Squeeling and grinding noise found the problem, I almost had a heart attack when my new engine shut down Options

[TC 914-8]

Let me start by saying it wasn't a heart attack but a sh_t hemorage. I heard a squeeling grinding noise last week while taking a cruse to town. I quickly shut down the new enging and checked it out. Upon restart it was a sick high pitch metal to metal squeel and garbage disposal grinding noise. Then it stopped!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
All was well oil press, temp etc. So I finished my drive and came home.

Today I took it out for a quick speed run which I video taped and will post later (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) .
Then 2 seconds after I shut the video camera off squeel, grind and the engine came to a stop. This is on a freshly rebuild $3k or better with only 300mi if that. First thing I think is I spun a bearing, Timing chain came off and lunched, burned a hole in a piston, broke a crank, lifter jammed ......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
I look under the car and see a small drip coming off the remote water pump. AH, I prayed, being sunday of course, I hope it's the water pump. I quickly unbolt and loosen the belt, sure as sh-t the pump is seized. WooHoo, happy day.

So now I just have to find out what pump Rod Simpson used back in the 90's.
Here are pictures of the failed impeller and chewed up housing. Note the two impeller blades in the bottom of the first pict. one was jammed into the outlet pipe, hard.

BTW what is your best guess that would cause this??

[TC 914-8]

Thanks Mark Thanks Troy,
I think I remember reading a Buick part # somewhere in my paperwork. Ill check A-1 in Sequim first, They seem to have everything I need, if not they can get it.

I'm leaning toward cavitation creating a " negavitive " pressure on the inlet of the pump, causing the impeller blades to "flex" when spun past the design. Like a piece of wire if you flex it too much it will eventually break.

[904svo]

Thanks Mark Thanks Troy,
I think I remember reading a Buick part # somewhere in my paperwork. Ill check A-1 in Sequim first, They seem to have everything I need, if not they can get it.

I'm leaning toward cavitation creating a " negavitive " pressure on the inlet of the pump, causing the impeller blades to "flex" when spun past the design. Like a piece of wire if you flex it too much it will eventually break.

It's cavitation problem as long as the water pump is higher than the water level
in the radiator it will cavitate.