Orange 75 project, Clutch and Shifter setup Options

[my928s4]

So a couple months back I posted about getting a hold of the project candidate,
feel like I have moved on from that so thought it I would post some pics on progress and I will add to this thread as time (and progress) goes on.

I did not get around to stripping the car down till earlier in the month as I drove my 928 down to Sharktoberfest in LA and I was performing last minute tinkering before the drive.

Anyway back to 914 subject matter, the good news is I have not found too many issues which is a relief and I can start to order parts and make some investment in tools. It is a perfect time of year for indoor projects as it is below freezing all the time now and skiing does not start here till after xmas.

Surface rust and dirt in the front trunk but that is about it, will need to repiar a couple of areas around the hood seal.





Chris

[my928s4]

After you tack the perimeter of the stiffening plate, you can use an awl to scratch the paint off in the holes. It helps.

Never thought about removing the primer in the holes, makes sense now though!! I always thought 'weld thru' meant exactly that but sometimes I find it gives me more problems than I was expecting.

Your work looks really good for your experience level. Hot metal in the socks is tough. A pair of wolverines boots would help. Harbor Freight has a cheap leather apron. If you can find a metal salvage yard, you might look for some pieces of copper. I have some 3/8 thick 4x4 square copper plates that I put behind single wall panels and weld holes up against the copper plates. The wire won't stick to the copper and the back side is flat when you finnish. Eastwood has some expensive copper helpers that are magnetic. Some weld through primers can be removed with laquer thinner. You can use a qtip with laquer thinner to clean out the holes in the stiffeners, it dosen't take but a second for each hole. Also you may not think you need it but Eastwood has a long air powered 4 inch cutoff wheel tool that is real handy. I use the 1/16 thick wheels on everything from metal to fiberglass. It would be a good xmas present for your wife. A carbide burr on a air tool will get in the corners on the welds. Restomotive also sells a Tiecoat primer that will stick to the por15. It's babyblue so you might want to paint over it. It's hard to get normal paint and glue to stick to por15.

I am wondering if the Engman kit made the door gaps change any.

I think it should be against the law to have that much fun by yourself.

Great info. Looking back I wish I had used something like the copper spoon, I think one of these is mandatory for the GT fenders. I looked up the extended grinder and the carbide burr, thankyou, it is amazing what tools are out there to make life easier.

Very nice work there and an inspiration to those of us who are about to embark on the journey. A special thanks for the progress pictures and insights. Stuff like that is gold.

Tom

Thanks Tom, messages like yours and others also help keep me motivated when things don't go so well!

good looking work. Lots of hard, dirty work to make those picts. One bit of advice I will give is reconsider your decision to delete the stock jack points. If you plan to run the car low, they are VERY handy. My first 914 had them deleted and I'll never do another without the jack points. My current car runs about 5 3/4" under the rockers. Even my relatively low profile Lincoln jack will not get under. Forget about your average craftsman jack. I use one of those thingys you put in the stock jack point and jack off of that. The stock jack also works very well if you get a flat on the road.

Perhaps others will disagree, but if you have the parts put the jack points on. You should be able to trim the tube and weld it right to the plate you have put on and then put the cover on. That's how I did mine.

Kelly

Good point on the jack post delete, will think about that one, if only they made the upper half of the jack point easier to access.

Now that it's many moons since the first coat of por15.....what's the scratch and dent hardness of the por in the pans and how's it holding up? Have you picked out a primer that's recommended with por?

Thanks for letting me pick your brain. You're doing a Great job. I'm about 60 days behind you on a car that should have been finished a year ago. Funny how these drag on when wife and kids interfere with real man's work! Thanks Bill

The POR15 seems to be holding up fine and has adhered really well to the metal, there were lots of opinions on the stuff but I think like everything else prep is key.
As Charlie mentioned above the people who make POR15 also make tricoat primer to use with it, I will be trying that out later, everywhere else will get epoxy primer.