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jhadler |
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#1
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Long term tinkerer... ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,879 Joined: 7-April 03 From: Lyons, CO Member No.: 529 ![]() |
Hey all,
Starting a new thread here... I'd like to get some advice please. Here's the scoop: New motor. 9:1 2056 w/ceramic coated euro race headers. Stock D-jet and stock ignition. Running on Brad Penn break-in oil. Two shake down drives for break-in (varying rpm and load, staying out of WOT and mostly below 4k rpm), and they both have the same basic symptoms. The oil temps get too high and idle turns to cr*p. Drive one: 75 degree ambient, 40 minutes driving. head temps vary between 250-275, never higher than 300. Oil temps climbed to 230, and once hot won't idle worth a damn. - backed off ignition advance to stock, was running at 30 degrees. Capped vacuum retard hose, seemed to idle better without. (mistake?) Drive two: 85 degree ambient, 25 minutes driving. Head temps vary between 250-300, never higher. Oil temp went to 250. Hot idle just plain sucked. I know I need to get a wideband on there to figure out what the mixture is doing, but if the mixture was going lean, I'd expect to see excessive head temps right? Can the oil temp simply be a tight motor on light oil? It doesn't seem right though. Help? Advice? Suggestions? Last thing I want to do is lunch this motor. -Josh2 |
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byndbad914 |
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#2
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shoehorn and some butter - it fits ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 23-January 06 From: Broomfield, CO Member No.: 5,463 Region Association: None ![]() |
Jake is spot on as you would expect, you need to advance the timing back up. Retarding does in fact heat oil up, water if you had a water cooled engine will heat up too. And 250deg oil temps on a hot day and a new motor just breaking in seems completely reasonable to me. The BP oil is good stuff too and will handle that temp no problem.
As for a vacuum retard, if you are talking about the vacuum line to the "can" on the distributor, that should be a vacuum advance. It is possible I guess that when you had it hooked up, and had extra overall advance, that at idle you had a lot of initial advance and the engine doesn't like it. Just a guess but would surprise me. Frankly on many a drag race motor (tho' not a VW engine so a different animal maybe) we took the advance springs completely out of the distributor and just set timing to be max all the time - point is they idled just fine with 36deg of timing, even at 1K rpm, so dunno why your car would idle differently with the advance plugged in unless your diaphragm is leaking and you created a vacuum leak plugging into it. My race car has around 18-20 deg of idle advance and 36deg overall for another example of high advance at idle working fine. |
orange914 |
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#3
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http://5starmediaworks.com/index.html ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,371 Joined: 26-March 05 From: Ceres, California Member No.: 3,818 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
you need to advance the timing back up. Retarding does in fact heat oil up, water if you had a water cooled engine will heat up too. how would retarded timing heat oil temps?, not to say it can't it just doesn't make sense to me. retarded (late) timing does in fact run engine temps. down. the more retarded the more heat/energy is blown out the exhaust. advance (early) timing drives temps up, as the combustion is in the cyl. longer. too much advance timing brings n.o.x. emmisions showing the direct corilation to the cyl. temps. going up over 2500*... even before preignition. the reson i earlier asked if you had a 30mm h.v. oil pump was the oil heat issue. there are many threads on the extra pressure acually overideing the bypass, that consequentley bypasses the oil cooler, raising oil temp'.s. jake correct me if i'm wrong, but i've read you acually steer away from 30mm? cylinder temp.'s normal, oil temps. high... probably running break in oil on a tight new engine under 85* normal driving. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) let us know your findings mike |
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