quick power, any ideas Options

[rufio0205]

looking for some quick cheap effective horsepower boosters...i know i dont necessarily need it. but...cant hurt.

i'm supposed to race my popps '73 MGB. and i want to obliterate that poor excuse for a race car.


any ideas?

[alpha434]

I second the adjust your tire pressure. +5 to 7 lbs over manufacturer suggestion.

Adjust your car as low to the ground as you can get it. Better COG. Ditch the roof and the rear window. And you could also cut holes in the sail panels if you're dedicated enough. Simulation shows that that reduces drag considerably. A flat bottom kit will cost you 50 buck in plastic. Get some hard plastic sheet and cover the bottom of your car, suspension components included. Cut two slots beneath each head. Remove the rear bumper altogether. Change the front bumper for one of F/G. And don't forget an airdam. Like the other guys said, ditch your extra weight. Depending on how serious you are, you can remove the rear hood, and the rear decklid completely. And cut that trunk out, too. Taking stuff off is typically free. New shocks for the front would be a cheap upgrade. You can get a scoop for your intake for fairly cheap off eGay and fabricate a duct to get some ram air. Remove that air filter, unless you're racing in the desert. Then it's safer to leave it. Do an alignment. Rear toe in 2 degrees. Front toe in depends on wear on the suspension. Start at two degrees and make it more until your car develops and understeer/oversteer problem. Then back it off a little.

If it's a drag race... Unbolt the fan.

Btw...What kind of race is this?

[orange914]

Do an alignment. Rear toe in 2 degrees. Front toe in depends on wear on the suspension.

huh? the rear power wheels will toe in slightly when under a forward/pushing load depanding on wear/movement of the suspention. if anything you want to toe out a degree to compensate and have 0 toe in under a load.

get a roll of a/c insulating tape and wrap your exposed to heat fuel lines to keep the fuel cold, heat wrap your exhaust, pipe cold unrestricted air into your intake. run premium, ad some advance and turn up your fuel pressure a few pounds. like justinp71 said air in (increased cold condensed air & fuel), exhaust out (hot contained).

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mike

[Dave_Darling]

if anything you want to toe out a degree to compensate and have 0 toe in under a load.

huh?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Toe out in the rear is A Bad Thing. You want to stay away from it--unless you really like spinning! Toe-in at the rear, always. Yes, the compliance in the rear suspension means you'll see a little more rear toe-in under power. Too bad! You don't want the rear to go into toe-out under braking, or you'll wind up swapping ends under braking.

Toe-out in the front can help the initial turn-in, at the expense of making the car "darty" and wanting to wander around. Front toe-in will keep the car more stable, at the expense of slightly less crisp turn-in behavior.

--DD