Researching 914 Ownership History & Condition Eval Pix, How to research original dealer & initial owner(s) of my `73 914-2 |
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Researching 914 Ownership History & Condition Eval Pix, How to research original dealer & initial owner(s) of my `73 914-2 |
Tom_T |
Mar 20 2009, 09:23 PM
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#1
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,320 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
>>>> ANDY, KENT & JIM - SEE MY POST #62 @ PAGE 4 FOR PRIOR PIX OF CONDITION, THEN THRU TO PAGE 7 -
- & I'VE ADDED SOME MORE CONDITION EVAL PIX TONIGHT STARTING ON PAGE 7 POST #132> - 7/5/22 OK - UPDATE - I've added some Pix at the end of this thread - Again.... The updated history findings, new info & pix start at this post: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1159791 More new Pix 1/21/10 starting here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1264140 Hi All, I'm new to 914World's list, and am in the process of doing pre-restoration research for my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954, to help me decide how to go about restoring it, and how much time, money & effort to expend, & whether to do it the way I would have bought the car new - or only as originally sold. I'll determine its initial set-up by ordering a Porsche COA - but that apparently won't even tell me the original dealer who sold the car, let alone the original owner. So I'm also looking for tips & other research avenues, since you cannot just order a CarFax/etc. for pre-81 cars, in order to try to recover it's original owners manual/service book/etc. & initial 3+ years' service records, history, etc. ...and a very long shot - does anybody per chance happen to have any information on my `73 914-2.0 - VIN 4732901954 ? Ergo, I'm trying to close the gap of ownership history between its initial sale by the dealer in CA on 11/9/72 (which dealer?), and any/all owner(s) up to the time I purchased it in Feb.-Mar. 1976. {ed. - NOPE = Brain Fart - CA DMV sways it was 12/26/75} I've lost or misplaced my original loan and purchase documents from `76, and never had the original service records book either (which was not in the car when sold). It was also missing the owners manual, etc., as well as several key options which I had thought came "standard" with the 914-2.0 in `73 based upon period Motor Trend/etc. articles - i.e.: the full set of appearance group & performance group items. However, my recent on-line reseach indicates that they could come anywhere from "standard" to full Appearance & Performance Group options (at least on German/Euro models). Was this also true for USA - & specifically California models - in early `73 production & sold in late `72? ...and what did the USA/California 914-2.0's typically/always come fit-out with? I'm also seeking advice & opinions on how "true to original" to approach the restoration. I've put a summary of the car history, past work & current condition at the end below fyi. If buying it new, I would have ordered it "fully loaded" with all Appearance & Performance Group options (of which some were missing when I purchased it, as noted herein), and factory painted in either one of the "Alaska" or "Marathon"/etc. 914 met. blue colors, silver, black, or a factory custom color - such as the 911 "Anthracite Grey" met. (dk. grey met.). And now - if/when it needs another engine rebuild, should I do it per "stock" 2.0L specs, or go for a FAT Performance, AutoAtlanta, etc. bore/stroke/compression "upbuilds" to 2.0-2.5L with more HP, on the original block/case number? Contrary to my personal preferences above, it appears to have originally been either L80E "Light Ivory" (white) - or maybe a white undercoat/primer with a dealer custom color or color matched Gold or Bronze met. overpaint?? From recent research, I understand that it could have been either a factory "Custom" color from the Porsche, Audi or VW line, or a factory custom "Color Match." It appears to have the white under the intitial gold/bronze when I bought it, with my `76 color change to copper met., and then another to gunmetal or anthracite grey met. in `80. However, I understand that L80E "Light Ivory" was used as a base coat for the custom & color match factory &/or dealer paint jobs. Is this true? ...and if so, then how would I tell whether the gold was a later repaint (maybe an accident?) or an "original" factory/dealer custom color? Although it has/had sway bars & Bilstein struts, chrome bumbers & sail vinyl from the App. & Perf. Group pkgs. - it was missing the center console/gauges & fog lights, & Fuchs alloys when I bought it in `76 - instead it was sold with brushed aluminum Riviera mag wheels (I would have chosen the polished Fuchs or Rivieras if new). So it begs the question as to how original it really was when I purchased it? - i.e: did the prior owners remove the center console & fog lights (& maybe Fuchs wheels), or had they been vandalized/stolen & not replaced prior to its sale to me (which the COA should tell)? In any case - after checking out several earlier & lesser quality/condition potential 914's to purchase - my mechanic Hans Imports in Huntington Beach felt it was a strong car in `76 (he's Porsche factory trained on the 914's & still in HB), so I bought it and he's serviced it ever since (see summary at end). Additionally, I'd had a couple of minor front-end "benders" over the 9.5 years it was my daily driver (neither were my fault), where the front faceplate/bumper & rubber bumper parts had to be replaced, & the front deck lid needed replaced/repaired & repainted - both of which precipitated color changes by me in 8/76 (Copper met.) & 5/80 (Dk. Grey met.) respecively. Then in 5/85 it was hit in a UCLA pkg. structure while I was in MBA classes, by a Sorority gal in her Honda Accord - both pushing in the rear end, and pushing the car forward 2 feet into a concrete column & pushing in the left front area & bending the retractable headlight assembly axle (no other mech. parts damage at either end - fortunately). Since 5/85 it's been prep'd., covered & dry-stored on blocks in my garage to present, patiently awaiting my tender care! Unfortunately, I cannot get into the car at the moment to see the VIN & Mfg. date tag in the front trunk, Karman door tag for the paint & body code, engine & transaxle codes, etc. (which the COA will tell me anyway), due to my daughter's furniture stored on the other side of our garage while she's away at college. So at the present time, I don't have the open space needed to jack it off the blocks & roll it out, in order to look at the tags, take photos & work on it. Having been sold in early Nov. `72 (& manufactured in May or June `72, if I recall the VIN plate in the front trunk correctly), and being #1954 914 in the `73 model year (not sure what number of 2.0 production it would be - but COA will show it). At #1954, it also would have the newer and better post #1000 door structure/design. Ergo, being an earlier part of the `73 model year production run, but late enough to have the kinks worked out - it MAY be worth going to "as originally sold" - if sufficiently unique. However, it may NOT be worth that - NOT being a low milage pampered garage maven - having been a daily driver for its first 12.5 years with 191,000+ actual miles on it, & having the transaxle case changed for a used case in the12/83 transaxle rebuild, and having been either owner repainted (or custom? - see below) - possibly in an accident 11/72 - 2/76, and I've had it color changed 2 times myself since then, and in 2 minor fender benders, plus a semi-major crunching that put it into storage in `85 that I now need to repair. See the summary below... Of note: I'm one who firmly believes that cars - like airplanes and other mechanical stuff - were meant to be DRIVEN (or flown/used) - and NOT rarely/non-driven, pampered & trailered to car shows, etc. So I would definitely be using this car as an "active" but "extra" 3rd vehicle for "pleasure use", at somewhat less than our other 3 cars' "daily driver" levels. However, since I home-office and my wife works within 2 miles, even our other 3 "classic" daily drivers only clock <5-7,000 miles per year. These include: an `88 VW Vanagon CamperGL ("Westfalia"), an `85 BMW 325e 2Dr. Coupe (1st year of 6 cyl. & only year with fuel efficient "eta" engine version) - both well kept/semi-restored/refurb., & a recently refurished/restored `88 Honda Civic Hatchback DX for our 2 college age kids' use (it will get the workhorse transportation duties with them). So given the car's history & my preferences/use, does it really make that much sense to take it back to original, or go ahead and restore it as I would've wanted it - and how will each route affect its current & future "as restored" value - given its imperfect history? Thanx for any help, opinions, advice, etc.! Tom T Orange, CA Summary Car History & Key Points: Ownership & Records: Sold & 1st Registered in CA 11/9/72 - VIN 4732901954 I purchased it used in Orange County, CA in Feb-Mar/76 with 45,000 mi As far as known, its always been a So Cal car for 36.33+ years Present Engine, Transaxle & Body/Paint nos. currently inaccessible due to storage situation (COA will give orig. nos. for comparison) Orig. & any other prior owners unknown 11/72 - 2/76 (3.33 years) I am 2nd (?) owner since early 1976, purchased with 45,000+/- mi (2-3/76) ALL Records since 3/76 (but missing 11/72 - 2/76) Useage & Storage: Daily Driver 3/76 - 5/85 - approx. 146,470 mi (9.25 years) + 45,000 initial mi Dry-stored covered & on blocks in SoCal Garage 5/85 to present (+/- 24 years & counting!) Curr. indicated 174,342 mi - not correct due to repaired/reblt. Odo not set to true mi Est. actual 191,470+/- mi, with the added est. mileage while Speedo/Odo was on fritz `81 (est. using milage at service records for avg. use during 6 mos. down & error at new odom. reset) Major Mechanical & Body Work: Last Body Resto & Color Change Repaint Apr/May `80 at 113,622 (it now needs repaint/restore @ 29+ yrs) Engine Rebuilt in Oct `83 at 162,260e in same case/block (orig. # ??), Use = 29,210 mi (engine "overhaul" to factory 2.0L specs in existing case/block - orig.??) Transaxle Rebuilt in Nov `83 at 165,090e in used case (prob. won't match orig. #), Use = 26,380 mi (transaxle "overhaul" to factory specs in "new" used case, due to excessive wear at seal points) Other typical key mech. work & fixes done include: Engine mounts, clutch cable tunnel reinf., fuel pump reloc. to front (ala `75-76 914s), battery tray "clean-up" & factory recall cover & pad (batts. never leaked/corroded due to my exclusive use of closed cell batteries), new Konis up front (from orig. Bilsteins), remanuf'd. EFI computer, clutch & throw-out bearings, CV joints, rear deck/trunk lid hinges, etc., & regular maint. per factory schedule while in use 3/76-12/85 (probably during 11/72-2/76 too, while under factory warranty). Original Equipment & Options: Has front & rear sway bars & had all 4 Bilsteins (Perf. Group?) Has Chrome Bumpers, Vinyl Sail Trim, Padded Center Seat/Cover (App. Group?) Did not have Center Console/Gauges, Fog Lights/Chrome Grill & Switch in 2-3/72 Has less common "Cinnamon" (tan) Interior & matching Tan factory loop carpet Still has early-`70's Radio/8-Track when I purch. car 2-3/76 (orig.? - don't recall brand) (I also still have many 8-tracks, but they probably won't play anymore) Orig. Ext. Color was White or custom Gold/Bronze ?? (see above) Owner Body & Paint Work: Color changes: maybe Gold/Bronze pre-2/76 ??, Copper Met. 8/76, Dk. Grey Met. 5/80 Rust & Body Resto. 5/80 with last color change Current Condition & Repair/Restoration Needed: Curr. gneral cond.: has some small recurrent 1/4-3/8" rust bubbles on L/R cowl & at L/R sails-3/4 panels, some surface rusting on exposed underbody & engine compartment area (non-battery related), 2-3" tear to outside seat bolster on drivers seat (happens in every car I own!), worn older int. carpet at L&R floorpan areas (despite keeping Coco & Carpet mats 3/76-5/85), Last 1980 paint/resto job is "dead" with clear-coat failure/checking & needs repaint, & at 29+ years with age related deterioration - most/all rubber & other seals need replacement. Last Accident curr. body damage due to 3rd Party hitting it in Pkg. Structure at UCLA 5/85 & pushed car front-end into conc. column, with front & rear end "damage to" items including: (some parts may be repairable/restorable &/or replacable with "dead engine" or "roller" 914 body) > Rear End: rear center body panel full width, back edge of rear trunk floor, lower fascia/valance (short), chrome rear bumper/faceplate & rubber bumper top/cap, L&R rear light clusters & lenses, rear deck/trunk lid, upper & lower latch mechanisms > Front End: front center body panel, left fender-1/4 panel, left retractable headlight assy. (bent axle), lower fascia/valance (stock - not dam), chrome front bumper/faceplate & rubber bumper top/cap, Left `73/74 rubber bumber extension, front deck lid, upper & lower latch mechanisms > Uni-Body / Suspension: check & adjust/straighten Uni-body as req'd., verify suspension cond. & repair/replace as necessary (will need to replace 29 yr old Bilsteins/Konis with 4 stock Bilsteins) > Engine & Running Gear: Although stored with Engine & Transaxle Rebuilds at only 29k & 26k miles on them, it will need a thorough "going through" of all mechanicals to bring all systems up to safe & reliable running condition. If an engine rebuild is now required after a full check-out, then I may do it as stock 2.0L, or as a "built-up" 2.0-2.5L custom engine. Addl. Items desired to add if appropriate: Add Center Console & 3 Gauges, Fog/Driving Lights w/ chrome grills & dash switch/wiring/breaker/etc. as neccessary, Maybe 914-6 style elec. windscreen washer pump (although the orig. was so simple & effective, as long as you remember to check the spare!), Maybe set of 5 OEM Fuchs alloy wheels (altho. I've always loved & preferred the Riviera style), Replace to stock 4 Bilsteins as orig., Maybe do a "Built-up" higher performance/HP 2+L Engine (if/when rebuild needed again) Other mechanical & condition updates & upgrades as appropriate >> See NEW Pix & info. updates added starting at: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1159791 ///////end |
Dave_Darling |
Apr 21 2009, 08:26 AM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,060 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
I know that I wouldn't want to be doing that repair work. But then, I can't do bodywork.
WRT the spares: It was evidently pretty common for dealers to replace the spare alloy wheel with a steelie. If they did that to four cars, they could then sell the alloys as a full set, or possibly swap them onto a car that was delivered withs steel wheels. Sometimes people wanted the Rivs instead of the Porsche alloys (Pedrini, Mahle, Fuchs). The dealer would usually be happy to oblige (while charging for it of course!). --DD |
Tom_T |
Apr 21 2009, 12:21 PM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,320 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
I know that I wouldn't want to be doing that repair work. But then, I can't do bodywork. WRT the spares: It was evidently pretty common for dealers to replace the spare alloy wheel with a steelie. If they did that to four cars, they could then sell the alloys as a full set, or possibly swap them onto a car that was delivered withs steel wheels. Sometimes people wanted the Rivs instead of the Porsche alloys (Pedrini, Mahle, Fuchs). The dealer would usually be happy to oblige (while charging for it of course!). --DD So I take it I should look for 5 Fuchs 2.0 Alloys then? ...yeah, then they could throw those other "steelies" into yet more "stripped 2.0's"! BTW - I'm only going to do some of the more basic bodywork, rust work & maybe stripping & POR15 & priming, then turn it & the parts/parts car to the Paint & Body, Bumper/Re-chrome & unibody rack pro's! I can do maybe all but the F&R damage, & bottom & battery stand rust items - unless my buddy still has his welder - in which case we could take on the latter 2 items also. I've done some less serious body work than the F&R above. A couple of weeks ago we finished up an inherited 88 Honda Civic for my kids use, doing minor chips, dings & rust areas, plus leading & bondo-ing the LF fender damage at the pic below. We got it to primer stage, then took it to MAACO for a quick urethane paint job, which we hope will last the kids 4-8+ years. That was a "practice car" for the 914 by my son & myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) `88 HONDA CIVIC HATCHBACK "PRACTICE CAR" FOR MY UPCOMING `73 914-2.0 PROJECT completed April `09 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) next...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) |
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