 horizontal bracing, when is it needed? |
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| Trekkor |
 Oct 28 2005, 08:06 PM
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#1
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I do things...  Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California  |
I've seen the pics of tube steel welded between the front and rear shock towers and diagonally in the rear trunk.
Why and when should I do this? Thanks, KT |
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Replies(1 - 9)
| URY914 |
Oct 28 2005, 08:14 PM
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#2
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 124,247 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
You mean....
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| ArtechnikA |
Oct 28 2005, 08:15 PM
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#3
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
between the shock towers: only when your car is too heavy for class rules and you need ballast. or you are running a 100-ltr GT gas tank.
triangulating back to the transmission mount area *might* be a good idea. |
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| URY914 |
Oct 28 2005, 08:23 PM
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#4
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 124,247 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
Any flex in the car is force that is not being transmitted to the ground.
You need to stiffen the car to allow the suspension to react to the loads being placed on it by the track. |
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| Jeroen |
Oct 28 2005, 08:31 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,887 Joined: 24-December 02 From: The Netherlands Member No.: 3 Region Association: Europe |
unless you cut out the firewall(s) you don't need braces between the shock towers
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| J P Stein |
Oct 28 2005, 08:47 PM
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#6
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
Right after you put in a roll cage.
The front and back ends of a stock 914 work independently of one another in pitch & roll....prolly yaw too (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) |
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| Bleyseng |
Oct 29 2005, 08:55 AM
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#7
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,036 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I would install Engman's inner long kit first to strengthen the chassis and reduce body flex. Then I would worry about the other problems .....
As Jereon said, ya don't need it as it comes that way stock! |
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| J P Stein |
Oct 29 2005, 09:05 AM
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#8
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
Oh good, now Trekor comes back with BTDT. Pick your chassis strengthing with care. |
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| brant |
Oct 29 2005, 09:12 AM
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#9
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,824 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains 
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more strength is better, but like all things in life you can go over board.
it comes down to a rules/class versus weight issue. 1st, you'll find that only highly modified classes allow you to tie into suspension points, and you had better be wanting to play in those classes before you do it. 2nd, you really don't need it unless you cut out the factory metal. ie: if you cut out the entire rear trunk floor pan and firewall between the shock towers then you need bars to replace the strength you've taken out. 3rd, weight....... the way I interpret JP's comments about picking with care are exactly the way I chose what to brace and what not to brace. Bars can get heavy. I wanted my car to be light. I added as few braces as possible to get the maximum cost=benefit from the weight penaly. thats my story and I'm sticking to it. plus I'm happy with my car weight when I got done. brant |
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| Tobra |
Oct 29 2005, 09:17 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,453 Joined: 22-August 05 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 4,634 |
You crack me up, perhaps a bit much for a street car though. How much does it weigh with the body on and you sitting in it? (Nice tire, BTW) |
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