Over Heating Starter, won't start after a commute |
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Over Heating Starter, won't start after a commute |
yellow914 |
Apr 22 2009, 05:51 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 28-March 08 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 8,861 Region Association: Northern California |
Starter is apparently over heating during my commute (which it didn't do for the past year)
(1).What's the cause? (yes I know heat...why I odda (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) ) (2). Is the only cure a new starter?......or...? (3). I also have an interesting idle also...the "warmer" the car the lower the idle? Help Por-favor : (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
Tom |
May 1 2009, 01:40 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Well, this issue sure comes up a lot. I know that when it starts happening to your car, there is no "easy" fix. When the car is new, the circuit works just fine. As the wires, connections, and electrical components age, the ability of them to carry current and work correctly starts to fail. The best way to fix this problem would be to replace those electrical components with new. We tend to try to get by as cheap as possible, so that will not be an option for most of us.
Her is a cheap fix that I used for a couple of years on a 70 that I had many years ago. It was still working when I sold the car and yes, I told the buyer what the circuit was for. I went down and bought an old "push to start" switch like the 49 Fords had on the dash. I drilled a hole large enough ( 1/2 inch or so) in the rear engine tin on the drivers side near the starter. Mounted the switch there with the push button side in the engine compartment. Hooked up a 14 ga. wire from the large solenoid terminal where the battery cable is to one side of the switch. the other side of the switch ( 14 ga wire again ) went to the other spade terminal where the yellow wire goes. Any time the car was too warm to start from the ignition switch, all I had to do was put it in neutral - key on - hand brake up - open engine lid - push starter button - engine starts - close engine lid. I know it masks the true problem of too many contacts and connections in the starting circuit, but it does work, and it's not too expensive of a temp fix. Especially if the "hot no-start" problem happens to you only infrequently, and it beats the heck out of getting under the car to jump the connections. Tom |
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