Valve Adjustment help needed - Vielen dank!, She's running! Thanks for all the help! |
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Valve Adjustment help needed - Vielen dank!, She's running! Thanks for all the help! |
stephenaki |
Oct 11 2009, 03:37 AM
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#1
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Can I get this one dad?? Group: Members Posts: 1,183 Joined: 11-August 07 From: Palmetto, FL Member No.: 7,987 Region Association: None |
OK, so I have searched and can't find a thread related to my situation, maybe because people are smarter and more experienced than me. The question is pretty much spelled out in the topic description.
The crank, rods, piston and cylinders are 2.0, the heads are machined 1.7, what measurement do I use for the valve adjustment? 1.7 or 2.0? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I am leaning towards 1.7 but would like to get an educated opinion from the group. Help please, I want to re-do the valve adjustment before I mess with anything else. |
Cevan |
Oct 13 2009, 03:10 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 |
Just another option: What I did when I had the motor out was to make a small window in the rear engine tin so I could see the notch in the flywheel. Then, I painted a corresponding mark on the flywheel 180 degrees around thru the small window in the bottow of the transaxle. Now I can spin the motor precisely 180 degrees at a time from either above or below the car and adjust the valves in the firing order sequence.
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Cap'n Krusty |
Oct 13 2009, 03:44 PM
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#3
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Just another option: What I did when I had the motor out was to make a small window in the rear engine tin so I could see the notch in the flywheel. Then, I painted a corresponding mark on the flywheel 180 degrees around thru the small window in the bottom of the transaxle. Now I can spin the motor precisely 180 degrees at a time from either above or below the car and adjust the valves in the firing order sequence. That's all very well, but why? Using my method, which results in more accurate clearances, requires only the Mk 1 eyeball and a feeler gauge. You NEVER have to know what cylinder it's "on". With VERY little practice, bumping the engine over with a starter button (or even jumping the terminals with an old screwdriver) results in the engine always stopping in "just the right" place. The Cap'n |
Cevan |
Oct 13 2009, 06:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 |
Just another option: What I did when I had the motor out was to make a small window in the rear engine tin so I could see the notch in the flywheel. Then, I painted a corresponding mark on the flywheel 180 degrees around thru the small window in the bottom of the transaxle. Now I can spin the motor precisely 180 degrees at a time from either above or below the car and adjust the valves in the firing order sequence. That's all very well, but why? Using my method, which results in more accurate clearances, requires only the Mk 1 eyeball and a feeler gauge. You NEVER have to know what cylinder it's "on". With VERY little practice, bumping the engine over with a starter button (or even jumping the terminals with an old screwdriver) results in the engine always stopping in "just the right" place. The Cap'n Because it's easy. And I don't wear out my starter. And there's nothing wrong with doing it my way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
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