Ignition switch problem |
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Ignition switch problem |
watsonrx13 |
Nov 15 2008, 06:59 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,735 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Last week I swapped out the ignition tumbler then started having electrical problems. I decided this weekend I would try to tackle them. BTW, I have a '74 2.0l FI. Here's the situation:
When I turn the ignition switch on, I don't get any power to the fuse panel nor the fuel pump nor the starter. Before swapping the tumbler, everything was working fine, except the headlights wouldn't raise. They would light up, but not pop up. So, I checked the wiring diagram. Here's my interpretation of the ignition switch..... 30 - power from the battery (red) X - headlight switch (red) 15 - fuse #9 (black) & seat belt warning light (red) P - starter S - seat belt warning w/buzzer(gray/brow) 50 - seat belt warning w/buzzer (yellow) I pulled the tumbler and checked for power at ignition plug #30 - good - 12v When I turn the key, I get power to fuse #9 (12v). Also the seat belt warning light comes on (the one in the dash above the vent controls). When I close the doors, the light doesn't lite up. The seat belt buzzer sounds, but stops when the doors are closed. Looking at the diagram, it appears that there should be power to the red wire at fuse #11. I checked and nothing. I decided to place a wire directly from the battery to the #11 fuse. When I installed this wire, my headlights raised and lit up. The fog lights worked. The windshield wipers worked. The turn signals worked. Is there suppose to be a direct connection between the battery and the fuse panel? And if so, where is the conection? I think the ignition switch is bad, but I swapped out (2) others that I have in my stash, but they didn't work either. Joe has suggested that I remove the ignition switch from the tumbler and use a small screwdriver to turn the switch, which I'll perform tomorrow. Any suggestion? BTW, I don't have internet connection at the shop, so I won't be able to check until tomorrow. -- Rob |
Spoke |
Nov 23 2008, 09:58 AM
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#2
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,052 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
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Are your other connections there are ok? Hopefully you've checked them all. I don't trust wire splices w/o solder and crimp connectors. Secure wire connections and splices are foundations of reliable electrical systems. For splices I always twist the wires together and solder. Electrical tape or shrink wrap and that connection will never need maintenance. Crimps make good connections on day one then go downhill after that. They can loosen up if the wires are moved or vibrated. Twisted spices w/o solder can un-twist and make intermittent contacts. Both types can cause strange behavior of the electrics. |
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