GT fenders:"If I had it to do over again, I'd....", For those of you who have put them on. |
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GT fenders:"If I had it to do over again, I'd....", For those of you who have put them on. |
Zeke |
Jan 10 2009, 04:18 PM
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#21
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Never left, but not right.... Group: Members Posts: 388 Joined: 26-January 03 From: Long Beach CA Member No.: 197 Region Association: None |
I've always thought that the best way to begin a project is to ask those who have been there before.
I have a 914 here and some GT fenders to weld on. Being somewhat of a panel beater and welder, I'm going to use the typical methods, Clecos for mock up, panel clamps for alignment and a MIG welder to tack. The only departure from what I've done in the past is that I'm going to butt weld the fenders using oxy/acetylene with a micro (or aircraft torch) and some ER70S-6 rod, which is very malleable post weld. I will dolly all the welds as I go before any grinding. If necessary, I will shrink as I go as well. From the best info I can find, this is how the factory did things like GT's and some of the 911 factory race cars. I usually go over my welds with a light on the back side looking for pinholes and braze them. As further insurance, I use lead over the seem as needed to finish. However, I know there are a couple of pitfalls to watch for and that's why I'm posting. I've seen some incredibly nice work here. I hope to be that best welds thread for 2009. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
charliew |
Jan 11 2009, 10:37 PM
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#22
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
I've seen the henrob demo and was impressed. The guy cut a very thin slot in 1/2 mild steel plate it seemed like a .030 gap, and then welded a beer can together. He then cut his name through 1/4 plate very fast. It heats in a very small area, he started a cut by putting the bright blue flame on the edge of the plate and as soon as it was molten he angled the torch down and started moving and making the cut. they are a little pricy.
I also have a stitch welder I bought 20 years ago but went to mig and never tried it. I like the mention of bracing the quarter panel behind the door to keep it the correct distance before cutting the wheel opening out. I probably wouldn't have thought of that. And the idea of measuring the openings before I remove them. Also someone pointed out the fronts could be moved forward or rearward to clear bigger od or wider tires a little better. With the front flare in the stock location it gets close, I think it was the front of the opening. Of course that means the rockers will need to be changed. Also using easy grind .023 wire. It is softer and more maleable than the 70 normal wire. |
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