Swapping proportioning valve for "T" fitting... Options

[Wanna9146]

I read on this forum recently about someone swapping out their proportioning valve for a "T" fitting.

Does anyone know the size/thread count of the correct "T" fitting? Any fabrication required?

[Eric_Shea]

If I do this swap, I'll post a video of my car hard-braking from 50 mph

Make sure your steering wheel is straight otherwise you'll end up in YouTube blooper hall of fame.

How much is a new (rebuilt) proportioning valve? ($275.25)

Have you ever seen one go bad? They "basically" don't. There can be extreme cases but it would have to be just that, extreme.

I have a brand new "T" sitting on the shelf. I'll throw it in with your rebuilds. It's my last one (and I do mean "last" one). Don't tell your life insurance agent where it came from. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm not a fan (if that's not coming through in the writing).

* Do the two man bleed process and have the person inside the car "REALLY" cram on the pedal.
* Use a plastic mallet or a small wooden drift to tap on the p-valve (and rear calipers) when bleeding.
* Once you get a decent pedal, drive the car and hit some bump-itty-bumps. Do some panic stops in a vacant parking lot. Come back home and rebleed.
* Make sure the venting clearance is set to .004" on the high side of the runout.

It's funny, the other thing I see is people wanting adjustable proportioning valves in their cars and they never look to see that they already have one.

The poor stock valve gets a bad rap because it can be notorious for trapping air. Look at Jeff's factory manual thread or a post I made last month and you'll see the inner workings of the valve. The big spring can trap bubbles. The valve body can trap bubbles. Work around those issues with the bleed and you'll be much safer and have a great brake system.

[Wanna9146]

Thanks Eric, but don't worry about the "T". I will spend some more time with the p-valve and see what happens.

If I do this swap, I'll post a video of my car hard-braking from 50 mph

Make sure your steering wheel is straight otherwise you'll end up in YouTube blooper hall of fame.

How much is a new (rebuilt) proportioning valve? ($275.25)

Have you ever seen one go bad? They "basically" don't. There can be extreme cases but it would have to be just that, extreme.

I have a brand new "T" sitting on the shelf. I'll throw it in with your rebuilds. It's my last one (and I do mean "last" one). Don't tell your life insurance agent where it came from. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm not a fan (if that's not coming through in the writing).

* Do the two man bleed process and have the person inside the car "REALLY" cram on the pedal.
* Use a plastic mallet or a small wooden drift to tap on the p-valve (and rear calipers) when bleeding.
* Once you get a decent pedal, drive the car and hit some bump-itty-bumps. Do some panic stops in a vacant parking lot. Come back home and rebleed.
* Make sure the venting clearance is set to .004" on the high side of the runout.

It's funny, the other thing I see is people wanting adjustable proportioning valves in their cars and they never look to see that they already have one.

The poor stock valve gets a bad rap because it can be notorious for trapping air. Look at Jeff's factory manual thread or a post I made last month and you'll see the inner workings of the valve. The big spring can trap bubbles. The valve body can trap bubbles. Work around those issues with the bleed and you'll be much safer and have a great brake system.