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nycchef |
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mechanical moron ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 952 Joined: 28-November 05 From: new york city n.y. Member No.: 5,202 Region Association: None ![]() |
hi all. getting ready to start rebuilding the sloppy front end on my 73 2.0. seems straight forward enough, so i figure it should only take 4 or 5 months to complete.
i am ordering lemfoerder turbo tie rods and ball joints, then a pair of rebuilt calipers from eric shea. what type of front shocks should i buy. kyb or bilstein? boge may be out of my budget. what are your thoughts. also what bushings, nuts, spacers or other little crap should i get in house to avoid the weeks of waiting in shipping hell for a bolt or pin i may have missed? this is a street car. no racing or auto cross. thanks in advance for all the dumbass questions this project will no doubt create (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) |
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tat2dphreak |
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stoya, stoya, stoya ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
thickness my man (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) it's all about thickness.
I think 8mm is the minimum in-spec thickness, but check your haynes manual. then put a caliper gauge on it and you will see. FWIW, I think you can only get about 1-2 cuts(getting your rotor turned) before it's out of spec... the wheel bearings are cheap(about 15 per side), but kind of a pain, messy... I got a bearing grease press from a FLAPS, it made the job MUCH easier and cleaner... worth the $10 investment. rotors are more, about $50 per side but I don't skimp on brake parts if I can help it. there's NO reason to not replace the bearings, ever. but if the rotors are close, you may as well get them too... if the rotors are good, then don't worry about it. |
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