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tracks914 |
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#1
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Canadian Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,083 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Timmins, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 153 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Rear. Measurements are differences across the 18" wheels from plumb.
Passenger side I have .700" + camber. Sticks out at the top. No shims left to remove. Driver side I have .230" - camber with 2 small shims installed. I can put more shims in the DS to bring it to 0 but how do I remove material to get the PS down to 0? The car was rotisserie restored but the suspension points appeared good and were not touched. (Doesn't mean the car was "right" before I bought it) What am I missing here? |
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charliew |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 ![]() |
Before you move the hole make sure where you want the toe and that the toe is still in a useable range. The good thing is the outside piece is easily replaceable. I bet the arm is bent. Someone tried to jack my car up on the bottom of the arm and put a wrinkle in it but the bent arms I have seen are usually showing too much neg camber. Moving the hole up you may run out of room at the top. The arm has a flange on it where the bushing goes in, that is already real close to the top of the bracket.
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