The 25-year/250,000-mile refresh, UPDATE 5.15.2017: After first 1,000-mile trip |
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The 25-year/250,000-mile refresh, UPDATE 5.15.2017: After first 1,000-mile trip |
horizontally-opposed |
Feb 8 2008, 03:03 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,445 Joined: 12-May 04 From: San Francisco Member No.: 2,058 Region Association: None |
So I've decided to confront a few rust bubbles on my car, before painting it (the car looked great, but I never liked the wavy sides due to poor prep and no blocking).
If you can't stomach this first photo, please don't continue... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) pete Attached thumbnail(s) |
McMark |
Mar 6 2008, 12:26 AM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Looking good Pete! Glad to see the seam sealer gone. You're right that this is a major PITA and is completely necessary. This is especially important for those people who are media blasting their cars (soda, dry-ice included) because the blasting won't touch that stuff.
I stopped using canned primer/paint over my metal work because I had a few experiences where the rattle can paint didn't interact well with the final paint and caused bubbling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Now I figure a little surface rust comes off in two seconds with some 80 grit sandpaper, so why bother painting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I agree with the epoxy fix for the door jamb area. Everyone hates on epoxy/body filler/fiberglass and raves about welding, but sometimes it's just NOT worth the hassle when somethine else will work fine. |
stevesc_us |
Mar 6 2008, 03:46 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 71 Joined: 12-February 06 From: Redwood City, CA Member No.: 5,569 |
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McMark |
Mar 6 2008, 04:43 PM
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#4
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
I stopped using canned primer/paint over my metal work because I had a few experiences where the rattle can paint didn't interact well with the final paint and caused bubbling. So that's what must have happened on Olav's paint job. For sure. I've known that since it happened. |
horizontally-opposed |
Mar 6 2008, 05:35 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,445 Joined: 12-May 04 From: San Francisco Member No.: 2,058 Region Association: None |
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McMark |
Mar 6 2008, 09:40 PM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
For sure. I've known that since it happened. If we sand those areas down prior to paint prep, it should be okay, right? pete Sand them down, and talk to your painter. Maybe a dose of brake cleaner, which eats rattle can for lunch, but doesn't usually do much to REAL paint. A wire brush can help too. You're going to have to try and get into the nooks and crannies. Your painter will know more about interactions. A good sealer might be all it takes (after sanding it off). |
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