2005, 11:29 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 85 Joined: 18-May 05 From: McMinnville, OR Member No.: 4,096 |
I was thinking that the solder melting point was ~450 degrees or so and if the oil was running at 200 that would be a close margin considering heat cycling and fatigue. If the stuff melts at 700 degrees there shouldn't be any problem. Where could I find the dimensions (technical drawing) for the 12-AN fitting?
Thanks, Bob |
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| Jeroen |
Aug 28 2005, 02:25 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,887 Joined: 24-December 02 From: The Netherlands Member No.: 3 Region Association: Europe |
IIRC there've been a couple of threads on the taildragger-bird-board that copper is brittle and can't stand the vibrations typically found in a car and because of that the lines are made of brass
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| davec |
Aug 28 2005, 06:40 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 11-February 03 From: Connecticut Member No.: 292 |
I have used -12 and -16 steel braided with excellent wear results. You should consider using -16 for the supply line.
DC |
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