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> Turbo 914??????
ne14914
post Mar 10 2003, 09:38 PM
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I am thinking of adding a Turbo Unit to my 914. It currently is a 1973 F.I. 1.7. I am getting different opinions and need some input.

Are there any kits for a 914, and if so, where can I purchase one?

Should I keep my F.I. or convert to a Weber Carb?

Will I have to fabricate any parts - and if so - what?

Do you recommend any reliable mechanics in the Los Angeles area? I live in San Bernadino County but commuting is no big deal.

For those of you that have a Turbo Unit - what problems can I expect from it? Is it reliable?

Thanks for the feed back.

Craig
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Bleyseng
post Mar 10 2003, 09:45 PM
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Go to this site for how to do it....
http://members.rennlist.com/evill/
There are some old kits around that sell on Ebay but they need to be rebuilt, ha! try to find parts for them.


Sam Gore did the weber carb turbo on a 2.0l maybe he will answer too.
Geoff
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ne14914
post Mar 10 2003, 09:48 PM
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Thanks for the info
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campbellcj
post Mar 10 2003, 10:36 PM
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Sheesh, everybody knows you can't turbocharge a 914!


(inside joke). Sammy will get here eventually. You know how slow those olpharts can get sometimes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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airsix
post Mar 10 2003, 11:15 PM
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QUOTE
Are there any kits for a 914, and if so, where can I purchase one?

No kits.
QUOTE
Should I keep my F.I. or convert to a Weber Carb?

Niether. While many of the Bug hotrodders do carbed turbo's, CIS injection or a modern EFI is really the best way to go.
QUOTE
Will I have to fabricate any parts - and if so - what?

Many. Basically everything (oil feed and return, intake plumbing, exhaust plumbing, etc.)
QUOTE
For those of you that have a Turbo Unit - what problems can I expect from it? Is it reliable?

Can't really say about reliability since mine's not on the road yet, but there are a lot of people running turbo typeI beetles and they seen to do just fine. Go to http://www.shoptalkforums.com for lots of advice on vw forced induction.

-Ben M.
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djm914-6
post Mar 11 2003, 07:42 AM
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Anyone Turbo a small /6?

Would the cost of doing a turbo be more or less $$$ than going to a bigger engine (both /4 and /6)
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Evill Ed
post Mar 11 2003, 08:47 AM
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I have successfully turbo-ed my 914. Mine is now a 2.0L with a blow through CIS injected set up. I made "everything" there are no kits.
On a stock engine you can easily run 6-7 psi without a problem as long as you have enough fuel for it. To go over that, 8-10 psi, you will need some type of intercooling. Over 10 psi, you need good intercooling and usually 100 octane race fuel.

Some links to my car pages:

http://community.webshots.com/album/56139700KTKzDo

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/evill914/lst?.d...otos.yahoo.com/

Ed
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Mark Henry
post Mar 11 2003, 09:25 AM
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Turbo's can be done BUT you really need to know 'personally' what your doing.
No kits, therefore everything is custom and if you can't DIY = expensive.

By the sounds of things you will be having a mechanic do most of your work. I would suggest that a mild big 4 might be a better way for you to go, as they can be built reliable with not much more maintenance than a stock engine.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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seanery
post Mar 11 2003, 09:44 AM
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waiting to rebuild whitey!
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Evil Ed,

I loved the article on your car in Excellence!
Very nice ride!
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Mark Henry
post Mar 11 2003, 12:49 PM
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Hey Ed,

Did you ever do any dyno time or a guessamate on the Hp?

Any problems with the stock heat exchangers? Some guys say its to long of pipes, what do you say.

Why did you put the turbo in the engine compartment? Because of the oil return? Are you worried about the heat in this area?

Thanks, Mark.
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Evill Ed
post Mar 11 2003, 01:22 PM
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>>Hey Ed,

Did you ever do any dyno time or a guessamate on the Hp?<<

No dyno yet, I hope to do that this year. Last year at Watkins Glen, I was slipping the clutch in 4th gear on the back straight. That was flat out at 14-psi. The clutch is a new Sachs unit, stock. I have been told that the stock clutch is good to about 180hp. So an optimistic guess would be >180hp. When I dyno it, I'll know for sure.

>>Any problems with the stock heat exchangers? Some guys say its to long of pipes, what do you say.<<

I talked with Corkey Bell about this, Corkey said that the benefits of shorter tubes would be noticed in 1/10 second in drag racing type applications. As far as my set up goes, I have great throttle response and minimal lag. I have no immediate plans to redesign my exhaust. My heat is fully functional as well.


>>Why did you put the turbo in the engine compartment? Because of the oil return? Are you worried about the heat in this area?

Thanks, Mark. <<

I run CIS, I wanted to keep the turbo close tot he airflow sensor to ensure strong air pulse signals to the airflow sensor. With CIS, if the intake track is too long or sized incorrectly, the throttle response will be all screwed up. As for heat, since the turbo is not connected to the manifolds, it actually runs alot cooler. All the heat in in the thermally wrapped feed and exhaust pipes. The increase of temperature in the engine bay is minimal. Mounting the turbo high allows for easy gravity return of oil to the #3/#4 head.

Ed
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Mark Henry
post Mar 11 2003, 03:55 PM
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Thanks Ed, BTW cool ride! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

One last question, what did you do to the engine internally (specs.) to handle this power?

I look at your teen and the old wheels start turning, as if I need more shite to think about, Mark.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Evill Ed
post Mar 11 2003, 06:54 PM
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>>Thanks Ed, BTW cool ride! [driving.gif]<<

Thanks;^)

>>One last question, what did you do to the engine internally (specs.) to handle this power?<<

The engine is basically stock. The pistons and cylinders are Mahle US spec 94mm with Deeves rings. The rods have ARP bolts. all internals have been balanced. The oil pump is a Melling Hi Volume unit. And I have .060 copper head gaskets. Static compression works out to be 8.3:1 And a WebCam #73 grind with Web lifters.

I have the stock oil cooler on the engine and a remote cooler mounted up front. Oil temps stay at 180-190f most of the time. In the summe rat the track I run 200-210f. Heads run at 300-350f.

>>I look at your teen and the old wheels start turning, as if I need more shite to think about, Mark.<<

Yup, thats how it starts.

Ed[/B][B][/B]
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Mueller
post Mar 11 2003, 07:00 PM
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Hey Ed,

ditto on what Mark said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Copper head gaskets? Are these readily available or a custom job?

Any special treatment to the mating surface of the cylinders where they mate to the head?

Thanks,

Mike
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Evill Ed
post Mar 11 2003, 07:12 PM
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>>Hey Ed,

ditto on what Mark said [smile.gif]<<

Thanks Mike. Sounds like you're building a nice ride too.


>>Copper head gaskets? Are these readily available or a custom job?<<

Got them from John at Aircooled.net. Has has a few type 4 sizes available. I think they were $90- Reuasble too, just heat cherry red and let air cool. They seal really well.

>>Any special treatment to the mating surface of the cylinders where they mate to the head?

Thanks,

Mike<<

No special treatment. Just had the heads machined nice and flat and smoothed the cylinder tops on some emery cloth over a piece of 1/2 glass. That be it.

Regards,
Ed
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