New engine finally in!, 123 distributor 4RV Options

[Chad911sc]

So after 5 long months of work, I finally have the 2056 built and installed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
I have a couple questions about the 123 4RV distributor. I haven’t hooked it up to power yet, but from my understanding, you hook up only the red wire and then power the ignition and a light should come on in the body of the distributor.
1) Since our motors go in a CW direction, the first movement of the distributor goes clockwise until the light turns off? Then CCW until the green light comes on? Correct?
2) The engine has dual carb Webber 40’s/Web cam 86a/Mild port and polished stock valve heads. My question is what setting should I use on the distributor? From what I see it looks like curve #3. Does this sound right?
3) Do I use the vacuum port on the distributor body to the base of one of my carbs, or do I plug it off, or do I leave it open?

Thanks in advance for any info!

[Front yard mechanic]

I was told to use 5 seems to run great

[Cairo94507]

Wow! That looks amazing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Chad911sc]

Thanks for the replies fellas!
Hadn’t even looked at setting #5, but it is relatively close to setting #3 that I was thinking. Just want to make sure it’s close, so when I fire it up for the first time I can run it without problems for 20 mins to break in the cam.
Once I get it all back together I’ll post pics of the rest of the car….I like carbon fiber (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[moto914]

Looks like a lot of good work.

[sb914]

Very tidy looking.

[technicalninja]

Curve 3 looks fine for an initial setting to me.

You shouldn't be "overtimed" to start with.



Where is there a difference between #5 and #6?

Those have 7-8 degrees more mechanical. They look like what a "normal" water pumper would want.

It is odd that the other curves besides 3 have either 22 or 30 degrees mechanical.



Your engine compartment is closing on "World Class" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I especially like the CF air filter hats with color matched "bling"

I'd bet you're looking for the plastic washers in a lighter hue of blue...

Might be able to paint to match!

Nicely done Sir!

[emerygt350]

Curve 3 looks fine for an initial setting to me.

You shouldn't be "overtimed" to start with.



Where is there a difference between #5 and #6?

Those have 7-8 degrees more mechanical. They look like what a "normal" water pumper would want.

It is odd that the other curves besides 3 have either 22 or 30 degrees mechanical.



Your engine compartment is closing on "World Class" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I especially like the CF air filter hats with color matched "bling"

I'd bet you're looking for the plastic washers in a lighter hue of blue...

Might be able to paint to match!

Nicely done Sir!

That looks really good.

I don't have carbs but I use 0 and 1. If my base timing is at 8-9 that gets me around 30-31 all in. I see there is quite a difference in the 0vs1 vacuum advance, I might play with that a little bit when I get back to the states. Interested in how that affects cruise mpg and heat.

If you are running 5 and a base timing of 7 that puts you pretty far advanced but I have had my engine up near 40 before and it ran fine. Just didn't want to chance detonation.

[emerygt350]

dupe

[Chad911sc]

Yeah 3 is what I read on a couple other sites as well. I think I will start with three and fine tune it later once I have the initial can break in period.
Thanks for the compliments! I like things to look tidy a proper, and being a professional painter for years, it’s just in my blood now…lol.
And yes I need lighter blue screw sets for the carb tops (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chad911sc]

Oh yeah…and is there any thought on the vacuum advance? Should I run that to a carb base, or just plug it off?? So many opinions on that and I’m not the best when it comes to the timing issues and the necessity of the vacuum advance.

[emerygt350]

I have run it with and without. Many with the 123 just don't run it at all. Just make sure it is ported vacuum.

[emerygt350]

And is that a ballast resistor near the coil?

[Shivers]

Nice job, that’s a beauty!

[Spoke]

Looks fantastic.

[technicalninja]

Vacuum advance is helpful for street. Will improve acceleration from high vacuum conditions (cruise at 2500rpm).

It's added complexity for a track focused car that is never at "cruise".

I'd use the vacuum advance, but I'd make a little plenum and run at least two (opposite in firing order) intake sources. All 4 are better.

The problem with ITB set ups is each tube only sees a single vacuum pulse for each 720 degrees of revolution. At low speed its "choppy".

Try without, then hook up a single hose(easy), and if you see improvements look into the MAP plenum I mentioned.

Use a manifold vacuum source. Full vacuum at idle.

Avoid ported vacuum (none at closed throttle, increases as throttle opens) for a performance application.

Ported vacuum (and vacuum retards) are IMPORTANT for early emissions reasons/equipment.

[friethmiller]

Your engine bay is the "Tits!" Nicely done, sir! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[emerygt350]

If you plug your advance into the manifold it will be "on" all the time, shutting off only when you drop below 5 or so inhg. Not good. It is only meant for cruise conditions. The 123 is on or off as far as advance goes. It turns it on if it sees just a tiny amount of vacuum on that hose. It is either ported or not at all. Unless you like 10 degrees of advance all the time.

[Chad911sc]

Ok….im just going to plug it off for now and once I get it on the road, if it’s not acting right I will mess with the vacuum port.
As far as a ballast, if you are referring to the white bar that is by the coil, yes. This is how it was when I bought it, so I hooked it up exactly like it was. If this is not correct, please advise on what to do to remove it. I’m not the best with the electrical paths that are present on these cars and what is best once switched to carbs.
Thanks again for all the compliments and advice. My strengths are making things look good, not necessarily with motors and electrical paths. Kudos to all the help I had with building this engine, it took forever because I built it twice….lol.

[emerygt350]

The Bosch coils had it built in so no ballast was necessary. Perhaps your coil does not have that. I don't think it hurts to have it. Others will know more than I.