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> Home Alignment Part 2, Still roughing it in but not looking good
tracks914
post Jul 2 2009, 04:33 PM
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Rear. Measurements are differences across the 18" wheels from plumb.

Passenger side I have .700" + camber. Sticks out at the top. No shims left to remove.
Driver side I have .230" - camber with 2 small shims installed.

I can put more shims in the DS to bring it to 0 but how do I remove material to get the PS down to 0?

The car was rotisserie restored but the suspension points appeared good and were not touched. (Doesn't mean the car was "right" before I bought it)

What am I missing here?
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tracks914
post Jul 3 2009, 08:12 PM
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2000 Boxster wheels. Metal only and using the depth part of a dial vernier to get accurate readings to the string.

I thought about moving the hole on the outside ear, weld a couple of washers on either side and re-drill higher but that's only if the trailing arm option doesn't work.
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r_towle
post Jul 3 2009, 10:33 PM
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QUOTE(tracks914 @ Jul 3 2009, 10:12 PM) *

2000 Boxster wheels. Metal only and using the depth part of a dial vernier to get accurate readings to the string.

I thought about moving the hole on the outside ear, weld a couple of washers on either side and re-drill higher but that's only if the trailing arm option doesn't work.

So,
How did you get these wheels to bolt on?
I am asking specific questions.

Do you use a spacer?
Is the wheel straight? how do you know for sure?
Try this...jack up that wheel...spin it...(I use a milk crate for this) tape a pencil to a milk crate and while the wheel is spinning...slowly slide the pencil towards the wheel...if its warped, you will hear chirp chirp chirp as you start contacting the wheel. if its straight...it will hit the whole wheel all at once.
Go very slow...creap in to it.

Rich
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