How to make your CB carb linkage NOT SUCK! Options

[Aaron Cox]

Ok, I have tried lots of Carb Linkages over the years, and CB performance tends to be revered near the top end with regards to value and performance. There are a few other linkages out there that I like also...

So fast forward 5yrs, and the CB performance linkage has accrued some sucky slop from years of ball in hole wearing. Slop = bad, causing the carbs to not be synched during mid throttle....

Mind you this is the second or third crossbar replacement... even with grease, the hole gets ovaled and sloppy.

So, how do we fix this? How can we improve upon their design, BUT not go purchase ANOTHER linkage?

Well, simple my friends. A little machining, and parts selection and bobs your uncle!


Step 1, Purchase spare set of CB linkage base plates. Proceed to lop off the uprights near flush with the ridge for the air cleaner.



Step 2: Bring beer to a buddy, and he will let you use his mill. Or will even mill things for you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



Step 3: Order a bunch of parts from mcmaster.com, Heim Joints, Shoulder Bolts, and Springs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)... Followed by - Find out that mcmaster carr will send you homo pinkish red heim joints and laugh at yourself.

Step 4: Drill and Tap Base plates for heim Joints





Step 4: Measure 3x, and cut your new extra long cross bar to length, drill and tap ends to fit the shoulder bolts.



Step 5: Install stainless springs, Stainless Shoulder bolts, and use blue loctite on all threads.




Step 6: Install onto car, note what a great success it is, and drink copious amounts of beer to give yourself a pat on the back.




The setup works great.
It gets rid of the big extension lever on the offset version of the CB plates.... Gets rid of the worn ball and socket pivot, And self centers like the original linkage did.

Hindsight, I would order bearings instead of heim joints next time, and possibly order slightly stiffer springs, or possibly add tension springs on the other side of the heims to increase centering ability.

Enjoy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Aaron Cox]

Mark,

Are you suggesting that the drop links should be vertical or as colinear as possible with the carb shafts? The position can be adjusted very easy. (they have allen set screws to set the distance from the carb)

I might be min-interpreting what you are asking about.

Kevin,
So you deal with play (up to a half inch) when the motor isnt fully warmed up or super warm?
Swapping out springs would be easy.... but I like to account for the play, versus letting it flop around until warm.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Mark,

Are you suggesting that the drop links should be vertical or as colinear as possible with the carb shafts? The position can be adjusted very easy. (they have allen set screws to set the distance from the carb)
....

Yes, the droplinks should not push in/out on the end of the throttle shaft.
Think of setting the endplay on a crank, you don't want it push/pulling it in that way as it causes wear.

This is one of the reasons I also like the bellcrank type, BTW I make my own.