Installing a V-8...a few questions, Progress thread & 914 makeover |
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Installing a V-8...a few questions, Progress thread & 914 makeover |
computers4kids |
May 28 2008, 10:21 AM
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#1
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
I'm installing a chevy 305 with a renegage kit and I have a few questions.
There seems to be plenty of room to leave the battery tray in the OEM position, why do many move the location to the trunk? I have the Renegade wiring harness but no diagram...can someone send me a copy? The exhaust is headers with twin turbo exhaust. Do you remove the stock exhaust heat sheild...it fits either way. Is it good to leave it or remove it? Where do you source your power for the front 'dual fan radiator?' From what I have read it needs to be powered all the time, not switched. Is there a source to tap into in the front trunk or do you run a dedicated line...if so how heavy? I would really love to see pictures of your V-8 914 front end so see what kind of setup you did for valance and cutting the bumper! I'm good on the fender cuts. Stupid Question: The renegade recommends using #8 1/2 metal screws to attach the brackets that hold the coolant hoses to the bottom of the car. It mentions to be careful not to puncture the fuel lines in the tunnel. How can you tell if your'e going to hit a fuel line or not? ...other than just hoping and guessing? Sorry for all the questions... Mark Edited.....thought I would add some before and a after picture since this thread has evolved into a v-8 install/restore/modify thread. The story begins.... Attached image(s) |
LvSteveH |
Jun 21 2008, 03:41 PM
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#2
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I put the Poor in Porsche Group: Members Posts: 1,080 Joined: 22-April 03 From: Las Vegas, Nevada Member No.: 600 |
I agree, don't time it by ear.
If you use a piston stop you can establish perfect TDC and mark it under the car. I've marked the balancer (on the bottom) and the flywheel via the hole in the bottom of the trans and either works fine. A timing light with an advance dial makes it easier. It's annoying to time it under the car, but it works. To make a piston stop you can take the center out of a spark plug and weld in a bolt with the head cut off. Then round the end so it doesn't damage the piston. You can determine the length with the engine close to TDC then check the depth of the piston through the hole. It will get you pretty close. Basically you want the length to be just long enough to mark a spot on one side of TDC where the engine won't turn any more. Then spin the engine all the way around and mark the other side of TDC. The center between those two marks will be TDC. Just be careful not to slam the piston into the stop, rotate it slowly. |
computers4kids |
Jun 21 2008, 06:09 PM
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#3
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
If you use a piston stop you can establish perfect TDC and mark it under the car. I've marked the balancer (on the bottom) and the flywheel via the hole in the bottom of the trans and either works fine. A timing light with an advance dial makes it easier. Thanks...I'm pretty sure I follow your line of thinking. Along that line of thinking, I wonder if this would also work. Connect my cylinder leakage kit up to #1 and find either side of TDC on the compression stroke. Turn engine one way leakage out of carb (watch meter) intake opens. Turn the other direction...leakage out exhaust (watch meter( exhaust valve opens. Make a mark for both sides of TDC as you mentioned. Divide in half=TDC. Another option: I could probably watch the valves open and close (#1), mark both sides of TDC and divide in half. What do you think...am I on the right track? |
Dr. Roger |
Jun 21 2008, 10:13 PM
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#4
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
<What do you think...am I on the right track?>
All of our V8 engines are setup differently, and most have been internally modded so one engine is different from all others. That includes timing. there's another way. If your engine is pinging you should retard your timing immediately. If your engine isn't pinging under full throttle, you can add some advance. I do it in very small steps until I hear a little, then retard back one or two degrees. Now I get no ping under full throttle and maximum power for the given engine setup. Once you've completed that step you can look at your mechanical ignition advance curve and see where the ping was in conjunction with the vacuum advance and adjust accordingly to optimize power across most driving situations. Daily driver or lead foot.... =) Clear as mud, right? |
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