Wilhelm's build - Yet Another Machine (YAM), A build starting summer 2008, So how longs this gonna take? |
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Wilhelm's build - Yet Another Machine (YAM), A build starting summer 2008, So how longs this gonna take? |
Wilhelm |
Sep 9 2008, 01:12 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 408 Joined: 7-September 07 From: Hooterville, OR Member No.: 8,088 Region Association: None |
So its time to quit making parts and start building my car. My true goal despite a bunch of design ideas is to have something I can drive, enjoy, use, and convince the wife to ride in, making it worth the all effort I'm putting into this. I've started with a 74 yellow CA car with fairly mild hell hole rust. The first step was to strip the car of everything, steal all the one-quart freezer bags from the kitchen and label and bag everything I could think of. I threw together a rotisserie out of a bunch of rusty scrap pipe I found in a field. I had the wheels kicking around for years from Harbor Freight. I built this so I could have an off road rotisserie and get the car outside to sandblast it. When all is said and done the sandblasting took about 10 hours with about half that time devoted to heating up the seam sealer with a mapp torch and scrapping it out with chisels and picks. I probably spent and equal time sandblasting remnants of seams sealer to the the time spent on the entire remainder of the car. One thing that really sped up the sandblasting was to pre-prep large areas with paint stripper; the paint would come off very easily. None of the stripping is fun. Sandblasting requires a respirator, hearing protection (horrifically loud) and eye protection. I initially was wearing a tyvek suit and still got dirty. It also was about 100 degrees out and it got pretty ripe in there. I spent the remainder of the time dressed like in these pictures and all was well and good till the air hose separated from the nozzle and blasted the back of my upper arm. Really friggin hurt and looked like road rash. For eye protection I used the hood shown, then tried a full face shield. What worked best however was using an old welding helmet with a clear lens. The clear lenses would last about 1-2 hours and only cost $.49 to replace compared to a few bucks for the hood and 15 bucks for a shield neither of which had a longer life than the $.49 lens for the welding helmet.
Design goals: Sheridan front, end narrow body 959 style rear fenders 916 rear bumper Carbon fiber look top Monowiper (yeah like rice-a-roni) Though the hood radiator vent (wbergtho-style) Front hinged hood Turbo twist style wheels (8" front, 10" rear) 911 front end 5 lug 928 rear hubs (see my build - 928 Hybrid trailing arm ) Tilt wheel, smaller diameter, thinking from a jetta Power steering Move the stereo to where the heater controls are Air Conditioning with simplified HVAC controls Coffee cup holders 930 transmission (already have) Engine- either 327 (already have the 327) versus an LS2 |
andys |
Dec 9 2008, 11:07 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None |
Wilhelm,
Nice progress. You're balancing the engine/trans on that jack, and going that high? You are a brave soul indeed! With the front suspension in the car, the engine/trans will not lift the front. Otherwise it will. With the 930 in the normal non-flipped position, you may find you have to position the motor rather high in the chassis to keep the axles from endind up with too much angle. It's the same thing I ran into with my 6 speed setup. It's surprising how much room you gain with the motor in a lower position, but I suppose it's a moot point. The Corvette dampener does give you more room mostly because it moves the accessory drive closer to the motor. I made up this lift for the engine/trans; it's only 4 1/2" collapsed so that I don't have to jack the car very high to wheel it under. Andys Attached image(s) |
Wilhelm |
Dec 17 2008, 07:34 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 408 Joined: 7-September 07 From: Hooterville, OR Member No.: 8,088 Region Association: None |
You're balancing the engine/trans on that jack, and going that high? You are a brave soul indeed! Andys You're right, this situation was a little tenuous. However, I like the fact this Harbor Freight 2000# Transmission Jack can: 1. Support the weight. 2. Can be tilted right/left, fore/aft. 3. Is fairly wide and seems stable. 4. Was bought on sale!. What I did to make this a bit safer was bolt a piece of angle iron to the stand and the engine. This way the tilting is well controlled with no sudden sphincter loosening moves. |
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