new owner - need some advice, stuck brake repair in the field - what tools to bring? |
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new owner - need some advice, stuck brake repair in the field - what tools to bring? |
acy76 |
Oct 26 2006, 08:51 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 24-December 05 From: Twin Cities Member No.: 5,311 |
Hello all -- I've been reading the forum for a while now, researching and planning before committing to a 914 purchase. Last weekend, the right deal came along and I am now the proud owner of a '72 1.7l 914.
The car has been sitting over 10 years and the rear brakes are frozen. I am going to be tucking it away for the winter this coming Sunday and would like to free them up so it rolls - or remove them completely, whichever is easier. I'm hoping someone might be able to advise me as to what tools I should bring along to make this happen, as the car is an hour away from me and once I am there, what I've brought is what I've got. Aside from a set of metric sockets, wrenches, a hammer or two, etc., are there any items you all think I'd need to accomplish this task? I'll be working outdoors in Minnesota, so anything that expedites the process is going to be of great help. Thanks, Adrian p.s. after the reading I've done, this seems to be one of the more friendly/supportive automotive forums I've seen (and I've read quite a few). Nice work, I'm glad to be joining the community. |
SLITS |
Oct 26 2006, 09:19 AM
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#2
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Butane torch
BFS (big f_____g screwdriver) flat blade 5 mm? metric allen wrench (preferably a 3/8 rachet style) with Rachet & 5" extension 18 mm box wrench 11 mm open end wrench 13 mm box wrench pliers BFH (big f______g hammer) Jack lug wrench Jack car up ... remove wheel ..... remove inner and outer adjuster plugs ..... stick screw driver between pad & rotor .... while turning the adjustor (with 5 mm allen wrench) in appropriate direction for retraction, use the screwdriver to assist in prying the pad back (if necessary). Heating the assembly (caliper half) may help also. 13 mm is for outer adjuster lock nut. If this fails, use the 11mm to remove the brake line and the 18 mm to remove the caliper mounting bolts, the pliers to remove parking brake pin & lock. Beat calipers off with BFH. I think all the sizes are correct. |
ptravnic |
Oct 26 2006, 09:20 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 27-May 03 From: Chicago, IL Member No.: 747 Region Association: None |
are you planning on driving it out or towing it? If you just need to get the brakes unfrozen bring some PB Blaster/liquid wrench/WD 40 type stuff. You could always just remove the calipers to get it to roll - they'll probably need rebuilt anyway.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) |
michel richard |
Oct 26 2006, 09:27 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
IIRC the bolts that hold the caliper to the trailing arm are 19 mm
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jones |
Oct 26 2006, 09:29 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 126 Joined: 4-March 04 From: Seattle Member No.: 1,751 |
Somthing to sit on... piece of old carpet, cardboard... whatever. As said a torch. Fresh batteries in the flashlight. Courage and a positive attitude.
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davep |
Oct 26 2006, 11:04 AM
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#6
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,195 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
Basically I would suggest removing the pads. Remove the clips with needlenose pliers. Knock out pins with a long (2" before taper) fine ( oh about 3/32") punch and hammer while wearing safety glasses. Careful, those pins are getting hard to replace and you don't want to break the casting. Then carefully pry at the pads. Try to push the pistons in just a little for clearance. If you can, remove the cap over the outer adjuster (13mm), then unlock the jam nut (13mm), then use 4mm Allen key to screw the adjuster into the caliper in order to retract the piston. If it does not turn easily, STOP. The last thing you want to do is to bugger the adjuster. Try to pull the pads out without breaking anything. You may try to hammer them in just a bit to break them free. Penetrating spray on everything may help, but could damage the rubber. Same with using a torch for heat.
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jones |
Oct 26 2006, 03:09 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 126 Joined: 4-March 04 From: Seattle Member No.: 1,751 |
Everyone so tossed in eugene and correct papers for new people. Anyone in the state that kicked the Seahawks ass wanna lend a hand?
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GWN7 |
Oct 26 2006, 03:19 PM
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#8
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King of Road Trips Group: Members Posts: 6,280 Joined: 31-December 02 From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Member No.: 56 Region Association: Northstar Region |
A 5' long length of pipe (galvanised fence post works) to go over the tire iron in case the wheel bolts are rusted on also.
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Eric_Shea |
Oct 26 2006, 03:29 PM
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#9
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE 18 mm box wrench 19mm ya moron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) QUOTE 5 mm? metric allen wrench 4mm ya moron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Just trying to show Adrian how nice we are to each other! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) Do what Dave says... I always do. I wouldn't bother with the adjusters etc. though. Just pull the pads and you should be good to roll. I wouldn't even bother with 10 year old Minnesota field calipers until I gott'er back to the Ranch. Yank the pads. Yank the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) |
sixnotfour |
Oct 26 2006, 06:38 PM
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#10
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,523 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
There is 5- 914's heading to Minneapolis on one truck watch for it.
Is it Orange ? 5 years ago driving thru (SCCAPro rally 911) on the way to WI. ,I saw an orange one in a field. Needle in a haystack. Good luck with your project. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Oct 26 2006, 07:27 PM
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#11
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
IIRC the bolts that hold the caliper to the trailing arm are 19 mm Three birds with one stone here. The caliper mounting bolts require a 17mm wrench, not a 19, and the allen wrench for the adjusters and the inner plug is 4mm, not 5. I would NEVER advise a newbie to take apart a rear caliper in the car. Odds are the inner plug is gonna be seriously stuck, and the technique for backing out the adjusters isn't intuitive. The Cap'n |
highways |
Oct 26 2006, 07:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 613 Joined: 18-June 05 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 4,296 |
A long rope and a strong tug.
Seriously that's how I unfroze mine. Sprayed a little WD40 in there. Tied a climbing rope to the car. Dad pulled me forward. It took a sudden hard tug to pop it free and then the 914 (which I was 'driving') lurched forward a little. Just don't hit your tow buddy. I think the brakes worked after they came loose too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) |
acy76 |
Oct 29 2006, 09:04 PM
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#13
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 24-December 05 From: Twin Cities Member No.: 5,311 |
Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll be getting to it next weekend. We'll see what 13 years of shed storage has done to those brakes...
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rick 918-S |
Oct 29 2006, 09:15 PM
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#14
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,679 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) how about a AAA card and tow it someplace warm. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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acy76 |
Nov 5 2006, 07:49 PM
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#15
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 24-December 05 From: Twin Cities Member No.: 5,311 |
Basically I would suggest removing the pads. Remove the clips with needlenose pliers. Knock out pins with a long (2" before taper) fine ( oh about 3/32") punch and hammer while wearing safety glasses. Careful, those pins are getting hard to replace and you don't want to break the casting. Then carefully pry at the pads. Try to push the pistons in just a little for clearance. If you can, remove the cap over the outer adjuster (13mm), then unlock the jam nut (13mm), then use 4mm Allen key to screw the adjuster into the caliper in order to retract the piston. If it does not turn easily, STOP. The last thing you want to do is to bugger the adjuster. Try to pull the pads out without breaking anything. You may try to hammer them in just a bit to break them free. Penetrating spray on everything may help, but could damage the rubber. Same with using a torch for heat. This method worked perfectly. Took about 30-45 minutes to get everything apart and free so that the car would roll. It's now in a barn resting until spring when I'll come get it for the trip home. Thanks again. |
davep |
Nov 5 2006, 08:03 PM
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#16
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,195 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
Glad to help out. Thirty years of addiction means a lot of BTDT. Brakes are my specialty anyway.
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Eric_Shea |
Nov 5 2006, 09:20 PM
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#17
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE The caliper mounting bolts require a 17mm wrench, not a 19 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) |
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