Let's save another 914, and get it decent., Probably need advice from you old school 914 folk Options

[ghuff]

So here is the rust on this one. It's a 75 cali car it's entire life.

Get the worst over to begin. Let us take a look at the hell hole. It was solid, and even passed teh screwdriver/hammer test....

*until* it soaked in metal ready a while... then the screwdriver test started picking out giant holes which you see here. It is still soaking, and has been on/off for days not to eat away more to see what metal is truly left. Next step is a grinder or non-hand tool of sorts to break deep into the pitting and see what truly is through.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img196.imageshack.us-179-1269644411.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img197.imageshack.us-179-1269644412.2.jpg)

[FourBlades]

You might want to paint over the clean metal with eastwood rust encapsulator rather than galvanizing compound. You can't paint over the galvanizing compound
but you can paint over the eastwood stuff. You need to remove the metal ready
using a wet sponge or cloth and dry it before painting it. You don't want to leave
the metal ready on there or it can keep eating the metal.

I would think carefully about removing the cross brace and center tunnel. It will
take 150 spot welds to drill, and probably get somewhat bent up in the process.
If your tunnel is really crusty with rust maybe, but otherwise I would soak it with
metal ready, rinse it and spray rust encapsulator.

Your car looks pretty well preserved, it will be a really nice one when you get
it done.

John

[ghuff]

You might want to paint over the clean metal with eastwood rust encapsulator rather than galvanizing compound. You can't paint over the galvanizing compound
but you can paint over the eastwood stuff. You need to remove the metal ready
using a wet sponge or cloth and dry it before painting it. You don't want to leave
the metal ready on there or it can keep eating the metal.

I would think carefully about removing the cross brace and center tunnel. It will
take 150 spot welds to drill, and probably get somewhat bent up in the process.
If your tunnel is really crusty with rust maybe, but otherwise I would soak it with
metal ready, rinse it and spray rust encapsulator.

Your car looks pretty well preserved, it will be a really nice one when you get
it done.

John

The galvanizing compound is just temporary to keep rust and moisture away while I work the metal and do other things.

I will be stripping it clean again before por 15. I know it's twice the work but really I could not let that rust keep going without doing something. Who knows in a few months it could have been a few holes? These things turn to dust heh.

I just cleaned a bunch of corrosion of the harness to relay board connectors and filled them with ox-gard working them on/off a few times to clean the terminals the best I could. Same to the ECU harness/connector and about to do the same to all of the engine sensors.

Going to pull apart the distributor next and see if I can get it not to stick. Tomorrow morning if all goes well I can start it and then work on the fuel level sender and change out some rubber fuel lines here and there.

The 1975/75 l-jet cars have a fuel line that rubs against the mounting sheetmetal for the airbox. This has to be factory ran fuel line as well. No wonder why these things burn up all the time. I looked at PET and the fuel line routing looked as bad as my 2001 Golf with various charcoal lines and things about.

I can't wait to get the fuel tank out to swap those lines and put a new filter on.

More minor stuff. I need to remove more of the jack boxes and primer back over that before friday's trip.

Friday is a road trip that is 130 miles just over the 125 mile limit for my hagerty emergency roadside assistance towing coverage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)