The 25-year/250,000-mile refresh, UPDATE 5.15.2017: After first 1,000-mile trip |
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The 25-year/250,000-mile refresh, UPDATE 5.15.2017: After first 1,000-mile trip |
horizontally-opposed |
Feb 8 2008, 03:03 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,445 Joined: 12-May 04 From: San Francisco Member No.: 2,058 Region Association: None |
So I've decided to confront a few rust bubbles on my car, before painting it (the car looked great, but I never liked the wavy sides due to poor prep and no blocking).
If you can't stomach this first photo, please don't continue... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) pete Attached thumbnail(s) |
McMark |
Mar 6 2008, 12:26 AM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Looking good Pete! Glad to see the seam sealer gone. You're right that this is a major PITA and is completely necessary. This is especially important for those people who are media blasting their cars (soda, dry-ice included) because the blasting won't touch that stuff.
I stopped using canned primer/paint over my metal work because I had a few experiences where the rattle can paint didn't interact well with the final paint and caused bubbling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Now I figure a little surface rust comes off in two seconds with some 80 grit sandpaper, so why bother painting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I agree with the epoxy fix for the door jamb area. Everyone hates on epoxy/body filler/fiberglass and raves about welding, but sometimes it's just NOT worth the hassle when somethine else will work fine. |
stevesc_us |
Mar 6 2008, 03:46 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 71 Joined: 12-February 06 From: Redwood City, CA Member No.: 5,569 |
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