Researching 914 Ownership History & Condition Eval Pix, How to research original dealer & initial owner(s) of my `73 914-2 Options

[Tom_T]

>>>> ANDY, KENT & JIM - SEE MY POST #62 @ PAGE 4 FOR PRIOR PIX OF CONDITION, THEN THRU TO PAGE 7 -
- & I'VE ADDED SOME MORE CONDITION EVAL PIX TONIGHT STARTING ON PAGE 7 POST #132> - 7/5/22



OK - UPDATE - I've added some Pix at the end of this thread - Again....

The updated history findings, new info & pix start at this post:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1159791

More new Pix 1/21/10 starting here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1264140

Hi All,

I'm new to 914World's list, and am in the process of doing pre-restoration research for my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954, to help me decide how to go about restoring it, and how much time, money & effort to expend, & whether to do it the way I would have bought the car new - or only as originally sold. I'll determine its initial set-up by ordering a Porsche COA - but that apparently won't even tell me the original dealer who sold the car, let alone the original owner.

So I'm also looking for tips & other research avenues, since you cannot just order a CarFax/etc. for pre-81 cars, in order to try to recover it's original owners manual/service book/etc. & initial 3+ years' service records, history, etc.

...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ?


Ergo, I'm trying to close the gap of ownership history between its initial sale by the dealer in CA on 11/9/72 (which dealer?), and any/all owner(s) up to the time I purchased it in Feb.-Mar. 1976. {ed. - NOPE = Brain Fart - CA DMV sways it was 12/26/75} I've lost or misplaced my original loan and purchase documents from `76, and never had the original service records book either (which was not in the car when sold). It was also missing the owners manual, etc., as well as several key options which I had thought came "standard" with the 914-2.0 in `73 based upon period Motor Trend/etc. articles - i.e.: the full set of appearance group & performance group items. However, my recent on-line reseach indicates that they could come anywhere from "standard" to full Appearance & Performance Group options (at least on German/Euro models).

Was this also true for USA - & specifically California models - in early `73 production & sold in late `72? ...and what did the USA/California 914-2.0's typically/always come fit-out with?


I'm also seeking advice & opinions on how "true to original" to approach the restoration. I've put a summary of the car history, past work & current condition at the end below fyi. If buying it new, I would have ordered it "fully loaded" with all Appearance & Performance Group options (of which some were missing when I purchased it, as noted herein), and factory painted in either one of the "Alaska" or "Marathon"/etc. 914 met. blue colors, silver, black, or a factory custom color - such as the 911 "Anthracite Grey" met. (dk. grey met.).

And now - if/when it needs another engine rebuild, should I do it per "stock" 2.0L specs, or go for a FAT Performance, AutoAtlanta, etc. bore/stroke/compression "upbuilds" to 2.0-2.5L with more HP, on the original block/case number?


Contrary to my personal preferences above, it appears to have originally been either L80E "Light Ivory" (white) - or maybe a white undercoat/primer with a dealer custom color or color matched Gold or Bronze met. overpaint?? From recent research, I understand that it could have been either a factory "Custom" color from the Porsche, Audi or VW line, or a factory custom "Color Match." It appears to have the white under the intitial gold/bronze when I bought it, with my `76 color change to copper met., and then another to gunmetal or anthracite grey met. in `80. However, I understand that L80E "Light Ivory" was used as a base coat for the custom & color match factory &/or dealer paint jobs.

Is this true? ...and if so, then how would I tell whether the gold was a later repaint (maybe an accident?) or an "original" factory/dealer custom color?


Although it has/had sway bars & Bilstein struts, chrome bumbers & sail vinyl from the App. & Perf. Group pkgs. - it was missing the center console/gauges & fog lights, & Fuchs alloys when I bought it in `76 - instead it was sold with brushed aluminum Riviera mag wheels (I would have chosen the polished Fuchs or Rivieras if new). So it begs the question as to how original it really was when I purchased it? - i.e: did the prior owners remove the center console & fog lights (& maybe Fuchs wheels), or had they been vandalized/stolen & not replaced prior to its sale to me (which the COA should tell)? In any case - after checking out several earlier & lesser quality/condition potential 914's to purchase - my mechanic Hans Imports in Huntington Beach felt it was a strong car in `76 (he's Porsche factory trained on the 914's & still in HB), so I bought it and he's serviced it ever since (see summary at end).

Additionally, I'd had a couple of minor front-end "benders" over the 9.5 years it was my daily driver (neither were my fault), where the front faceplate/bumper & rubber bumper parts had to be replaced, & the front deck lid needed replaced/repaired & repainted - both of which precipitated color changes by me in 8/76 (Copper met.) & 5/80 (Dk. Grey met.) respecively. Then in 5/85 it was hit in a UCLA pkg. structure while I was in MBA classes, by a Sorority gal in her Honda Accord - both pushing in the rear end, and pushing the car forward 2 feet into a concrete column & pushing in the left front area & bending the retractable headlight assembly axle (no other mech. parts damage at either end - fortunately).

Since 5/85 it's been prep'd., covered & dry-stored on blocks in my garage to present, patiently awaiting my tender care! Unfortunately, I cannot get into the car at the moment to see the VIN & Mfg. date tag in the front trunk, Karman door tag for the paint & body code, engine & transaxle codes, etc. (which the COA will tell me anyway), due to my daughter's furniture stored on the other side of our garage while she's away at college. So at the present time, I don't have the open space needed to jack it off the blocks & roll it out, in order to look at the tags, take photos & work on it.

Having been sold in early Nov. `72 (& manufactured in May or June `72, if I recall the VIN plate in the front trunk correctly), and being #1954 914 in the `73 model year (not sure what number of 2.0 production it would be - but COA will show it). At #1954, it also would have the newer and better post #1000 door structure/design. Ergo, being an earlier part of the `73 model year production run, but late enough to have the kinks worked out - it MAY be worth going to "as originally sold" - if sufficiently unique.

However, it may NOT be worth that - NOT being a low milage pampered garage maven - having been a daily driver for its first 12.5 years with 191,000+ actual miles on it, & having the transaxle case changed for a used case in the12/83 transaxle rebuild, and having been either owner repainted (or custom? - see below) - possibly in an accident 11/72 - 2/76, and I've had it color changed 2 times myself since then, and in 2 minor fender benders, plus a semi-major crunching that put it into storage in `85 that I now need to repair. See the summary below...

Of note: I'm one who firmly believes that cars - like airplanes and other mechanical stuff - were meant to be DRIVEN (or flown/used) - and NOT rarely/non-driven, pampered & trailered to car shows, etc. So I would definitely be using this car as an "active" but "extra" 3rd vehicle for "pleasure use", at somewhat less than our other 3 cars' "daily driver" levels. However, since I home-office and my wife works within 2 miles, even our other 3 "classic" daily drivers only clock <5-7,000 miles per year. These include: an `88 VW Vanagon CamperGL ("Westfalia"), an `85 BMW 325e 2Dr. Coupe (1st year of 6 cyl. & only year with fuel efficient "eta" engine version) - both well kept/semi-restored/refurb., & a recently refurished/restored `88 Honda Civic Hatchback DX for our 2 college age kids' use (it will get the workhorse transportation duties with them).


So given the car's history & my preferences/use, does it really make that much sense to take it back to original, or go ahead and restore it as I would've wanted it - and how will each route affect its current & future "as restored" value - given its imperfect history?


Thanx for any help, opinions, advice, etc.!
Tom T
Orange, CA


Summary Car History & Key Points:

Ownership & Records:
Sold & 1st Registered in CA 11/9/72 - VIN 4732901954
I purchased it used in Orange County, CA in Feb-Mar/76 with 45,000 mi
As far as known, its always been a So Cal car for 36.33+ years
Present Engine, Transaxle & Body/Paint nos. currently inaccessible due to storage situation
(COA will give orig. nos. for comparison)
Orig. & any other prior owners unknown 11/72 - 2/76 (3.33 years)
I am 2nd (?) owner since early 1976, purchased with 45,000+/- mi (2-3/76)
ALL Records since 3/76 (but missing 11/72 - 2/76)

Useage & Storage:
Daily Driver 3/76 - 5/85 - approx. 146,470 mi (9.25 years) + 45,000 initial mi
Dry-stored covered & on blocks in SoCal Garage 5/85 to present (+/- 24 years & counting!)
Curr. indicated 174,342 mi - not correct due to repaired/reblt. Odo not set to true mi
Est. actual 191,470+/- mi, with the added est. mileage while Speedo/Odo was on fritz `81
(est. using milage at service records for avg. use during 6 mos. down & error at new odom. reset)

Major Mechanical & Body Work:
Last Body Resto & Color Change Repaint Apr/May `80 at 113,622
(it now needs repaint/restore @ 29+ yrs)
Engine Rebuilt in Oct `83 at 162,260e in same case/block (orig. # ??), Use = 29,210 mi
(engine "overhaul" to factory 2.0L specs in existing case/block - orig.??)
Transaxle Rebuilt in Nov `83 at 165,090e in used case (prob. won't match orig. #), Use = 26,380 mi
(transaxle "overhaul" to factory specs in "new" used case, due to excessive wear at seal points)
Other typical key mech. work & fixes done include:
Engine mounts, clutch cable tunnel reinf., fuel pump reloc. to front (ala `75-76 914s), battery tray "clean-up" & factory recall cover & pad (batts. never leaked/corroded due to my exclusive use of closed cell batteries), new Konis up front (from orig. Bilsteins), remanuf'd. EFI computer, clutch & throw-out bearings, CV joints, rear deck/trunk lid hinges, etc., & regular maint. per factory schedule while in use 3/76-12/85 (probably during 11/72-2/76 too, while under factory warranty).

Original Equipment & Options:
Has front & rear sway bars & had all 4 Bilsteins (Perf. Group?)
Has Chrome Bumpers, Vinyl Sail Trim, Padded Center Seat/Cover (App. Group?)
Did not have Center Console/Gauges, Fog Lights/Chrome Grill & Switch in 2-3/72
Has less common "Cinnamon" (tan) Interior & matching Tan factory loop carpet
Still has early-`70's Radio/8-Track when I purch. car 2-3/76 (orig.? - don't recall brand)
(I also still have many 8-tracks, but they probably won't play anymore)
Orig. Ext. Color was White or custom Gold/Bronze ?? (see above)

Owner Body & Paint Work:
Color changes: maybe Gold/Bronze pre-2/76 ??, Copper Met. 8/76, Dk. Grey Met. 5/80
Rust & Body Resto. 5/80 with last color change

Current Condition & Repair/Restoration Needed:
Curr. gneral cond.: has some small recurrent 1/4-3/8" rust bubbles on L/R cowl & at L/R sails-3/4 panels, some surface rusting on exposed underbody & engine compartment area (non-battery related), 2-3" tear to outside seat bolster on drivers seat (happens in every car I own!), worn older int. carpet at L&R floorpan areas (despite keeping Coco & Carpet mats 3/76-5/85), Last 1980 paint/resto job is "dead" with clear-coat failure/checking & needs repaint, & at 29+ years with age related deterioration - most/all rubber & other seals need replacement.

Last Accident curr. body damage due to 3rd Party hitting it in Pkg. Structure at UCLA 5/85 & pushed car front-end into conc. column, with front & rear end "damage to" items including:
(some parts may be repairable/restorable &/or replacable with "dead engine" or "roller" 914 body)
> Rear End: rear center body panel full width, back edge of rear trunk floor, lower fascia/valance (short), chrome rear bumper/faceplate & rubber bumper top/cap, L&R rear light clusters & lenses, rear deck/trunk lid, upper & lower latch mechanisms
> Front End: front center body panel, left fender-1/4 panel, left retractable headlight assy. (bent axle), lower fascia/valance (stock - not dam), chrome front bumper/faceplate & rubber bumper top/cap, Left `73/74 rubber bumber extension, front deck lid, upper & lower latch mechanisms
> Uni-Body / Suspension: check & adjust/straighten Uni-body as req'd., verify suspension cond. & repair/replace as necessary (will need to replace 29 yr old Bilsteins/Konis with 4 stock Bilsteins)

> Engine & Running Gear: Although stored with Engine & Transaxle Rebuilds at only 29k & 26k miles on them, it will need a thorough "going through" of all mechanicals to bring all systems up to safe & reliable running condition. If an engine rebuild is now required after a full check-out, then I may do it as stock 2.0L, or as a "built-up" 2.0-2.5L custom engine.

Addl. Items desired to add if appropriate:
Add Center Console & 3 Gauges,
Fog/Driving Lights w/ chrome grills & dash switch/wiring/breaker/etc. as neccessary,
Maybe 914-6 style elec. windscreen washer pump (although the orig. was so simple & effective, as long as you remember to check the spare!),
Maybe set of 5 OEM Fuchs alloy wheels (altho. I've always loved & preferred the Riviera style),
Replace to stock 4 Bilsteins as orig.,
Maybe do a "Built-up" higher performance/HP 2+L Engine (if/when rebuild needed again)
Other mechanical & condition updates & upgrades as appropriate




>> See NEW Pix & info. updates added starting at:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1159791


///////end

[swl]

Hey Tom - welcome aboard.

The Garage part of your story sounds way too familiar! When she gets back for the summer have HER clear out the garage. The nerve - taking up man space!

We have a whole lot of originality enthusiasts around here. I'm sure they will be by shortly. My understanding is that the early 73's were a bit of a mutt as they transitioned over to the new pattern. Parts were used up at different rates as they rushed to meet the demand in the US. A common marker of this group is vinyl on the A pillar. It does sound a little unusual to have a 2L without a console and fog lights. The Rivs of course were not an option. That was either a previous owner or a dealer scooping them to upsell a 1.7.

As to your restoration goals - of course you need to do what is right for you. Not the resale value. You've said you are a 'Drive it' kind of guy so I figure you would get more fun sinking your money into getting it on the road making it fun to drive. Given the bumps and bruises it has had it is probably not a candidate for a concours restoration.

Maybe set yourself some intermediate goals. As long as you don't hack into anything that would stop it from eventually being restored fully you keep your options open. Get in there and assess the rust situation and get it fixed. Get the fuel system, brakes, vacuum systems rebuilt. Fire her up. See where the journey takes you.

[Tom_T]

Hey Tom - welcome aboard.

The Garage part of your story sounds way too familiar! When she gets back for the summer have HER clear out the garage. The nerve - taking up man space!

We have a whole lot of originality enthusiasts around here. I'm sure they will be by shortly. My understanding is that the early 73's were a bit of a mutt as they transitioned over to the new pattern. Parts were used up at different rates as they rushed to meet the demand in the US. A common marker of this group is vinyl on the A pillar. It does sound a little unusual to have a 2L without a console and fog lights. The Rivs of course were not an option. That was either a previous owner or a dealer scooping them to upsell a 1.7.

As to your restoration goals - of course you need to do what is right for you. Not the resale value. You've said you are a 'Drive it' kind of guy so I figure you would get more fun sinking your money into getting it on the road making it fun to drive. Given the bumps and bruises it has had it is probably not a candidate for a concours restoration.

Maybe set yourself some intermediate goals. As long as you don't hack into anything that would stop it from eventually being restored fully you keep your options open. Get in there and assess the rust situation and get it fixed. Get the fuel system, brakes, vacuum systems rebuilt. Fire her up. See where the journey takes you.

Thanx for the supporting 'My preferences" options Steve.

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta was really pushing for a full bore bare metal resto back to factory color, and not in favor of my using a s"donor" 914 - of course he's selling the parts!

As my semi-DD, I'd probably still want to stay in the realm of the stock/optional or available Porsche/VW/Audi colors of the day, and pick a nice metallic blue which goes well with the tan/cinnamon interior, and add the "missing" App. & Perf. Grp. items.

I'm up on the rust situation, but need access to do the clean-out & lead where bubbled! Daughter just informed me she's not ready for the furniture until next year 2010 or ?? !!!! We already have 2 storage shed full on the property (city max is 1 of 150 sf! - oops!), so now I have to get the addition done the wife's been bugging me about to put it somewhere. Argh!

So maybe we'll clear it out this summer long enough to put it on rollers, then "repack" her stuff. At least then I can roll it out to work on it in the driveway ...it's always sunny in SoCal - right!

As for intermediate goals - I'm doing the research, getting a COA, looking for likely "donors" & collecting parts.

Hey - does anyone know how realistic it is to just straighten & re-chrome the F&R bumpers? ...likewise to straighten & refinish the F&R rubber bumper caps & F rubber "tit"? (I've alys called them "rubber baby buggy bumpers!)

My paint & body guy who did the last paint & body in `80 can tell me what's repairable for the other body panels, if I can get it over to him in HB.

Tom T
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[swl]

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta was really pushing for a full bore bare metal resto back to factory color, and not in favor of my using a s"donor" 914 - of course he's selling the parts!

Yes George is a parts hawker but he also has the 914 disease worse than just about anyone here. There is no doubt bare metal is the best way to go but damn it cost the bucks. And time.

I'm up on the rust situation, but need access to do the clean-out & lead where bubbled!

Surface rust is not a problem. It is the frame that you have to protect. Given the history of your car you probably don't have problems in the longs but you should still investigate. Take off the rockers and pull up the carpet on the inside of the longs.

Daughter just informed me she's not ready for the furniture until next year 2010 or ?? !!!! We already have 2 storage shed full on the property (city max is 1 of 150 sf! - oops!), so now I have to get the addition done the wife's been bugging me about to put it somewhere. Argh!
So maybe we'll clear it out this summer long enough to put it on rollers, then "repack" her stuff. At least then I can roll it out to work on it in the driveway ...it's always sunny in SoCal - right!

back a while - maybe a year or two ago. Someone posted a picture of his garage where he had framed a box over the front end of the car. I thought it was genious. You could move some of her stuff on top the box so you can roll the car out of the box to work on it.

Hey - does anyone know how realistic it is to just straighten & re-chrome the F&R bumpers? ...likewise to straighten & refinish the F&R rubber bumper caps & F rubber "tit"? (I've alys called them "rubber baby buggy bumpers!)

I had my rear bumper punched by a big old caddy way back when. They did a very exceptable job of straightening and refinishing but the chromer did a lousy job. Within a few years the rust started bubbling in behind and the chrome peeled. It all depends on the skill of the body man/chromer. Rubber on the other hand doesn't have many success stories. You might be better off watching ebay or finding the right donor car.